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Archive through October 20, 2009
- Thread starter glippert
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Home of the Plow Special
Don D.-
That's a neat story, and a great looking tractor. Those fenders look like very stout....something you could sit on. That would be great for a Plow Day!
Don T-
Congrats!
Mark-
I agree with the others. Chains and weights will get you everywhere you want to go in the winter. I can push snow so deep with my weighted and chained 71 that the snow will come over the top of the blade before the tractor loses traction. That's two-sets of 26lb wheel weights and a set of 2-link spacing chains. <font size="-2">(No fluid in the tires, but my #225 in the seat...)</font>
Studs probably wouldn't work WITH chains anyway because the chains would keep the studs from making contact with the ground.
That's a neat story, and a great looking tractor. Those fenders look like very stout....something you could sit on. That would be great for a Plow Day!
Don T-
Congrats!
Mark-
I agree with the others. Chains and weights will get you everywhere you want to go in the winter. I can push snow so deep with my weighted and chained 71 that the snow will come over the top of the blade before the tractor loses traction. That's two-sets of 26lb wheel weights and a set of 2-link spacing chains. <font size="-2">(No fluid in the tires, but my #225 in the seat...)</font>
Studs probably wouldn't work WITH chains anyway because the chains would keep the studs from making contact with the ground.
Art, I agree with your statement:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Studs probably wouldn't work WITH chains anyway because the chains would keep the studs from making contact with the ground.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
EXCEPT for; if the chains are 4 link chains.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Studs probably wouldn't work WITH chains anyway because the chains would keep the studs from making contact with the ground.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
EXCEPT for; if the chains are 4 link chains.
Donald Tanner,
I know its the safetty switch on the brake petal. Just how do I Fix it so the switch don`t work???? HELP I only have a double wire into one plug to go onto the switch and no other wire in site for the other side of the plug.
Throw an automotive fuse in it. Safer than my paper clip.
I know its the safetty switch on the brake petal. Just how do I Fix it so the switch don`t work???? HELP I only have a double wire into one plug to go onto the switch and no other wire in site for the other side of the plug.
Throw an automotive fuse in it. Safer than my paper clip.
Aaytay, my 71 is a heck of a plow tractor too considering that its pretty worn and only 7hp. I did have chains on the tires but they fell apart at the end of the winter 2 years ago and I didn't bother to replace them since most of the snow was over. Then I was laid off from my job that summer and had no moolah to buy a new set for that winter. So I plowed all last winter with no chains. It has the old style turfs with the zig zag tread which you would think would give absolutly no traction at all on snow but with 75lbs on each wheel and my 200lbs in the seat I really didn't have too much trouble. Of course I have a gravel driveway and generaly plow in 3rd gear which does a good job of throwing the snow off to the side. This poor old girl is a real example of the durability these had built into them. The engine smokes but has never let me down, starts right up after setting for 2 weeks in subzero weather. Shes plowed faithfully for me for 4 years now so I think shes overdue for a little tlc.
Ok, thanks for the replies guys but I think you may be under-estimating what kind of hills I am talking about...
From the front of my garage to the back of my garage the hill drops about 10 feet... My garage is about 46 feet long and that is the shallow hill I need to snow blow...
From the front of my garage to the back of my garage the hill drops about 10 feet... My garage is about 46 feet long and that is the shallow hill I need to snow blow...
William, sounds like the hydro control lever tension is out of adjustment. I posted some pages from a manual a few weeks back that cover the adjustments.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Mark:
3/12 grade - shouldn't be a problem, but if it is, plow going DOWN hill
William:
Either don't leave it running, or use this FAQ (the title might be a little misleading, but this is the friction gizmo that keeps the hydro shifter in position - you might not need to do everything in the faq, but it shows a picture of the friction adjustment..)
Boy, I'm getting slow... Kraig's pictures are better, too....
3/12 grade - shouldn't be a problem, but if it is, plow going DOWN hill
William:
Either don't leave it running, or use this FAQ (the title might be a little misleading, but this is the friction gizmo that keeps the hydro shifter in position - you might not need to do everything in the faq, but it shows a picture of the friction adjustment..)
