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Archive through September 17, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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BILL J. - I took my Raytech temp gun to a plow day years ago. I checked three hydros, Bryan McMeen's 169, Wyatt Compton's 169, and my 982. Bryan's 169 ran around 175-180 degrees, Wyatt's around 185-190, and my 982 around 160-165. If I had been able to make more than half a round with my 72 GD, I might have been able to get it up to 65-70 degrees. I broke a roll pin in the driveshaft and retired early that day.

Like Don says, with an intact fan, and no layers of crud on the hydro pump/motor just mowing shouldn't cause a heat problem on a hydro.

I don't really agree with Don about GD's over-heating when plowing. In tough plowing conditions I will run close to wide open. I've plowed in 1st gear and 2nd gear, and as long as you have the power & traction to pull the plow in the given conditions, faster is ALWAYS better. I've plowed behind some slow moving tractors that didn't turn the furrow over enough and large clods of dirt fall back into the furrow. That's not a big deal when the tires running in the furrow are a 11L X 15 and 15.5X38 tractor tires, but when they are a 4.00/4.80X8 & a 23-8.50X12, that's pretty big bump.
 
If memory serves me right, Wyatt was the only one I've ever heard of that boiled a hydro.
But I think was because he plowed 8 hours straight at Plow Day 3 I think it was.
 
Ken Freeman - the right side arm moves freely, I think when I said it wasn't moving I didn't move the other pulley enough for it TO move, but now that I re-read what you said I guess the arms should be fairly in line and that the spring could be just stretched out. because they both don't line up till the left is almost wrenched out of threads and the belt is loose, you can see in the top picture where I stopped the nut. I am going to go get a new spring tomorrow along with a new pto gauge. I have no clue what happened to mine. I don't think i could make one with what tools I have.

well I had this nice long post and I canceled by mistake!
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so, yes I have just removed the whole mule drive and deck. the center double pulley on the deck seems to have had better days. But I think they all seem to spin ok. The rod from what I see is not cracked. Every thing is just fairly worn. here are some pictures of the mule drive, I think I have the setup in the first diagram too. I have read that manual on the adjustment, I was under the impression that the two pulleys had to line up, so this is not true? as long as there is 3.5 inches from outside to center of pulley?

also, the "quick attach" is that bar that holds the pulleys suppose to lock into that grove? Mine sits into it but never really "locks" into place seems it should go back a little farther.

now that a few more have posted this goes along with what bill was saying about worn pulleys, in this video of my deck, should that belt be as loose as it seems?
http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/agutsechicken/Cub%20Cadet%20128/?action=view&current=IMG_0256_0037.mp4
here are some pictures of my mule drive.

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on a side note, in my attempt to do things the right way, I found out what my pto wear button was by the original owner.... so how are you suppose to get the new one in with out taking the rod or engine out?
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I know this applies to an automatic transmission in cars but should you let a hydro tractor run to help cool it off after making a few rounds as opposed to shutting the tractor off? Seems like keeping the fluid circulating and the fan running air over the fins would help cool things down.
 
Brian Branstetter

In an auto trans car the fluid will be cooled only when the trans is placed in neutral, no fluid is flowing in park so I have been told.

A hydro pumps as soon as the drive shaft turns so yes it will cool down if not used and run at lower than WOT.

Denny

I found with the 149 it would throw the sod back over the last row if I went to fast plowing , to slow and the sod would fall back. I did find a speed that seemed to do the job nicely but found it hard to hit that speed after making a turn to start another row.I ended up using a pencil to mark the spot by the hydro handle that everything worked the best .

Charlie
I think that is correct as to what hydro I read that did boil it`s fluid. I never work my tractors for 8 hrs so I dough I will ever see that being a problem for me.I like to many breaks lol.
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jeff baker - yup, I am talking about the one that goes on the arm to engage/disengage the pto.
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actually I already have the pto off, can't find my gauge so I will get one at the dealer tomorrow when i go get a new spring. I have both buttons actually. this is what happened to the new one on the pto after only one mow with the bolt that was in place and I didn't know what it was.
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Patrick James Fitzwater
I have found that I don`t use the gauge much any more . when you add the second nut on each screw and have three threads left between the end of the screw and the second nut, then the pto is usually set up and will work great . Charlie sells a brass pto button that I think will out last what you are using. they do work much better.
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James Patrick Fitzwater: Sounds like you took Harry's advice to pull it all out and look things over, I think it will pay benefits.

