Archive through September 21, 2009

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - I think Kraig has the time of computerization @ IHC pegged pretty good, around 1970. I do remember the Plant code for FARMALL was #1, East Moline was #3,

Funny but VERY true story. I normally always went in early and ALWAYS stayed late at work. One night about 5:30 (4 PM quitting time for Us) the Assistant Plant Mgr. came walking down the hall towards Our dept. He had a Proud owner of a 4586 4WD on the phone, but the owner wasn't real happy, somehow He found out that FARMALL made the frt & rear drive axles for His tractor and His new tractor had a catastrophic failure the first couple hours of use doing fall tillage. He wanted to FLY a whole rearend from Rock Island (via Moline, IL airport) to N. Dakota I think it was and the Assistant Plt. Mgr wanted to know how heavy it was and how big. This was after the Big Strike of '79 & '80 and one of my jobs as a fork truck driver was to haul those rearends from assembly down to shipping at the end of every day. They were 4000# and over 100 inches from axle end to axle end, and about six feet from front to back. I never actually heard how that whole situation was resolved but I imagine a drive axle was trucked from Steiger at Fargo to the dealer. I admire that Farmer's ability to get the attention of the right people to get things done!

 

[thoffman]

Kraig,
Sorry for the incorrect spelling. Buster Crabbe AKA "Flash Gordon"!!

 

[jschlipp]

169 reliefe valves
thanks guys (Frank, dave and Tim) for the info/input on relief valves.
I mentioned to the shop about the sticking despite cleaning, lubrication, light sanding. so they looked at them. I did find the articles on repairing them that same day I posted...as mentioned by dave Q/A later. I don't have the tools to do that but found it great info. I have found two other relief valves. that I might swap out...the pegs stick on these also when I push them in--possible bad spring?, or once in is there some minimal pressure that helps push them up...I just would like ones that work so when I have to push the cub, for some reason, theres no problem, and don't have to push them down and pull them up with a tool.
thanks

 

[pbell]

Art, Ryan,
According to Hank Wills book,CUB CADET, The First 45 Years, there were 16,318 123's built, along with 30,989 122's, 30,615 102's, and 11,072 model 71's. The production figures are known for some models, if you want to go to Madison and dig them out.

 

[bnolte]

Joe B.
There are several ways you can go to improve your steering traction on snow. Anything is better than those wide lightly ribbed turf tires, but for my money, I would go with either Ag treads or Tri-Rib tires. When I recently redid my 102 for show and snow duty, I outfitted it with the Ag tires as shown below.

If you have the standard 5/8 spindles, its easy to find used wheels, mount the Tri-Ribs or Ags on one set of wheels, and leave your turf tires as they are. When the snow gets ready to fly, you can jack up the front end of the tractor and swap out the wheels quickly, only one bolt per wheel. I would almost prefer narrow rims to the wider ones on front for snow duty, the wider tires seem to "float" over packed snow, sleet, and drifted snow, the narrower tires tend to dig in better.

I don't think it's really worthwhile to fill front tires with fluid, you'll have plenty of weight on the front end because of the blade, and you'll only add maybe 15 pounds more weight. Back tires are a different matter. The fluid causes corrosion problems with the rims as well.

Here's my 102 outfitted with Ag treads all around. I'm planning to pull the front wheels off my old 102 and put tri-ribs on that one for use on the 129 when it has the blower on it.

 

[tgue]

Hey Guys I was wondering if anyone has a wiring schematic that i could look at for a 104. It is the last piece to finish getting it running.

 

[bbrigham]

I have been using tri ribs the last couple years and haven't looked back since. Thanks to our moron neighbors we also end up with ice covering everything, I chipped a hole in it with a hatchet last year to see how thick it got and was quite supprised.....13" !!!! Even tri ribs won't work on that but somewhere I heard of something to try. Air the front tires down, wrap a length of bicycle chain around each tire close to the center <font size="-2">(of course cut to length)</font> then air the tires back up. I'm gonna try it this year.

 

[cengelking]

Luther, I know Kinze's planters use that sort of tire for their split row planters. There drive tires for the planter are made with no center rib. If it was there, it would push the seed in that row futher in the ground. This way all the rows are uniform depth.

 

[rwilke]

Paul Van B.,
Do you plan to remove the balance gears?
If so, you'll need some long reach C-clip pliers.
Take your patience with you when you get ready to remove the gears.

Good Luck!


Paul Bell,
Your data is VERY interesting!

Does your book also break the production data down to how many of each Cub model per production year?

