Now the fun part starts.
My son came by this AM and we mounted the hydro in the frame.
My son came by this AM and we mounted the hydro in the frame.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Dave S. 149/DanCo loader rehab project.
- Thread starter dschwandt
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Got the front axle back from the machine shop and installed the 1" spindles along with the needle bearings and thrust washers. Hoping this will lighten the load when it comes to steering effort.
I think I will leave the axle black, what say you guys?
I think I will leave the axle black, what say you guys?
mfrade
Well-known member
Looks like it came out great David, the concept worked on Model "A"s so it should be a winner on a cub cadet. It might be a great addition to my 169, it takes 2 hands to muscle it around now.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Yellow would be correct for a 149 front axle, but it's your tractor...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
David - hmm, I'd paint it black if you paint the engine black.
Installed the relined brake pads this morning.
Used the matl's from McMaster Carr along with new stainless slider rods.
Be advised if you do this, the thinnest mat'l you can get from M/C is 3/16", 1/16" of which will have to be sanded off to allow for clearance in the caliper ass'y.
The wear side was masked off before painting.
Used the matl's from McMaster Carr along with new stainless slider rods.
Be advised if you do this, the thinnest mat'l you can get from M/C is 3/16", 1/16" of which will have to be sanded off to allow for clearance in the caliper ass'y.
The wear side was masked off before painting.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Hey David - any chance you're opening a brake pad re-lining business? Maybe on an exchange basis?
Dream on Harry!!
I got the tower painted today also.
I got the tower painted today also.
David-
It sounds like you went through exactly what I did when relining some brake pads. I use a 4"x36" bench top belt sander with different grit belts. I also use it for resurfacing PTOs and clutch pressure plates. I assume you bought one of the 7-1/2"x7-1/2" sheets of the brake material so now you should have enough for another tractor. I also don't understand why the material doesn't come a tad thinner. I have a small piece of aluminum plate that's the same thickness as the rotor and I use it to bench test as I'm sanding instead of having to assemble the brakes to check progress. It saves a little time.
What did you use for adhesive? I use good ole JB Weld and it seems to work just fine.
.
It sounds like you went through exactly what I did when relining some brake pads. I use a 4"x36" bench top belt sander with different grit belts. I also use it for resurfacing PTOs and clutch pressure plates. I assume you bought one of the 7-1/2"x7-1/2" sheets of the brake material so now you should have enough for another tractor. I also don't understand why the material doesn't come a tad thinner. I have a small piece of aluminum plate that's the same thickness as the rotor and I use it to bench test as I'm sanding instead of having to assemble the brakes to check progress. It saves a little time.
What did you use for adhesive? I use good ole JB Weld and it seems to work just fine.
.
Wayne, I also used the JB Weld.
The friction mat'l was McMaster Carr in the 1" wide strip. Sanding and cutting the ovals was the biggest PITA. I wonder if the stock mat'l could be run through a surface planer, one that had teeth that were about worn out??
If someone could make a die to cut them with, they could offer replacements but only if the correct thickness mat's could be had.
The friction mat'l was McMaster Carr in the 1" wide strip. Sanding and cutting the ovals was the biggest PITA. I wonder if the stock mat'l could be run through a surface planer, one that had teeth that were about worn out??
If someone could make a die to cut them with, they could offer replacements but only if the correct thickness mat's could be had.
David-
I don't know what would happen using a surface planer. If you have access to a belt sander get a 80 grit belt and you might be surprised how quickly it will cut the material. I use the 7.5"x7.5" sheets because I've done both the ovals and some kidney shaped pads. A jig saw does quick work of that step.
.
I don't know what would happen using a surface planer. If you have access to a belt sander get a 80 grit belt and you might be surprised how quickly it will cut the material. I use the 7.5"x7.5" sheets because I've done both the ovals and some kidney shaped pads. A jig saw does quick work of that step.
.
Got the belt sander and used it some but hard to get an even surface when the stuff is so thin and narrow. Jig saw would work well though I don't have one of those. Coping saw would do the trick also I suppose. I just carved them w/a utility knife.
Mocked up the tower ass'y today and installed an
upgraded lift link that I made to the hydraulics. Also discovered I have the earlier pre #425999 shift control rod that don't use the friction disc and Bellville spring washer but relies on additional washers to provide proper up and down alignment in conjunction with the adjustable rod support.
I wonder why they changed that.
upgraded lift link that I made to the hydraulics. Also discovered I have the earlier pre #425999 shift control rod that don't use the friction disc and Bellville spring washer but relies on additional washers to provide proper up and down alignment in conjunction with the adjustable rod support.
I wonder why they changed that.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
David - I believe that early style shift control rod you're referring to, used a small cast iron or cast something clamp that tightened with a screw, and the casting broke easily if you torqued the screw a little to much. Just my thoughts. The update was a much better design.
Today's progress. Got the wiring installed and included an extra wire to the rear for a work light.
Hydro linkage is finished w/new ball joints and shims in the linkage to snug everything up.
I sure hope you fellows enjoy watching this unit come together as much as I enjoy making it so.
Hydro linkage is finished w/new ball joints and shims in the linkage to snug everything up.
I sure hope you fellows enjoy watching this unit come together as much as I enjoy making it so.
David, oh yeah! Please keep the updates coming, I'm following along.
mfrade
Well-known member
Times 2, keep'em coming David! You are doing some great work.
Here's about all I got done yesterday except for painting a few small items. The white pulley is the drive for the loader hydraulic pump.
At present, I'm still in limbo as to what to do about the exhaust. I sure don't want it blowing out and onto the new white paint on the loader arms and a vertical stack is not one of my favorite routes either. Wondering at this point, if an under hung exhaust route like the old Ford 8N's incorporated would be an option. Anyone ever explore that route before??
At present, I'm still in limbo as to what to do about the exhaust. I sure don't want it blowing out and onto the new white paint on the loader arms and a vertical stack is not one of my favorite routes either. Wondering at this point, if an under hung exhaust route like the old Ford 8N's incorporated would be an option. Anyone ever explore that route before??
David, CLICK HERE and scroll down about 2/3 of the page to where I reposted Doug B's under-slung exhaust photos.
The "Stones" showed up today for the loader Cub along w/2 new tubes for fluid.
Now to get the rims cleaned up and painted.
Now to get the rims cleaned up and painted.
