John, I'm about 99% certain that the steering wheel center cap on a 100 should be an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> logo on a white background.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through October 21, 2013
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Turning radius:
782, is it me or is the turning radius kind of crappy on these machines? The radius is the same Left or Right so it's not a linkage issue. I was just very surprised how large the radius is. Thinking maybe the Rear axles are posi and that is why they made them turn so wide?
Drew up some Schematics and Wiring Block diagrams last week. Laid out the folding tables and made a harness this weekend. Just a few wraps of tape to keep the wires neat but wont heavy wrap it until I throw a battery on it and run through the functions. While buzzing out the origianl harness and looking at the Colored drawings on this site, I realized the P.O. never had the Voltage Regulator hooked up. No Wire from B+ on the regulator back to the ignition key(or direct to battery). He must have always used it on his small driveway (it was his plow tractor only) and got it back to the trickle charger and never realized there was no Charging system.
All wires are upgraded (overkill). #4 gauge to the Starter #10 everywhere else. It's bulkier but I don't care. All Safety Switches are no gone I put in a Push Button Starter. I mimicked teh Key switch by adding a NC relay in line with the regulator. When the Engine Cranks, it disconnects the Regulator from trying to up the voltage to teh Battery. Not sure if it was necessary but that's the way the original wiring diagram had it wired through the Key switch.
All the things that had no wires to them seem to function when wired up. Hour Meter / Amp Meter and front PTO. The original wire harness was ripped apart so someone wired up Just enough to get it to crank and run.
782, is it me or is the turning radius kind of crappy on these machines? The radius is the same Left or Right so it's not a linkage issue. I was just very surprised how large the radius is. Thinking maybe the Rear axles are posi and that is why they made them turn so wide?
Drew up some Schematics and Wiring Block diagrams last week. Laid out the folding tables and made a harness this weekend. Just a few wraps of tape to keep the wires neat but wont heavy wrap it until I throw a battery on it and run through the functions. While buzzing out the origianl harness and looking at the Colored drawings on this site, I realized the P.O. never had the Voltage Regulator hooked up. No Wire from B+ on the regulator back to the ignition key(or direct to battery). He must have always used it on his small driveway (it was his plow tractor only) and got it back to the trickle charger and never realized there was no Charging system.
All wires are upgraded (overkill). #4 gauge to the Starter #10 everywhere else. It's bulkier but I don't care. All Safety Switches are no gone I put in a Push Button Starter. I mimicked teh Key switch by adding a NC relay in line with the regulator. When the Engine Cranks, it disconnects the Regulator from trying to up the voltage to teh Battery. Not sure if it was necessary but that's the way the original wiring diagram had it wired through the Key switch.
All the things that had no wires to them seem to function when wired up. Hour Meter / Amp Meter and front PTO. The original wire harness was ripped apart so someone wired up Just enough to get it to crank and run.
TONY - Nope, the diff's in CC's are "Open", not a posi.
There's been several different fixes to the wide turning radius, some people swap in the frt axles from later MTD CC's which also have 1" dia spindles, splined steering arms, and steer much tighter. That would be the best fix for your 782.
For the old narrow frame tractors, drilling a second hole for the steering drag link about 1/2 inch closer to the center f the left spindle works well
There's been several different fixes to the wide turning radius, some people swap in the frt axles from later MTD CC's which also have 1" dia spindles, splined steering arms, and steer much tighter. That would be the best fix for your 782.
For the old narrow frame tractors, drilling a second hole for the steering drag link about 1/2 inch closer to the center f the left spindle works well
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Thanks Dennis, I haven't looked at it closely but I was thinking about lengthening or shortening The Box or drag link to change the ratio.
Very surprised.. generally speaking, most tractors have tight turning. I thought maybe someone changed Boxes on mine.
Very surprised.. generally speaking, most tractors have tight turning. I thought maybe someone changed Boxes on mine.
Jeff, correct. The early 70 and 100 both had just the acorn nut like the Original. At some point the 100 got the steering wheel with the center cap. The 70 retained the acorn nut style wheel.
mgwin
Well-known member
Thanks Steve!!
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Rhoda's back:
This isn't funny anymore. This head gasket was supposed to last forever - it didn't last the mowing season.
Nobody has ever taken his time to make sure a head was properly torqued than I did the last time. 3 warming and cooling cycles.
