DAVE - I think it's 2000 rpm reduced from 3200 with the belts/pulleys only. The ONAN's in the 982's were only supposed to run 3200 according to My books.... Special GROB spline too 15/16" 21 spline.... non-ASAE if I remember right. But I've seen a really slick 3-point mounted lawn sprayer build to run a small roller pump with that PTO! I bet Kraig's seen it too! You buy the splined shaft by the foot!
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Archive through October 27, 2004
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
ON the voltage regulater subject,
I have run into voltage reg's with the 4th lead, make sure this leg is not marked with a letter L, whitch indecates it is to be hooked up to the lights, ( or so I was told by the NAPA guy I purchased the reg from) also make sure it is a tractor votage reg and not a automotive reg, there seems to be some difference there also.( as I was told)
I have run into voltage reg's with the 4th lead, make sure this leg is not marked with a letter L, whitch indecates it is to be hooked up to the lights, ( or so I was told by the NAPA guy I purchased the reg from) also make sure it is a tractor votage reg and not a automotive reg, there seems to be some difference there also.( as I was told)
jhangartner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2006
- Messages
- 119
- displayname
- Jason W Hangartner
The weather is looking better and better for Saturday
R
rbuck
Guest
<center><font color="ff0000"><font size="+2">G O S O X</font></font></center>
At least I don't post this G O S O X crap!
Tyler,
It's FREE! But the raffle will costya bigtime!
Give big and give often, it's for a good cause.
It's FREE! But the raffle will costya bigtime!
Give big and give often, it's for a good cause.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
<font size="+2">FINAL PLOW DAY ADJUSTED SCHEDULE</font>
<font size="+2">P-L-E-A-S-E READ THIS MESSAGE IF YOU PLAN ON BEING AT PLOW DAY</font>
Plow Day will be held RAIN or SHINE at the Blunier Farm in Roanoke, IL on Sat. Oct. 30th.
I know all of you have been watching the weather...so you know what it's like around here. In the last 2 days we have had an additional 1/2" of rain and it has been foggy and overcast. We may also get more rain Friday evening, BUT Saturday still looks good. I won't lie to you, the ground is WET.......
In light of this, please note the following changes to the Plow Day schedule:
The START TIME has been pushed back to NO SOONER than <font size="+2">9AM</font>. PLEASE honor this request. The delayed start will help dry off the lots that you will be parking on and minimize damage.
As soon as possible after you arive, please REGISTER. This will be the only way to get raffle/door prize tickets and to eventually be allowed in the plowing field.
From 9AM to LUNCH we will hold a SWAP MEET in the vendor/display area.
The 4-H club will still be serving lunch (BBQ sandwiches, etc.).....please stay and support them.
DOOR PRIZES will be held at aprox. <font size="+2">1PM</font>
During the morning we will evaluate the plowing conditions in the field. HOPEFULLY we will be able to attempt some plowing by mid-day. If test plowing goes well, we will open the field up for everyone.
PLEASE pay attention to the assigned driving routes/parking places/etc. Much of the space we will be using is Big Steve's yard, and we should all try and be as carefull as possible to keep from tearing it up (since it is wet).
<font size="+2">THANKS</font> for bearing with us as we work through all of these weather delays, etc....we appreciate your support and cooperation!!!!
<font size="+2">See you soon at the 8th PLOW (swamp) DAY</font>
Steve
<font size="+2">P-L-E-A-S-E READ THIS MESSAGE IF YOU PLAN ON BEING AT PLOW DAY</font>
Plow Day will be held RAIN or SHINE at the Blunier Farm in Roanoke, IL on Sat. Oct. 30th.
I know all of you have been watching the weather...so you know what it's like around here. In the last 2 days we have had an additional 1/2" of rain and it has been foggy and overcast. We may also get more rain Friday evening, BUT Saturday still looks good. I won't lie to you, the ground is WET.......
In light of this, please note the following changes to the Plow Day schedule:
The START TIME has been pushed back to NO SOONER than <font size="+2">9AM</font>. PLEASE honor this request. The delayed start will help dry off the lots that you will be parking on and minimize damage.
