• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 20, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dtanner

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
6,539
displayname
Donald Tanner
Dennis Frisk

I have to ask this ? does someone make a scanner that I can lay a part on to get dimension so I can have some parts laser cut????? I have a few ideas that I need to start so I can sleep , dang I hate ideas sometimes.
1a_scratchhead.gif
old.gif
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Well I finally got the QA-42A mounted to my 122. I made up a bracket similar to one suggested here (sorry, I don't recall who).

215116.jpg


The pieces, before I removed the "inner" 1/8" piece of bar stock.

215117.jpg


The inner bar was giving me fits trying to get the bracket installed without pulling the engine. May not be too pretty but once I get a longer lift rod, I'm cookin' with gas!
 
Kellyy, Welcome
groupwave.gif
If you have disc brakes your way ahead of the game.
happy.gif

Dennis, I know what you mean sometimes you have to make something, or, screw somthing up real good before you get it right.
 
kellyy,
there are some dual brake pedals f/s in the classifieds, fwiw...
 
The SGT pedals would not work on anything other than an SGT without a lot of reworking. The SGT frame is longer in the middle, so there's room for the pedals behind where the frame flares out for the engine. On any other WF, the frame flares out right where the pedals need to be, so they'd have to be re-bent anyway. It's not really worth the trouble, especially for the price of used sets of those pedals. He's better off making his own like I did. There are some improvements that can be made on them in the form of bronze bushings for the pivots. The SGT pedals eventually wear out and get sloppy and that slop can't be fixed without a fair amount of work.
 
It must be too early. I'm trying to use the look up tables for info on my Original. What key word should be used to do this. Under model number trying Original is not getting me where I need to be. Sometimes I can't hide my stupidity.
 
DAVE R. - Yep, my home-made lawn vac is on either Rev. 3 or 4.

My first design was patterned after an IH #56 or #60 silage blower. It worked so poorly that one afternoon I pulled the pins, unhooked the ignition wire & tube from the tractor & mower and left it sitting in the yard still hooked to the empty cart and finished mowing.

I moved it inside when I was done mowing that day but didn't touch it for months. Finally I took the engine and blower completely OFF the frame, turned them both 90 degrees, remade the removable front blower cover, changed how the grass/leaves fed into the blower and it actually WORKED! Then after about a year, I almost tore my thumb off one night trying to run the V-belt off the drive pulleys while shutting it down. So the next modification was adding an old CC mech. PTO clutch to the drive system. And then I made some modifications to the mower blades to move more air & grass/leaves. I also changed some stuff when Dad wanted the K161 back for his CCO he sold and I rebuilt the old K181 that was in my CC#72 when I bought it.

If I was to make another modification, I'd increase the hose diameter from the mower deck to the blower from 6 inches to eight inches. Small sticks, twigs, etc from all my trees get caught in that hose and plug the inlet to the blower. It also plugs sometimes right at the chute that bolts to the mower deck the hose clamps to but I think the larger hose would help that problem too.

When I first built it I found some hose at McMaster-Carr that was smooth on the ID made from PVC and had a stiff wire wound thru it so it wouldn't kink or collapse. But the PVC would split between each wrap of wire. Black plastic field tile is so much cheaper and works almost as good except for the sticks catching.

DONALD - Sounds like you need a CAD system. Are the parts you want laser-cut big? If they'd fit on a sheet of 8-1/2" x 11" paper full size You could copy a template on a copier at a library or ????, then scan it to a PDF file and e-mail it to yourself. Then you could e-mail it to Aaron or whoever and they should be able to scan & download the part into their laser.

If your parts are bigger than that most newer office copiers will reduce the image size. We had a copier at work that would handle up to 11" x 17" paper and originals as large as 14" x 22".

I've never actually worked with a CAD system but I've e-mailed thousands of prints to suppliers to make parts. Maybe somebody like Matt G or Steve Blunier would be able to help you better.
 
Talking about a rude awakening the other day.
I got dealer pricing on the 50th Anniversary stuff.
It's really pricey!
215136.jpg

They are going to offer 2 shelf tractors. GTX 2154 LE / GTX 2100
215137.jpg
 
Dennis/Donald-

If time is no object (I'm busy with school most of the time, but have some free time here and there), I might be able to turn a sketch into a CAD drawing if it isn't too complicated. When I was in high school I had some things cut on a water-jet cutting machine from CAD models. That got expensive quick...I think for what we were doing it was like $20/part or something like that. It was nice to not have to do any further machining on the parts, but there's a lot you can do with $20/part if you aren't trying to meet a time deadline.
 