That it's overheating is a given. There's very little grass chaff, all shrouds are in place, and the flywheel fins are clean.
I've cautioned the owner about running it WOT while mowing but don't know if he does.
The K241 has a prominent ring ridge but I've heard no complaints about fogging.
I've got until next mowing season to deal with this, so I see my options as: trying a new head and gasket w/new bolts and studs or - what?
Shoulda painted that thumbnail yellow!
This isn't funny anymore. This head gasket was supposed to last forever - it didn't last the mowing season.
Nobody has ever taken his time to make sure a head was properly torqued than I did the last time. 3 warming and cooling cycles.
That it's overheating is a given. There's very little grass chaff, all shrouds are in place, and the flywheel fins are clean.
I've cautioned the owner about running it WOT while mowing but don't know if he does.
The K241 has a prominent ring ridge but I've heard no complaints about fogging.
I've got until next mowing season to deal with this, so I see my options as: trying a new head and gasket w/new bolts and studs or - what?
Shoulda painted that thumbnail yellow!
lpalma
Well-known member
Mr. Plow...
Nice haban and the 100.I see the hydro lift ,does it work with the sickle bar?
Harry the hydro...
These are what I have the lift rod is not shown,but I see why it is bent, but these spacers have a place,they are 3/4" inside dia.and 1" long.These must go on one of the rods that mount the thrower to it's sub-frame that gets attached to the tractor.
Now if I had a QA 36A thrower it would help.hehehe
I had to get the 106 a little exposure...
Frank C
Did you check the head to see if it was warped before you installed it?New head bolts?
Nice haban and the 100.I see the hydro lift ,does it work with the sickle bar?
Harry the hydro...
These are what I have the lift rod is not shown,but I see why it is bent, but these spacers have a place,they are 3/4" inside dia.and 1" long.These must go on one of the rods that mount the thrower to it's sub-frame that gets attached to the tractor.
Now if I had a QA 36A thrower it would help.hehehe
I had to get the 106 a little exposure...
Frank C
Did you check the head to see if it was warped before you installed it?New head bolts?
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
1650 earning it's keep.
Frank-
I agree you need to check the head for flatness and after that you need to check the top of the cylinder for the same. After the head is trued then place it on the block and check with a feeler gauge to see how flat it is. There's something going on here that will slap you in the face eventually.
I agree you need to check the head for flatness and after that you need to check the top of the cylinder for the same. After the head is trued then place it on the block and check with a feeler gauge to see how flat it is. There's something going on here that will slap you in the face eventually.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Lewis,
The spacers are used to take up the extra space on the thrower frame when the attachment points are slid in to mate to a narrow frame tractor. They are not needed on a wide frame, as the QA mounting ears are the same width as the lower thrower mount.
They would go where it says "lift bracket two cotter pins" on the 3/4" shaft when the thrower was set to narrow frame width.
The spacers are used to take up the extra space on the thrower frame when the attachment points are slid in to mate to a narrow frame tractor. They are not needed on a wide frame, as the QA mounting ears are the same width as the lower thrower mount.
They would go where it says "lift bracket two cotter pins" on the 3/4" shaft when the thrower was set to narrow frame width.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Do-Da - I'm in agreement with Steve on those spacers. I've actually had them on couple "A" suffix throwers in the past that were set up for narrow frame tractors. But I'm thinking now you still didn't get the elusive adapter pkg to use one on a 70/100. The one you have appears to be only for QA narrow frame tractors.
Frank - besides going over all the usual stuff everyone else has mentioned, when you put it all back together I'd sure go for checking the timing as well, using a timing light. I guess I'm a real die-hard for making sure it's right.
Frank - besides going over all the usual stuff everyone else has mentioned, when you put it all back together I'd sure go for checking the timing as well, using a timing light. I guess I'm a real die-hard for making sure it's right.
mfrade
Well-known member
Frank, imho... the carb is running to lean at high speed. check for the correct carb and / or debris in the jets.
A lean setting will create enough heat to burn through pistons. You obviously know to check the fan/flywheel, screen etc. etc.
A lean setting will create enough heat to burn through pistons. You obviously know to check the fan/flywheel, screen etc. etc.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Frank C - I'm watchin' your trouble shooting with the head/head gasket. One of the things I need to totally figure out is engine timing, carb tuning and valve adjusting. I'm not there, but getting up to speed.