As soon as possible after you arive, please REGISTER. This will be the only way to get raffle/door prize tickets and to eventually be allowed in the plowing field.
From 9AM to LUNCH we will hold a SWAP MEET in the vendor/display area.
The 4-H club will still be serving lunch (BBQ sandwiches, etc.).....please stay and support them.
DOOR PRIZES will be held at aprox. <font size="+2">1PM</font>
During the morning we will evaluate the plowing conditions in the field. HOPEFULLY we will be able to attempt some plowing by mid-day. If test plowing goes well, we will open the field up for everyone.
PLEASE pay attention to the assigned driving routes/parking places/etc. Much of the space we will be using is Big Steve's yard, and we should all try and be as carefull as possible to keep from tearing it up (since it is wet).
<font size="+2">THANKS</font> for bearing with us as we work through all of these weather delays, etc....we appreciate your support and cooperation!!!!
<font size="+2">See you soon at the 8th PLOW (swamp) DAY</font>
Steve
F
farmall gray
Guest
Wyatt,
I used the late QL/82 series driveshaft couplers on my 149. I always thought that slotted hub setup was a poor (and expensive) design. I made my own shaft though cause I didn't know if a OEM shaft would be the coorect length. Plus I aint paying $30 for a $3 piece of steel and 1/2 hr of my labor. I'm not sure what Steve means when he says there isn't room for double rag joints. Here is a couple pics.
BTW, I did this same mod on my 123 a couple years ago too. I just recently took the front coupler out of it and added a gear drive clutch assy to make it easier to start in winter.
(Message edited by tmarkle on October 28, 2004)
I used the late QL/82 series driveshaft couplers on my 149. I always thought that slotted hub setup was a poor (and expensive) design. I made my own shaft though cause I didn't know if a OEM shaft would be the coorect length. Plus I aint paying $30 for a $3 piece of steel and 1/2 hr of my labor. I'm not sure what Steve means when he says there isn't room for double rag joints. Here is a couple pics.
BTW, I did this same mod on my 123 a couple years ago too. I just recently took the front coupler out of it and added a gear drive clutch assy to make it easier to start in winter.
(Message edited by tmarkle on October 28, 2004)
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Todd,
The driveshaft pin holes are too far apart on the shaft I used (QL shaft in my 169) to allow double joints at both ends.....tried it and couldn't shoehorn the 2nd one in the front, but it was close. May have been the combo of parts I used...who knows.
The driveshaft pin holes are too far apart on the shaft I used (QL shaft in my 169) to allow double joints at both ends.....tried it and couldn't shoehorn the 2nd one in the front, but it was close. May have been the combo of parts I used...who knows.
F
farmall gray
Guest
Steve,
I really had no way of knowing whether the engine to hydro pump spacing was the same from an XX9 to a QL. I didn't have a QL to compare it to. I used mostly new parts-no donor tractor. I just put everything together with a piece of 5/8" CR then
marked the holes, tore it back apart and then drilled the holes. I think I used 2 of the small hole rag joints at the front but had to use 1 of the large hole rag joints for the one closest to the hydro pump.
I really had no way of knowing whether the engine to hydro pump spacing was the same from an XX9 to a QL. I didn't have a QL to compare it to. I used mostly new parts-no donor tractor. I just put everything together with a piece of 5/8" CR then
marked the holes, tore it back apart and then drilled the holes. I think I used 2 of the small hole rag joints at the front but had to use 1 of the large hole rag joints for the one closest to the hydro pump.
I visited my local CC dealer and walked through his storage yard of old tractors. I found a rusted - but serviceable -- OEM battery hold down rod. My 122 was missing one rod and the hold down bar is almost rusted in two. Can I cut a piece of simple angle iron that is about the same length and width of the OEM bar and drill two holes and use it to hold the battery down? It seems like a simple solution, but I thought I'd poll the group.
Thanks
Thanks