Ryan Wilke

 

[jbollis]

I was going to try the carlisle snow hog ( holeshot ). Any one know if they would be any good or not.
I dont have any trouble when the plow is up and the weight is on the tires. It is when i am pushing the snow that i cant steer . Any ideas on how to add some weight to the front?

I have also heard of the bike chain idea. I think that would be the ticket on ice .

joe

 

[bnolte]

Joe B.
You can fabricate a bracket that mounts to a strong part of the front end of the tractor. I can't give any more details, I'm not familiar with the 1282, and it depends on what you have handy for weights. I've seen pullers use barbell weights, suitcase weights, weights from old exercise machines, and I've even seen boxes filled with heavy scrap iron, such as old cast iron flywheels being used.

I'll try to settle the issue of Tri-Ribs versus Ag-Lugs debate this winter, I just ordered a set of tri-ribs to mount onto my old 102's wheels, which will go onto my 129 with the blower.

BTW, those Snow Hogs look like they might work pretty well.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

I have a set of the carlisle snow hogs on my 127 that was my snow plow tractor in the past. I now have a Cub Loboy because of the bigger blade and hydraulics.

Before getting the snow hogs, I had little to no steering control with the original wide front tires.

I think that the ride is "bumpy" on hard ground, but I have no problems steering.

Incidentally, when I bought it, the loboy's front tires were a set of 8x12 Cub Cadet rear tires. This tractor was used for large lawn mowing. I switched to the "regular" 4inch tri-ribs and have no problem steering in the snow.

 

[fcurrier]

T. Gue: 104 wiring diagram from Cubfaq:

 

[tgue]

Thanks alot for your help guys. I have some time off work due to an injury so i will get some quality Cub time. Might even get some time to spend on Farmall 100 I got last weekend.

 

[pbell]

Ryan,
The book was written by Oscar H. (Hank) Will III., and he only list the total production numbers for some models, not all models. To my knowledge there is no information available at this time, as to how many of a given model were produced in a given year or month. The Cub Cadet Monthly Production from Louisville Works only list the begining serial number for a given month and does not list the model it was used on. The Cub Cadet serial numbers ran in sequence, from the start to the end of IH production, regardless of the model the number was used on, and it is possible (and probable) that some numbers were skipped and not used and or destroyed. More than one model in a series may have been in production at the same time, for example the 129 and 149 could have been in production at the same time, or all production could have been one model only, as it was when the 169 was built. The 169 was built during the last 4 months of the series production, after production of the other models in the series (86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149) had ended, according to information given to me by Harold Schramm.

If it exist, most, if not all, of that type of information is probably in the IH Archives of the Wisconsin Historical Society, and it may become available at some point in time, but is not available at this time, that I am aware of.

 

[rwilke]

Paul Bell,
Thanks for sharing your CC production knowledge!

Ryan Wilke

 

[kabhold]

What is the most common problem ? I have no reverse on my 125.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, sounds like one of the hydro relief check valves has failed or the plunger is stuck down. You can swap them side to side and see if the problem moves to the forward direction. To do this you'll have to remove the fenders then split the tractor. It helps to have the service manual when doing this. The info starts on page 2-34. Here's what the check valves look like, see the top photo below they are the two large hex heads with a small button in the middle of them. Oh, and be SURE to clean the area completely before removing them.

More then likely it will look like this when you first remove the transmission.

 

[kabhold]

Kraig thanks for the help. You may have solved my problem.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

What to do, what to do???

This is a question that I think many of you have run into before.

In recent posts, I have mentioned that I started working on a 147 from 1971 that has been in my family since it was new. While garaged most of the time, it wasn't treated nicely, meaning the oil was changed infrequently, greased only during election years and tune ups were ignored until the tractor wouldn't start. I have learned the error of my ways will try to be a responsible Cub Cadet owner from now on.

What started as replacing the wiring harness has evolved into taking everything apart! Where do I stop? I don't intend for this to be a restoration project. I just want things to work right.

Ryan asked if I was going to remove the balance gears. I don't want to remove the crankshaft unless I absolutely have to and sticking a chisel into the engine scares me, so I probably won't. Of course I could be back in 6 months looking for an engine block without a hole in the side. I guess I am asking for advice on this issue, although I think I won't like the answer.

I will rebuild the carb and I would like to clean out the gas tank. I read a lot here about doing those jobs.

I haven't gotten to the Hydro unit or the rear end yet. Everything there was working OK before. I hope to only have to change the fluid and filter. The trunnion looks OK so that won't have to be welded.

Thanks for putting up with me as I ask questions.
-Paul