Harry B - gave the hydro lift bracket next to the RH foot rest on the 1650 a kick and sure enough, it rolled over to the down position. My hydro lift is good - and fast! I'll be putting the front blade on this tractor, along with chains for snow duty soon. I'm noticing there is a fair amount of speed-up/slow down going up/down the hills in my yard - much more noticeable than with the 109, so I'll be digging into that over the winter. Parts 1250 is already coming in handy, swapped a front tire that always goes flat on the 1650 out with the 1250. Might be some hydro parts will need to be swapped out with it too.
I'm going to try to get the 3 point lift and Brinley hitch over on the 1650 from the parts 1250, I've got a garden I've been waiting to plow for the winter and plant some rye on it. Don't know if I'll get to it this weekend - but that will be a good test for the 1650.
Quick question - #26 and #30 carbs. I've got a few of these from parts engines, some 10, 12, 14 and 16 hp. I know the #26 was used on 10 and 12 hp engines and the #30 used on 14 and 16 hp engines. Question is - are the carbs the same between engine hp? In other words, is the #26 used on 10/12 hp engines identical? Same for the #30 carbs on the 14/16 hp engines or were there specific configurations/jet combinations?
Harry B - gave the hydro lift bracket next to the RH foot rest on the 1650 a kick and sure enough, it rolled over to the down position. My hydro lift is good - and fast! I'll be putting the front blade on this tractor, along with chains for snow duty soon. I'm noticing there is a fair amount of speed-up/slow down going up/down the hills in my yard - much more noticeable than with the 109, so I'll be digging into that over the winter. Parts 1250 is already coming in handy, swapped a front tire that always goes flat on the 1650 out with the 1250. Might be some hydro parts will need to be swapped out with it too.
I'm going to try to get the 3 point lift and Brinley hitch over on the 1650 from the parts 1250, I've got a garden I've been waiting to plow for the winter and plant some rye on it. Don't know if I'll get to it this weekend - but that will be a good test for the 1650.
Quick question - #26 and #30 carbs. I've got a few of these from parts engines, some 10, 12, 14 and 16 hp. I know the #26 was used on 10 and 12 hp engines and the #30 used on 14 and 16 hp engines. Question is - are the carbs the same between engine hp? In other words, is the #26 used on 10/12 hp engines identical? Same for the #30 carbs on the 14/16 hp engines or were there specific configurations/jet combinations?
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Bill,
Your statements about the carbs is correct, and they are the same carb on both engines.
Note: early 14hp used 26 carb as well....some claim that the 26 is the "torque" carb for the 14hp and the 30 is the "hp" carb.........don't know how you'd tell without a dyno.
BTW, anything more than 3 turns out on the main jet on these carbs is basically a fixed jet carb at that point.
Your statements about the carbs is correct, and they are the same carb on both engines.
Note: early 14hp used 26 carb as well....some claim that the 26 is the "torque" carb for the 14hp and the 30 is the "hp" carb.........don't know how you'd tell without a dyno.
BTW, anything more than 3 turns out on the main jet on these carbs is basically a fixed jet carb at that point.
TONY H. - As IH built the CC's, they turned as tight as they could probably turn in most conditions without "Pushing" really bad... to use a NASCAR handling term. To turn any tighter requires slowing way down, or steering brakes like some 982's had... but even they aren't the answer. My 982 slides the inside rear tire when I apply the brake hard enough. No way are you going to make those frt tires not push out in a real tight turn or ever try to get them to pull inside the directon they're pointing.
Modifying the steering arm ratio by lengthening the steering box arm or moving the drag link in closer to the center pivot point on the left spindle does increase the force the steering box has to apply to turn a CC, which does accelerate wear a bit, and if you use heavy frt mounted attachments like a snow blower or frt end loader I wouldn't recommend it. But the "Super-Steer Mod" with the later model MTD axle & spindles is a good modification for your 782, fixes LOTS of problems with the frt axle.
Modifying the steering arm ratio by lengthening the steering box arm or moving the drag link in closer to the center pivot point on the left spindle does increase the force the steering box has to apply to turn a CC, which does accelerate wear a bit, and if you use heavy frt mounted attachments like a snow blower or frt end loader I wouldn't recommend it. But the "Super-Steer Mod" with the later model MTD axle & spindles is a good modification for your 782, fixes LOTS of problems with the frt axle.
