Archive through September 06, 2005

[cjackson]

I've had my 149 for a summer now and have slew of questions that have built up since taking ownership.

1. During startup it seems to have some preignition problems. While cranking the engine will lurch and stop turning and then start turning again. Once started, no problem. What gives??

2. The front mule drive is VERY worn where it rides on the studs in the frame. This allow the drive to move when the deck is raised and lowered. Is this a problem? Is there a fix maybe bushings on the studs? Should I replace the mule?

3. During its previous ownership the arm that the deck lift piston connects to broke (both the arm itself and the where that arm connects to shaft). Both of these issues were repaired but I cannot tell if it was performed correctly. It looks as the arm may have been lengthened in the repair. Is it worth replacing this assembly? Difficulty?

4. Does anyone have a picture of a properly assembled hydro linkage. Mine too suffers from "speed creep". My initial inspection seems to indicate that the spring assembly is not properly seated in the triangular plate. While I haven't checked for wear on the plate (of which I'm sure there is some), I'm sure that an alignment problem may cause problems as well.

5. There is significant back and forth pivoting of the front axle beam. Is this likely a bushing or pin problem or will it likely require the replacement of the entire front beam?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Chuck J

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck,

1. My #2 125 does that when it's cold out. I believe (but I'm not 100% sure) that is the compression release, right as it fires the rotation speed increases to the point where the compression release closes but the engine doesn't stay running and seems to stop. It could be that the timing is off slightly or perhaps the S/G isn't turning fast enough due to wear or perhaps a weak battery.

2. Is it worn where the pins mount into the Quick Attach clips or where the subframe "forks" slip over the frankenstein bolts on the side of the frame or both?

3. Good question.... I'm going to leave this one for someone else.

4. "Does anyone have a picture...." Silly question, of course we have pictures! I'll see what I have. Watch here or in you email.

5. Most likely the axle pin but there might be wear in the axle, no replaceable bushing in the assembly.

Item #1 part number: IH-384626-R3

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck, just thought of one more thing on the front axle. The channel on the frame that the axle mounts up into can spread apart over time. To fix this you remove the axle then install an appropriate sized bolt with a washer and nut, then tighten the nut to draw the channel together, this will help lessen the back and forth pivoting replace the pin when you reassemble the axle.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck, here's another, some have replaced the pin with a bolt however the head of the bolt can interfere with the engine oil pan so it must be ground thinner. I believe Steve Blunier has done this.

 

[digger]

Kraig!
Hey Now!
I think I resemble that remark! LOL

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, yeah but you know it's a "Cadet" not a "Cub Cadet"!

 

[stanner]

Chuck,
I have done the bolt routine on the front axle, and it works excellent. I took a 3/4" grade 8 bolt and turned the head down to ~1/4" thick, and used a ny-loc nut along with a large, thick (1/8") flat on each side. I will post pics tonight if I think of it...

 

[bbaker]

Will a snow plow for a wide frame (off of a 129) fit my new 782? Are there any mods I will have to do or can I just slap it under there?

 

[digger]

Kraig,
I do? grin

Bryan B,
Slap away!
I was gonna ask if you had tried, but thought better of it.

 

[hlinden]

Anybody know why the keeper of the vinyl decals does not answer emails? I would like to get a set to complete my orignal.

Thanks

<font color="ff0000">It's because he's busy with his real job and remodeling his house and doing all that summer time ending stuff.</font>

 

[dkirk]

Bryan and Norm,

I got a little behind in my site reading lately, but to address the question on reboring an opposed twin - my preference would be to bore both cylinders and equip with new pistons and rings, plus give it a valve job while it's apart. Then, per Don's suggestion, I'd get both pistons to weigh the same, plus or minus a couple grams. Then I'd have a smooth runner that would never require major attention for many years.

 

[dkirk]

Here's a cute little Power Products two-stroke from my collection that has been balanced by matching weights of pistons and rods. She's a smooth runner.

 

[digger]

Harry L,
Seems the ihcubcadet.com email thingy is on the fritz right now.

 

[nbartee]

Thanks for the input, David.
The price they wanted at the machine shop was $39 each to re-bore and $35 each to do the valves. What do y'all think, is that about the going price where you live?
Also, where do you remove the alum. to balance, inside center of the piston?

 

[cjackson]

Kraig and others,

Thanks for the advice on the axle beam. I think I'll try the bolt trick but it looks like a project for this winter. I think I may need to raise up the motor to remove/install a bolt. I'll check the timing (if it's adjustable). It makes perfect sense that that could be the problem cause that's what it seems like but now that I think about it the starter seems to be a bit sluggish at first.

As for the mule drive; It is worn where the forks slide of the Frankenstein bolts. So much so that the Frankenstein bolt heads have worn their hexagonal shape in to the sides of the forks. It looks as the forks are 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider than the bolt's diameter.

 

[sblunier]

Norm,

$75 for two holes and 2 valve jobs??...or is it per side??? Either way, as big of a PITA a KT motor is to pull down, I'd have both done.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck, sounds like it might be time for a new mule drive/deck subframe. Or if you're handy with a welder you could build the "forks" back up and reshape them with a grinder, or simply put a washer between the head of the frankenstein bolt and the "fork".

 

[bmcmeen]

Just a reminder - as Sunday approaches, please remember to post your thoughts and what-not in THE SANDBOX, not here. Thanks.

 

[craymond]

I'd like to point out that 5w50 (Castrol?) is not a proper Group IV or V synthetic oil, its a Group III highly refined conventional oil. Its a good oil but not a true synthetic. In the diesel Mercedes world its known for needing replacement at about the same time as conventional oil while a real group IV or V synthetic can last twice as long or more than conventional oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil or Redline.
I've used Mobil 1 extensively in both small engines and in road vehicles and never had any issues. Mobil 1 5w40 is about the finest oil I've ever used.

 

[mgonitzke]

...Anyone who's seen Sheaffer Oil's "demonstration" (including me) won't touch Mobil 1 (or any other oil) with a 10 foot pole...