Watched your video, your deck belt should not be flopping as badly as yours appears to be doing. I would check two things:

(1) The condition of the outside pulleys; if they're severely rusted and/or dinged and bent they can cause the belt to run unevenly

(2) The condition of the idler pulley, arm, and spring; I recommend removing the idler pulley arm entirely from the deck, removing the bolt, cleaning it and greasing it well before reassembling it. With the pulley arm off, you can check the condition of the spring. It should be attached to the the deck with a bolt, if the spring falls off when you remove the arm, it is broken.

Finally, I'm posting two pages from the 1x8/9 manual which Harry referenced. The manual shows two different deck setups, one for the 38" deck which is like yours; and one of the 44" deck which is different. So everything that applies to the 38" deck can be used to set up the 48" deck, except for the placement of the rear guide wheels.

You will note that the manual recommends re-adjusting the deck to 3-1/2" extension of the spring after the first 1/2 hour of mowing, just as you report, and that under no circumstances should the spring be allowed to close up below 3-1/8" inches --so the tension on the spring is pretty critical to the operation of the deck.

As a general note, I find that for any assembly requiring either belts OR springs replacement of either is often the quickest and easiest route to returning the unit to design parameters.

I'm not sure that the PTO has to be removed to install the fiber button, but Jeff is a wide frame collector of great renown, and I trust his judgement.

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Edit: Patrick, I'm sorry I got your name mixed up.
After viewing your latest post, I realize Jeff is talking about the button on the PTO, my bad.
 
Patrick I thought he was using that on the pto clutch, but the fiber button should just push in and out. Or maybe I mis read you question

Although like Don said the sponsers above sell a brass button, which is all I use now.

thanks JC
 
haha ok yes the "fiber" button my bad. I know about the brass one... I should have gotten that one. I was going to get brake pads from him anyway.... I get impatient sometimes and get excited. Thanks for all the help. It started raining and the garage is a mess, so I'll look into the deck tomorrow. That manual page is very informative. Not the one That I have read. which manual is that from?--I dont remember seeing those pages in the manual. I think it is the same one i have.

I couldn't just push the fiber button in and I didn't want to break it, don't know of brittle they are. I just got an idea of using a C clamp and a piece of wood.. maybe that will help
 
Be VERY careful using a C-clamp putting that fiber button in. They are very brittle and I've broke several trying to use a pliers, c-clamp, and starting it in and tightening the rockshaft against the pto like the dealer told me to. when I was still using fiber buttons I always took the rockshaft out and installed it in the vice. Of course now I have a lathe and brass round stock so those days are long over
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Patrick before you tear up the button, I seem to remember having to lightly sand on the shaft of that button and a LITTLE penetrate oil on it and it should go
 
Dennis F--thanks for the info on the weights. I'm bummed that they aren't IH weights because I think that it is really a cool idea. The weights are on there and yet they are out of the way. I finally got the ambition to lug one in the house and set it on the scale. I weighed right at 51#! using two bolts to hold it on and the other two holes, theoretically I could install weights on both sides of the rim! Reading all the posts about the broken fiber "wear" button makes me sick. I got a little overzealous with the installation procedure and snapped the shank!
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Oh well, now I wait for the brass one to arrive and finish my install and test. I can't wait to try this thing on the tiller!
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I have a couple questions...I found a creeper drive this am is $25 to much ? Its a rebuild still in the box with stickers on it....I got it from a guy who retired his Cub Cadet store,he had one in his garage.

Also,im curious...can I put a 48" or 50" deck on my 104 ? I have a 42" now but I have a guy who said hed give me either or if I watched his kids on Sat afternoon.Both decks are in very good shape...
 
wow the people on ebay must think ih wheel weights are made of gold or something. juwt seen a set for 300. moore like greedbay
 
Jeff,LOL...I already bought it....Phil knew me when I was a lil girl going in there with my dad an my grandpa...he told me if I needed help putting it on to let him know...hes a sweet guy. I think hes like 88 now.He still has his IH pickup truck and looks like new still...
 

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