• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through September 05, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tom A.
Welcome to the forum.
thumbsup_old.gif

Click the FAQ line above and check out question #6 and download the Kohler manual.
That will save you tons of time later on too.

The timing mark on the flywheel can be pretty hard-to-see sometimes. If you're patient, and have a good flashlight, you can turn the crankshaft really slow (by hand) and eventually you'll see the marks... but they're not big and blatant... just lightly marked into the metal.
 
Tom A,
I took the spark plug out so the engine would turn easier. I folded a piece of emery cloth or sandpaper so it would fit in the hole. I turned the motor over by hand while holding the sandpaper against the flywheel through the hole. This made the flywheel shiny and left the mark dark.
 
JAMES C. - There's people who know for sure but I'm about 90-95% sure IHC stamped their own housings & assembled their own 44C decks. There's really nothing else in the industry like those decks that I've ever seen.
IHC never bought much of anything if they could make it themselves.
 
PROJECT 100

Been working on this 100 lately. Finally got it back to rolling stage. Made a new clutch cover to clean the area up a bit, still need to weld on it a bit and get it painted, then on to the motor detailing. The wheels are getting blasted, then to paint and fresh tires. There sure is a lot of parts and money involved in something thats just gonna sit around a look pretty. I did the supersteer upgrade to this and used the heim joints insted of the stock tie rod ends, I also machined the axle down and added thrust bearings between the axle and the spindle, seems to really steer nice. Better get back to work, maybe I can paint some more this weekend lets hope.

Tom
64631.jpg

64632.jpg

64633.jpg

64634.jpg
 
I'm rebuilding a 126 and my engine data plate is shot. It is almost impossible to read. Fortunately I got the model, spec, and s/n off of it while it was still readable. I was thinking that I had seen something online where you could have a new data plate made. Am I dreaming or has someone else seen this too? Any help or a link to take me there would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
I put the newly rebuilt engine in the loader yesterday. It vibrates allot more than the Series D engine I ran in the loader for a couple of weeks. My 147 #2 also vibrates the same way and has the same style motor. When I rebuilt the engine I replaced the stub shafts and bearings in the balance gears. I am assuming that the gears are suppose to help with the vibration.

Another thing I noticed about the Series D engine is that the flywheel is too small. I cannot see the flywheel timing mark. The hole for the timing mark is a half moon cutout instead of the round hole like the other 14HP's I have.

I have the serial number for the series D Kohler but nothing else. Is there a look up table someplace that would tell me the specs of the motor? From what I could tell its serial #13038516. I am wondering why this engine doesn't shake as much. Is the crank balanced or something? I am also curious about the smaller flywheel. Do I actually have a 12 HP engine? Could this account for the less vibration?
 
Terry-
When you replaced the bearings and stub shafts for the balance gears, did you get the balance gears "timed" correctly?
64656.jpg
 
I timed the gears properly. I used both the Kohler manual and the 147 Service manual. I wanted to make sure I did it correctly. I also rotated the shaft to check the marks as well. The top gear aligns the primary gear mark to the standard crank mark. The bottom gear aligns the secondary gear mark with the secondary crank mark.
 
well i finaly got around to fixing my PTO on my 129 Cub. I have ordered 4 times for the thrust button for my PTO and still have not got the right one. I saw a post by Richard on here a few weeks back and he has the same set up as mine. so i ordered from the sponser above and told him what post to look at and i`am still looking for the right button.now i have 4 buttons that are useless to me. my Cub has a 3 pronged disk between the clutch and the front release plate.
this is held together with a clip that holds everything together, so when the PTO is disengaged the plate doesn`t just fly away. Can someone help ? Don
 
Donald T.
Maybe you can take a pic or two and show us what you have and what you got.
I'm not even sure what your asking, but I have CRS ya know! LOL
Is this the button you think you need?"
64658.jpg
 
Art A.
I used NF spindles and linkages. The draglink arm assy has to be shortened or it will hit the frame/ mule drive. Note the scratch in the pic.

64662.jpg
 
Hi Charlie yes i think that is the one i need. there is a clip to hold it in place#13 i have that . looking for #14,#28,#29. Hope this will help. Don T
 
Me again, the last button that was shipped has a
small end and is not the one. the one i need holds the plate # 13 on to the button. Don T
 
Donald T., you need parts #5 and #8 in this photo, yes?
dunno.gif


64673.jpg
 
Thanks Charlie the parts you list are the right ones to get my PTO running. How do i get them?
Don tanner
 
Sorry Kraig ,you are right 0n . now how or whom do i get these parts from? Thanks again Don Tanner
 

Latest posts

Back
Top