• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Battery for 149

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

teroberts

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
49
Location
Theresa NY
displayname
Tom Roberts
I wonder if anyone has used a class 26 auto battery. It looks tight and I will need to measure the battery in the store as I am not sure where they take the specs from.
Is there a better alternative? Just like the 105 this one cranks hard when its cold.
 
TOM, IT IS THE NATURE OF S/G NOT TO CRANK FAST BUT any batt. that fits will work.I bought a 149 last fall that had a 850 cr. amp batt mounted on a platform on back...doesn't seem to turn any faster.Keep in mind you're cranking cold oil in trans as well...Several members have mentioned using magnetic heaters..
 
Mine is not cranking at all! I knew it needed a battery even though it was starting before it got cold so if I get one I want to get something decent. I will do another search for the magnetic heaters and try to determine if they go on the trans or the motor. I just no longer have a warm spot for it as the wood shop has exploded. I seem to remember seeing large battery boxes on the back but seem like that would interfere with the rear hitch.
I guess part of the issue is I will not be using it frequently as I have a nice walk behind blower. I really don't have any place to shove the snow but we do get ice and hard pack snow sliding off the roof of the studio and the snow blower will not touch it. In the past we have busted it up with a maul an move the chucks by hand but it gets old plus I want to have a small loader and pushing stuff around is way more fun.
 
Make sure you are running 10w-30 in the engine and put a magnetic heater on the transaxle and it should start pretty easily if the engine is in good shape, timing and valves set correctly, etc. Also helps to have the battery on a trickle charger somewhere warm, then install the warm, charged battery right before use. 340CCA L&G battery will be sufficient.

Battery cables need to be in good condition as well. IMO, the original 8-gauge wires for the battery cable, ground, and wire to armature of starter/generator on these is a bit marginal, and become more marginal if any corrosion develops in the crimped connections or under the insulation. 6-gauge would be better.
 
Tom, Matt is so right about the cables,they have a tendency to corrode inside connectors where you can't see it..literally had 1 fall apart last yr but looked fine..Putting a large auto batt on back takes some custom work but shouldn't be neccessary...
 
I have posted this in the past but, I still think the best thing to do for easier starting especially in the Winter, is to install a clutch. I bought a used one on eBay. I highly recommend this, and I have done this with my 149, so I know it works great. You won't need heavier battery cables or a magnetic heater (tried that, meh). I would also recommend a battery maintainer.
 
I bought a new battery, replace the conventional round battery ends with copper lugs soldered in and got one of those battery boosters. Starts good. Now to install the chains and get some weight over the tires. Running wide ag tires with smaller wheel weights. I could kick myself for selling my 75# set.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top