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Archive through September 22, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I'll give these ideas a try,I've got the steering box off,every thing is seized.I have been soaking everything with penetrating oil for about a week.I think i'm going to have to add a little heat now.
My son is pulling tonight on the 71,I made up a front weight bracket this past week.I'm using pipe blanks for the weights but it will work with the suitcase style when i get some of them.
I'll keep you's posted on the progress.
 
I am trying to restore a 1200 and was wondering if any one knew where to get new decals for one
 
Bryan, click on the business cards of our sponsers above. <font size="-2">( C C Specialties or Cub Cadet Classics should work well for you)</font>
 
Bryan K., WELCOME!
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See the colorful boxes at the top of the page? Those are forum sponsors, several of them carry decals.
 
Well we've got 2 more from Kaintuck ... at least one asked a sensible question.
 
Kentuck, did you check-out Bryans' e-mail address.?
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...He's a diesel mech-a-nick. Our diesel Cub owners gonna have some more help around here.
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Allen - I overlooked it ... But I bet he works on REAL diesels !
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I think I found my overheating problem with the 126. I started taking the tin off the engine and found soot marks around the front side. Blown head gasket?
 
Whew...

Sorry I was gone for awhile there. I took a road-trip with some friends and I guess we took the long way back into town.

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I'm back now though!
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Hello. Have a Cub Cadet 1440 which will not start. Is this the right forum for finding information on this problem?
 
Thomas-
Welcome to the forum. You're going to want to post your question HERE in the MTD section.

Also, put an email address in your profile, then people can contact you with further assistance. It's a great group here.
 
Spending some quality time with my son tearing down my "history unknown" 104. I am amazed at how these things are designed and engineered. I have the engine moved forward and am trying to figure out the driveshaft removal. Rust everywhere and I am trying to avoid hammering on things to see if they move or not. I have rusted over collars and 2 ea per side drift pins. Any tips here would be appreciated. tim p
 
After 19 years of service I thought it was about time to remove the head on my 1250 & decarbon it,
not to bad for 19 years.
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Melody, just anouther symptom, I'd be thinking head gasket too. Check the exhaust for leaks while your there.
 
Timothy - DON'T use a hammer THERE on the pins - That aluminum cup on the flywheel will break ! BTDT !
Try to unbolt the cup from the flywheel.

Or am I to late .... ?
 
Ken, you are not too late. I pulled the engine forward after unbolting it. The driveshaft is separate from the flywheel and completely free form the engine. The driveshaft is pretty rusty and I am having a hard time figuring out how it comes off the creeper gear housing. I am assuming that it just pulls out but my helper lost interest in it and I am in with him for the evening. I have also noticed that the actuator that the clutch is connected to on the transmission is stuck as well.
 
Tim "P",
Did you take the roll pin out of the coupler on the creeper?
 
I need help. I have a CCO that I am restoring. It is back together. I wired it from the Kohler diagram. It started and ran fine. I mistakedly left the ignition switch on and discovered the coil was hot but it started and ran 6 or 8 times over a couple days then it would not start. It had no spark. The points had over heated so I put in new points and still no spark. With ingnition on there is 12.8 volts at the coil. Is that right? Could the coil or condenser be burnt? What would cause the coil to get hot with the key on or is that normal? Any ideas would be apprecated.
 

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