Archive through September 13, 2006

[digger]

Brad S.
I guess you could adapt a 982 rear PTO on your tractor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brad S., or you could add a heavy duty rear hydraulic setup and go with a hydraulic tiller. Here's a hydraulic setup that Craig Delong did a few years back. Craig did his for a rear grader blade but with strong rear hydraulic outlets you could power a hydraulic tiller. For your 1650 I believe you'd have to relocate the battery though.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I have just added Aux. Hydraulics to a 147 by connecting a 4 gal. per minute pump to the output shaft of the hydro. Seems to work quite well so far. I replaced the tin cover on the rear housing with a 1/4" plate and mounted the pump on the rear of it. Hyd fluid is drawn out of the rear assy., thru a filter and into the pump. Rear housing is acting as the tank and after going thru pump and valve, fluid is dumped back in the rear thru another fitting in the plate. Its a bolt on unit that fits quite well under the seat but you have to remove some of the tin in the under-seat compartment. If anyone knows any problems this can cause the hydro ....please let me know. I'll try and post a photo if I can figger it out!
C. DeLong
Well thanks guys, had the idea in my head for quite a while now, finally got around to working on it. Pump is from Northern, can get quite a few differant volumes-pressures, all mount same. Valve is three spool eaton 6 gal. per minute. Filter mount is off 85 Ford 6.9 diesel fuel filter, ports rebored and retapped, fitted with napa 1244 hyd filter (for small size). Pump is coupled with hollow shaft bored 5/8" hydro end and 1/2" with key slot and set screw on pump end.
Whole arrangement is quite simple to build.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[tbordeleau]

What would the symptoms of a high or low carb float level be?

I would imagine that a low float level (as viewed looking at the carb, mounted on the tractor) would cause lean running at high rpm, possibly missing or stalling?

A high float level would cause flooding and again, rough running? Probably inability to idle?

My 1450 is exibiting what I HOPE is a low float level, haven't had a chance to dig in yet, but I've checked practically everything else. It idles great, craps out at high throttle, especially under load.

Is my thinking on float level correct?

 

[tcbusch]

Charlie,
I want a "Ground Saw" Trencher!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, here's one that Rich Patton had back in 2002:

 

[aschumacher]

Ted B. Could be low float level, in same thought a sticky float valve or dirt in valve hole could affect fuel delivery. Have read that you could also have a exhaust valve hanging up or coil breakdown. Guys with more expierence will add on later. Check the FAQ's, maybe some help there.

 

[rmagsaam]

Has anybody seen a helper spring setup like this on a CC 100? I think it's probably not kosher.

 

[tcbusch]

I wonder what the thing is driven by the chain and sprocket in the bottom picture? Looks like it might be a creeper system. Maybe its a hydraulic motor that runs the rear of the drive train. From the what I can tell from the top picture the big fat hose goes to the hydraulic pump drive from the PTO. That's one big cooling tower he has there. Must generate allot of heat.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, that is a Brinly helper spring for a Cub Cadet. It works good only catch is that you have to have the rear hitch for it to mount.

 

[tbordeleau]

Allen-

I've mitigated any exhaust valve sticking per the FAQ instructions and by re-adjusting the needle valves. Seemed to take care of the stalling outright when hot issue. I rebuilt the carb, and when the current problem surfaced, removed the float bowl and sprayed the %$*&@! out of every orifice in the carb. The fuel runs freely into the float bowl, but I didn't check the shutoff action of the float needle, OR the float height.

The coil is the ONE other thing I have never replaced.

I basically wanted confirmation that it COULD be a low float. I will check that and the coil this weekend.

TB

 

[kmcconaughey]

I found a few more photos of Craig D's custom hydraulic setup.

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY - You are correct....the hyd. motor & roller chain back-drives the tractor forward while the trencher is in operation. IHC used a similar setup called a "HYDRA-CREEPER DRIVE" on the LowBoy and even up thru the Cuper C model Farmall's.

 

[aschumacher]

Ted B. There is a second FAQ for Cubs if u didnt look yet. All sorts of neat stuff. HTTP://cubfaq.com/questions.html (note NO www.!)

 

[bmcmeen]

Ahem, www.cubfaq.com works just fine

 

[rmagsaam]

Kraig, do you have a picture of how that bracket would mount on the hitch for the Brinley helper spring? Thanks for the info!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, here it is. The bar in the photo that you posted is the lift rod for the Cub Cadet rear hitch, aka "Cub Cadet 3-point hitch". Sorry but this is the only version I have of the installation instructions. I sure wish I had a high resolution version of it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's the third figure for the instructions. The 4th figure is for the sleeve hitch adapter installation.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I found a better version of the figures in my archives.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hmmm, I found the higher resolution version of the text too. I guess I didn't look hard enough at first.

 

[rmagsaam]

Excellent! Thank you! I was worrying about the distance from the end of the lift arm too, but that answered that question.