Boy, I'm getting slow... Kraig's pictures are better, too....
Quick question - what is the opinion about restoring and using a spray can paint job? I have sprayed some steel supports black multiple items at work with a couple coats and it seem possible to do a good job with a can on the tractor. Anyone with experience and how many coats? I assume the Cub colors are expensive in the can. Can I go to any cub dealer and get the paint?
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Just my opinion.....
A rattle can paint job may look as good as the OEM paint, but typically won't stand up to a lot of use - it just isn't as durable as a baked enamel finish. That being a given, I've used the oil based tractor paints from (defunct ) Farm and Fleet and now from TSC stores, with pretty fair results, but IMHO a paint job sprayed from even a cheap chinese "HVLP" gun, with a hardener in it will outlast most rattle can paint jobs.. (notice the weasel words "Typically", "may" and "IMHO" to slow the counterattack down.....
)
A rattle can paint job may look as good as the OEM paint, but typically won't stand up to a lot of use - it just isn't as durable as a baked enamel finish. That being a given, I've used the oil based tractor paints from (defunct ) Farm and Fleet and now from TSC stores, with pretty fair results, but IMHO a paint job sprayed from even a cheap chinese "HVLP" gun, with a hardener in it will outlast most rattle can paint jobs.. (notice the weasel words "Typically", "may" and "IMHO" to slow the counterattack down.....
Thanks. There is an autobody shop that had painted older cubs as long as it has been disassembled. I figured over the winter to take them down and put a couple rattle can coats is better than no restoration at this point. This being my first restoration.
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
I wish I hadn't have just done the Van Sickle spray bombs on my CCO/loader. I wasn't going for a restoration anyway, but like Kendell said with standing up to abuse and wear. I'm going to pick up a Harbor Freight gun for the next Cub I paint and get good paint to spray.
If it's just for a worker and you're not stipping it all the way down, I wouldn't have a problem with spray cans again. I might actually do that to a rough 124 of my FIL. He doesn't care if it's painted anyway, but I'd like it to at least have the colors of Cub Cadet. Ace Rust Prevent School Bus Yellow is close enough for me. Not sure what I'll do for white though yet. The Ace paints have the fan spray tip too so it lays on pretty nice.
Hey, I rattle canned my CJ5 with Krylon Khaki Tan matte finish camo paint. Turned out really well. But I didn't much care how it was gonna turn out. It's a trail beater anyway.
If it's just for a worker and you're not stipping it all the way down, I wouldn't have a problem with spray cans again. I might actually do that to a rough 124 of my FIL. He doesn't care if it's painted anyway, but I'd like it to at least have the colors of Cub Cadet. Ace Rust Prevent School Bus Yellow is close enough for me. Not sure what I'll do for white though yet. The Ace paints have the fan spray tip too so it lays on pretty nice.
Hey, I rattle canned my CJ5 with Krylon Khaki Tan matte finish camo paint. Turned out really well. But I didn't much care how it was gonna turn out. It's a trail beater anyway.
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
David R,
Check out Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! threads. Aaron Schmidt put a 2.8l V6 in a 782. You'll have to look through the archives to see what he did, but something about flipping the carrier in the diff and flopping the pump to make it move in the right direction.
Check out Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! threads. Aaron Schmidt put a 2.8l V6 in a 782. You'll have to look through the archives to see what he did, but something about flipping the carrier in the diff and flopping the pump to make it move in the right direction.
Kieth L. I found a color thats pretty darn close to the CC white. It's a Rustoleum Canvas White. TSC sells CC white in a rattle can as well made by Valspar. I dont know if this will help but here it is anyway!
Aaron mentioned something about the 82 series pumps could be turned 180 degrees. I hate to sound this dumb but does he mean they can be turned backwards or can the pump be mounted backwards. I understand flopping the ring to reverse the travel but can the hydro pump be turned in the oposite direction? I'm continuing to search the archives too. Thanks everyone.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) Do I have to? I adjusted the choke and Throttle and connected the FUEL tank and Well it would not start without gas. yup they need that. lol
After a drink it ran right off.and well i`am a happy guy .
Later Don T
Later Don T