Guys thanks
This is a part for a latch and is about 2.5" long .I need 6 made because they are easly broken and can`t just buy the part. They only sell a complete latch $$.I will take a good part and have some cut out in a few days. Raining here by the time I got everything all set up to glass blast it was wet
bash.gif
. I guess I will have to find something else to do I the shop in the am.Might try hand sanding a set of fenders and see how they come out.Rain for the next 3 days.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
MATT G - Like everything else, different methods of cutting "Stuff" have advantages and disadvantages. I had some gaskets cut via laser 14-15 yrs ago from a paper/rubber based material that could not be stamped. There were four holes that were too close to the ID hole and the material would pull and break the ID hole into the four holes. The laser, since it burned the material had no tool pressure, but I had to get MSDS sheets for the laser shop, they had to run tests to see if the material smoked... Took a while but I finally got some good gaskets after trying to have them punched 4 times.

Water jet is a cold process, no heat effected zone like plasma or acetylene torch, or laser. But the width of cut can and does vary on thick material. Edge condition is great with no burrs. Wire EDM is also a cold process, but if you think water-jet is expensive.....

Laser is good for thin material. Parts typically are ready to use right off the table, no burrs, dross, good edge condition, but slow on thicker materials and some highly reflective material you just can't cut.

Plasma or acetylene are both similar, melt the metal and blow it away. Plasma is more precise, acetylene torch has the ability to go MUCH thicker but takes a wider kerf.

There's also the older processes like shearing, which leaves terrible razor sharp burrs, a rough, not totally square cut edge, can distort the cut piece, but is quick on repetitive cuts on thinner material up to say 1/2" thk. Also abrasive cutting, which also heats the material, is slow, not really precise, but you can eventually get through most anything with enough time & money.

I remember a welding job Wyatt did in my shop once for his trailer to haul KRAIG's old Mercury Capri home. It was a gov't job he had his Buddy acetylene cut from some scrap 1/4" or 3/8" steel into a DOVETAIL joint so he could get MAXIMUM weld metal to hold the parts together. I was totally amazed at the great edge condition & accuracy of the way the joints fit together.
 
Yesterday I posted a question about releasing the front PTO on my 129. I found the 6 screws and removed them also the 2 set screws on the pulley behind the clutch. One goes to the shaft and the other to the key. Is it necessary to remove these also to access the clutch? There appears in the drawing to be a collar and lock nut but I don't know how to access them. Also, why is it necessary to release the clutch as in the FAQ photo? I could really use a little help.
 
RONALD - It sounds like you have the PTO clutch, friction disk, integral pulley, three fingers, triangle spring assembly off the pilot bearing.

The eccentric collar is located immediately behind the pilot bearing out on the end of the crankshaft on the side closest to the engine. Loosen the set screws, jam nuts, and with a small punch & small hammer tap the eccentric collar in the hole provided WITHOUT the threads in it at right angles to the crankshaft. It may have been installed "Backwards" so if it doesn't come off with 2-3 taps one way, tap it at 180 degrees the other way. When it comes loose, the eccentric collar should slide towards the engine and the pilot bearing should be able to slide off the end of the crankshaft, then slide the collar off.

If you haven't pulled the clutch assembly off the pilot bearing yet, it's probably stuck on the pilot bearing. I've used a regular 2-jaw gear puller on them before with good success, three-jaw would be better. Or just tap lightly on the pulley with a small hammer.

If all you need off is the PTO clutch, I'd reinstall the set screws in the Starter-generator pulley & PTO drive cup.
 
Ronald B-

Once you have taken all six set screws out the pto should come off of the pto bearing. It make take a little persuasion but it will come off. The locking collar turns to lock on the bearing flange so it must be loosened (set crew) then turned to get it loose from the bearing. It is supposed to be turned the same direction of rotation as the crank to tighten so you should get it loose by tapping it clockwise. I think what you might be asking about releasing the clutch is so the screw holes in the basket pulley line up with the set screws in the pto. The two other set screws you mentioned are for the basket pulley and you shouldn't have to mess with them at all.

Hope this helps.
 
How do you know if a mechanical pto is bad. I put a new thrust botton in but when Iadjust the pto everything is very tight, No give. First one I've done on my own.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top