Luther, near as I can tell, the hub caps with the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> logo first appeared around the time of the 1x6/7 series.
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Archive through June 30, 2015
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig,
You are correct in that the 782 was the only model to come standard with hubcaps. I still have the original caps on my No. 1 782, which was one of the last 2000 Louisville built Cub Cadets produced by IH. I have always thought those IH logo hubcaps looked sharp on the 782's, or any Cubbie model. A little bit of bling that really sets them apart.
Not sure if hubcaps were standard on the 982 or not. I think 982's had larger diameter tires/rims, so probably not. I would have to check out some of my literature to confirm that.
You are correct in that the 782 was the only model to come standard with hubcaps. I still have the original caps on my No. 1 782, which was one of the last 2000 Louisville built Cub Cadets produced by IH. I have always thought those IH logo hubcaps looked sharp on the 782's, or any Cubbie model. A little bit of bling that really sets them apart.
Not sure if hubcaps were standard on the 982 or not. I think 982's had larger diameter tires/rims, so probably not. I would have to check out some of my literature to confirm that.
Ron, the 982 did not come with hub caps.
"Long life construction"
Wonder if anyone thought that there would be such a fan club and so many tractors still in use after 35-55 years?
Clark broke this thing. Everyone was helping him find some spark. Then he figured it out and there weren't any other threads going. We still don't know if he got the tractor started.
Wonder if anyone thought that there would be such a fan club and so many tractors still in use after 35-55 years?
Clark broke this thing. Everyone was helping him find some spark. Then he figured it out and there weren't any other threads going. We still don't know if he got the tractor started.
I may have a lead on a 582 that has been washed and waxed often but the owner says that something electronic in the engine has gone bad and he wants to sell it. Model 145582399 Serial 2050598U740690
What can you guys tell me about this one?
What can you guys tell me about this one?
Kraig,
You posted a picture a page or so back, of the Advanced Engineering Proposal for the 70/100, done by Keith Burnham, so here is picture of the actual 70/100 prototype to go with it
also a couple more by Burnham
You posted a picture a page or so back, of the Advanced Engineering Proposal for the 70/100, done by Keith Burnham, so here is picture of the actual 70/100 prototype to go with it
also a couple more by Burnham
lpalma
Well-known member
Cletus,If the price is right I would buy it,I have 2 of them and the 16hp gear drives are great
Kraig,here's a box.
Paul that is really cool,I wonder what the two holes on the grill housing were for?
Kraig,here's a box.
Paul that is really cool,I wonder what the two holes on the grill housing were for?
elamott
Well-known member
129 Engine problem.
I think that I found the problem.
I posted my problem earlier that my engine would bog down when it got hot. After the comments that I received, I went over the top of the engine and found carbon build on exhaust valve and seat, residue on stem and a warped head. I fixed all of that and put it back together excited that I had it fixed. I then put it to work and wrong again, problem still there. I then pulled the engine, cleaned it up and pulled out the piston and look what I found. The cylinder has a carbon build up on about 3/8 inch on the top of the cylinder bore and the piston is scrapping against it. I assume that when it gets hot it will stick.
I have attached pics of the piston where it has been rubbing and the cylinder wall (if they come through). The wall has marks on it but I cannot feel anything but I am going to have it cleaned up. I am hoping that it can be done without me taking everything else out. Has anyone seen this happen before or am I doing something wrong to cause this? Comments appreciated.
Earl
I think that I found the problem.
I posted my problem earlier that my engine would bog down when it got hot. After the comments that I received, I went over the top of the engine and found carbon build on exhaust valve and seat, residue on stem and a warped head. I fixed all of that and put it back together excited that I had it fixed. I then put it to work and wrong again, problem still there. I then pulled the engine, cleaned it up and pulled out the piston and look what I found. The cylinder has a carbon build up on about 3/8 inch on the top of the cylinder bore and the piston is scrapping against it. I assume that when it gets hot it will stick.
I have attached pics of the piston where it has been rubbing and the cylinder wall (if they come through). The wall has marks on it but I cannot feel anything but I am going to have it cleaned up. I am hoping that it can be done without me taking everything else out. Has anyone seen this happen before or am I doing something wrong to cause this? Comments appreciated.
Earl
I just got a 149 in on a deal and have some question's. It has a bad crank and rod. Is the crank from a 12hp the same as one in a 14hp? How bout the rod? I have a parts 1200 here and was going to use those out of it if there the same. Thanks Jim
elamott
Well-known member
129 Engine problems
I have tried to up load photos but I cannot accomplish it. I will try again tomorrow.
Earl.
I have tried to up load photos but I cannot accomplish it. I will try again tomorrow.
Earl.
Jim,
The rod should fit. I just used a rod from a 147 (k321)in my 1200(k301). The cranks are different largely because of the pto clutches. 1200 having electric and the 149 having mechanical. I don't know if the cranks are the same otherwise.
If y'all want something to ponder, my 1450 just stopped charging the other day. Hadn't the time to investigate I plan on doing that Friday morning after work. I appreciate any suggestions for where to start. I'll be temporarily switching the deck onto my 1200 for mowing duties. I plan on pulling the engine and doing the super steering swap and engine cradle mod, at the very least. I also ordered plenty of parts from CCS earlier this year and have many tlc projects. IF work doesn't get in the way...
Hope everyone has a great day!
The rod should fit. I just used a rod from a 147 (k321)in my 1200(k301). The cranks are different largely because of the pto clutches. 1200 having electric and the 149 having mechanical. I don't know if the cranks are the same otherwise.
If y'all want something to ponder, my 1450 just stopped charging the other day. Hadn't the time to investigate I plan on doing that Friday morning after work. I appreciate any suggestions for where to start. I'll be temporarily switching the deck onto my 1200 for mowing duties. I plan on pulling the engine and doing the super steering swap and engine cradle mod, at the very least. I also ordered plenty of parts from CCS earlier this year and have many tlc projects. IF work doesn't get in the way...
Hope everyone has a great day!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Kraig M. Neat pics... Thank You for posting them. Now either you or I need to rescue that 125 that David S. has posted in the classifieds. I almost have enough spare parts to make that little fella a runner again. Only need to get the lift handle or put on hydraulic lift.
As much rain as we've received lately things are starting to see appropriate for this song... Black Water Hatie.
As much rain as we've received lately things are starting to see appropriate for this song... Black Water Hatie.
glippert
Well-known member
Since it's been pretty slow around here lately, I've got a question to fill the space. I like to shut off the fuel valves on my QL 1250 & 1450 when they're not in use, but the valves are mounted on the bottom of the plastic gas tanks. They pull out (horizontally) toward the driver to turn on and push in, away from the driver, to turn off the fuel. But they aren't accessible without removing the side panel - what a pain! Has anyone replaced these fuel shut-off valves with a model that's accessible from the dash? Or maybe one that's under the hood but accessible from above without removing the side panel?
