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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dsterley

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Feb 21, 2007
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Darren Sterley
Hello all, i dug out my 1450 a few weeks ago, got it running. then gave it a paint job, still need to get a good stearing column and put the decal (spirit of 76) on the dash tower and figure out how to make the seat white, that might not happen. just wanted to share, happy cubbing

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Darren, is the steering wheel just painted? You could use a 122, 123, 1x4/5 seat. Or take that seat to an upholster they should be able to fix you right up.
 
thanks Kraig, yes the stearing wheel is painted, and for the seat im just not convinced white would be the best colar for a seat. thats why the old black one is still on.
 
Darren, my SO76 has a black seat, the PO replaced the white one.

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im thinking ill just get the one i have redone in black, seing how your is black to lol what i did notice in your picture is your pin stripe is red above the blus decal got to change that on mine,the black looks a litte off
 
Ok, did a little investigating this morning and it looks like I could add a remote oil filter to my motor. Check out this picture and see if you agree.
I should be able to get the adapter kit off of a like M18 or KT 17 and just bolt it on right?

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Tom,
Lets see some more pictures of that Cub doing some work. How does the corn sheller work for you? Great job for a sunny afternoon!
 
hey guys, just got back home from the dealer and the belt they gave me seems to be the same size as my old one by my "stretch and measure" test. I am a little bummed. cub cadet 1 piece belt 489397R3 is what the guy gave me. I think I will put it on and try to adjust every thing like I should. I may have been mistaken in what length I said the belt was originally. that seems to be the belt Jeremiah referenced

From my pictures, would I wrench the pulley to me or away from me?
 
guess you can't add a photo to a edited post. Here are the two belts
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Brian,

Yes, you are correct....filter away!!!!
 
MIKE PATTERSON...just reviewed about 5 days of posts but didn't see you post anything about putting a <font size="-2">multi</font>meter on your generator etc. Did I miss something, or you didn't check yet?
 
I adjusted the belt so both line up. But the belt is very loose. I went on to mow and did good for awhile even in the foot and a half grass. Then the belt started slipping so I stopped and parked it. I'll post some pictures when I get them uploaded
 
Patrick James Fitzwater: I think the dealer sold you the right belt, it is 75-1/2" long.

Did you get a new Mule Drive Extension Spring, P/N IH-489607-R4, shown as Item 5 in the diagram below?

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You can find the diagram above in Parts Lookup under "Attachments" for your 128 Garden Tractor; it is the "Hitch, Quick Attach for 38 42 48 Blade SN 400,001 to 529,999"

The belt for the 38" and 42" decks is called out as P/N IH-490489-R2 and it is listed as 80" long.

Or perhaps you have the Hitch as shown below, for tractors SN 218,010 to 400,000:

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Some more experienced heads may be able to compare your photographs to the diagrams and tell you which one is on your tractor.

Gerry Ide (and Charlie): Point taken on the deck measurement. I often wondered why my sums didn't always add up to the given deck width, which is why I told James he could get an "idea" of which deck he had. Learned something, thank you.

Edit: I checked your photos and I saw the spring as shown for the later hitch, the first one I posted above, on top. I don't see a spring in the other diagram.
 
Patrick James Fitzwater,

I will try to offer some suggestions. Are you sure that the right side (viewed from the tractor seat) mule drive pulley is freely pivoting on the shaft (Part #18 pivoting on Part #6 in Jeremiah's top diagram below)? You mentioned that it didn't move when you tightened the adjuster.

The spring should pull the right side pulley to the front of the tractor with the belt installed loosely. Then, as you tighten the adjuster the left side pulley moves forward and the right side pulley moves rearward against spring tension. When all is correct, the two pulleys should be about the same distance back (their arms nearly vertical) and the belt should have the proper tension.
 
Patrick F - FWIW, I've seen/had older decks that saw a goodly amount of rust in the pulley grooves. The stuff flaked off and with a 3 pulley deck, it was enough to impact the required belt length. If your pulleys are warn like I'm talking about, you might need a slightly shorter belt to compensate as the belt rides deeper in the grooves - making your belt seem longer than necessary.

Don't know if anyone else has seen this, but would be curious if they had.
 
Quick question - hydro heat. I've read that during plow day work, the hydro's on these Cub Cadets can get mighty hot, whereas the gear drives work along fairly cool. My question is - how warm should the rear end on these Cub Cadets be when doing "normal" stuff like mowing grass, etc. Warm, hot but not so hot as to burn your hand or boiling hot?

I noticed the other day when mowing with my 109, the tranny was warm, but not scalding, but not something I would want to keep my hand on for a long time. I've got a new filter, tranny oil and gasket for a change, but am curious as to the normal heat of the transmission casing during non-plow day type use, i.e. mowing.
 
Patrick James Fitzwater - I think Jeremiah might be on to something. I re-reviewed the pics you posted and see the spring installed upside down. The spring is supposed to be slipped thru the BIG hole and the end of it connect/catch in the little hole. Also, I suspect you don't have an Operator Manual or How To Set Up Manual for the deck. You can probably find one in the FAQ, or it maybe in the back section of the Tractor Operator Manual. The manual should identify how to properly tension the belt by measuring the spring. I believe it's 3.5" when measured from the back of the cross piece the spring connects thru, to the center of the bolt holding the spring onto the rod. It's hard to describe and much better visualized in the manual. Now, my overall recommendation is to completely remove your sub-frame with the mule drive and have a good look over the entire assembly. Besides the spring possibly being stretched out (fairly common problem) the rod holding both pulleys often cracks and you can't get proper tension on the belt. You also need to make sure you have good pulleys (meaning they spin freely on their mounting bolts and the bearing are not shot - common problem). Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Steve!!

Cant really tell by the pictures but I got some work done today on the 122. Dang bearing failed so out comes the drive line....again. It was my fault, the clutch return spring needed to be replaced.

Oh, Thanks to CC Specialties for the key chain. Looks better then what the tractor came with..


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Bill Jamison
the hydro fluid will get hot, It is pumped through small plungers and this creates heat.How hot is to hot ? I have heard at plow days they can overflow.I would think that the cub would have to do more work the just mow grass to cause a heat problem .Does your fan on the drive shaft still move air and is that area clean so it can be cooled by the air passing over it from the drive
shaft fan ?

I would think a gear drive tractor would have an engine over heat issue more than a hydro tractor. I think a hydro tractor could be run at a speed that would make it plow better and the gear drive would have to run at a higher gear and less rpm`s witch would cause them to overheat. I did notice when I used my 149 to plow . It liked one speed to roll the sod and to fast was not the answer.
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Just have some refreshments and let the tractor cool down on real hot days.These Cubs are tough but they can be broken .
 
I've never over heated my 122 with plowing, that I know of, although you normally do that in the spring and the fall when the temps are a little lower. Also, I've run straight 30 weight Kohler oil, tried to keep the cooling fins clean and tune the motor to run premium fuel. There's no doubt that they get hot but I've never noticed it losing power.
 

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