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Archive through October 10, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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nbextermueller

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Nic Bextermueller
"By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 08:43 pm:
Yep, it's Off Topic alright.
"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

By Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 08:34 pm:
Ok guy's (and gal), power steering question. Didn't IH/CCC make 2 different length power steering columns? My off topic 2072 has a really tall column, I though there was a shorter "normal" height version too. I'm I thinking clearly?"

Thanks Charlie, I understand that my 2072 is off topic. I should clarified that I'm converting my ON Topic IH made 782 to Power Steering and want to use an on topic IH short power column.

I was only using my CCC as a point of reference.
 
Nic broke it!
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I'm here, I just don't have anything to say...

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Steve B. Rephased my snow blower drive shaft as instructed and all stays tight - so far. Need some snow for a real test but looks good. Thanks for the help and I suspect others will also benefit from your advice.
 
Here was a late summer project that I just finished up – a nice 127 Cub, S/N 395588 (year built – 1971) that needed some work. The previous owner was a friend who wanted a vintage Kart engine that I had, so we traded even up. This Cub was originally purchased used, to be used for an airport tug, but ended up sitting in a hanger for 20+ years, without being run.

When I took delivery, first step was to rotate engine by hand to see if there was compression (there was), check the oil (had plenty, and was clean too), inspect overall tractor condition (looked clean and tight), then drain the stale gas from the tank. The Carter carburetor was a replacement as it was unpainted and the throttle shaft was not pounded out. The bowl was removed and carb cleaner used to remove some varnish accumulation. After reassembly with a new battery and fuel installed, the engine started right up and ran well with no blue smoke in the exhaust. A drive around the yard confirmed that the transmission worked perfectly too. This was encouraging.

Both the spring steel neutral safety switch lever and hydro relief valve lever were broken and needed replacing. The former was easy, but the latter was a nightmare from hell. I finally got it without removing the transmission, but what an awful job. I’ll take a wide-frame to work on any day over a narrow frame!

It was a good opportunity to equip the tractor with some of my products. It received a PointSaver ignition, new points, hi perf ignition wire, heavy duty tie rod ends, SuperSteer kit, hood edge trim, magnetic oil drain plug, stainless steel footrest screws, and a battery mat. Other items purchased from Madson’s were a new seat, and the aforementioned levers. A new muffler was necessary as the original had loose baffles.

After fitting up the deck and greasing all fittings, I mowed with the tractor for about 1.5 hours and it ran nicely with good power. After getting warmed up fully, I could detect the dreaded balance gear rattle from the engine. I then removed the engine, dropped the pan, and eliminated the balance gears. They were quite sloppy on their shafts and were on borrowed time, thus necessitating elimination. The engine was immaculate internally though, appearing very well cared for. No black sediment or stray metal was found in the pan.

After reassembly, no more noises except for the PTO clutch which has the typical rattle when disengaged. The engine received my standard fill of Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic oil, the lubricant I run in my tractors year-round. The hydro fluid looked nice and red, and about 2 quarts topped it off. The hydro filter was a newer Cub Cadet replacement and thus was not changed.

Final testing confirmed that the tractor runs perfectly and mows quite nicely. And I’ve already got a buyer who is enthusiastic about purchasing it. I’d love to keep this one, but I’ve got two Cubs already (a 107 and 1250) and the garage is bursting at the seams. It was a rewarding project that was fun, other than the hydro relief valve lever replacement – the air was blue that day with creative cursing and swearing, all done at low volume levels to not offend the neighbors.

Some pictures of the finished tractor follow. A previous owner took the liberty of painting all the white parts the wrong color.

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Dave Kirk
 
David you didn't mention the head gasket did you do anything there?
 
David,

That looks like a very nice machine.

I can understand how these machines can frustrate. I know you are a far better Cub mechanic/restorer than me; and I had several of those days such as you had with the release leaver while working on the refurbishing of my 1250 Nightmare. I am happy that this machine has been a fun project for you.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
 
DAVE K. - Looks like you stumbled onto a "Keeper 127" there, but I'm sure you'll make sure it goes to a good new home.

I agree, there's some things about working on NF's that really make you wish for a WF. The front bolt holding the foot rests on the 70/100/71/72/73, etc are another one of those things. By removing the lower frame cover you can see and touch the bolts easily, one per foot rest, but getting the right combination of socket & extension, to remove the 5/16-18 cap screws can be frustrating. You have to get across the lower flange of the frame channel, but on the left side, have to be short enough not to get into the steering gearbox. It normally takes me about 3-4 trips back to the socket drawer to get them out. I often think the Craftsman mid-length socket & short extension would be the "right tool for the job."
 
Another bolt that I find hard to get at on both NF/WF tractors is the front engine mount bolt underneath the axle on the left hand side of the tractor (in the driver's seat). Even with the tractor jacked up, I still find it hard to get a hand under there to start a bolt or I always have trouble finding a convenient method to remove/tighten that one.
 
Dennis: And then they twist off and you smash your knuckles.
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FRANK - A 1/4" ratchet reduces the torque you can put on those foot rest bolts, or just push on a 3/8" ratchet with two fingers. And using a grd #5 bolt reduces the chances of breakage.

RYAN - Simple solution to those frt engine mount bolts, "GEAR WRENCH". Once you have a selection of sizes you'll use them constantly and forget about your combination wrenches.

I've got three sets of Gear Wrenches, an SAE set of five from 3/8" to 5/8", a metric set six or seven from 10 mm to 17 mm, then a BIG metric set of four that includes a 24mm, 27mm, 30mm,& 32mm that SON bought just to get the 32mm he needed for something on the frt suspension of his Lightning. It's hard to find a 32mm wrench of any kind, plus the Gear Wrench is l-o-n-g for lots of leverage.

Nice thing about wrenching on old Cub Cadets is a 7/16", 1/2" & 5/8" wrenches or sockets disassembles about 95% of the whole tractor. Put those sockets on a 3/8" butterfly impact wrench and you can pull a K-series Kohler apart in about five minutes, except for removing the flywheel. I've had them take several hours with the harmonic balancer puller tightened up on them and still not pop loose.
 
I thought everyone knew to pull not push. No scraped knuckles!
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JERRY - Sometimes that's just not possible. But when I have to push, I always use the palm of my open hand, and before I use excessive force I'll try a larger or longer wrench for more leverage, more control.

I can't remember the last time I ripped up my knuckles while wrenching.

SON's spent a small fortune on tools this last year. It was just about a year ago now he was working on something and discovered he didn't have a 3/8" extension of ANY length anywhere. Well now he has MAC combination wrenches from 1/4" to 1-1/4", Snap-On combination wrenches from 5mm to 20+mm, a ton of sockets, both short & deep, SAE, metric, and Impact. Lot of the stuff came off Craigslist locally but quite a bit is new Craftsman. The one thing he bought used was a longer handled 3/8" S-O ratchet with 80 tooth ratchet head, it's only an inch or so shorter than a 1/2" Craftsman. LOTS of leverage. I used it a bit when we removed the engine from the 982 last summer but unfortunately he found it hidden under the seat of my pickup before I left for home. ;-)

I don't make my living with my tools like mechanics do, but I wrench enough that I get decent tools. I still have my original set of WRIGHT sockets I bought in 1973, all the 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" plus the deep versions of all those sizes. I'm only missing maybe three or four out of all of them due to loss or breakage. And my SAE combination wrenches are also Wrights from the same tool set, and I think I still have ALL of them from 1/4" to 1". But I have Craftsman equivalents for everything now.
 
I love all this tool talk. I agree, professional quality tools make it easier to do any job well.

Can anyone tell me if the Quietline series had chrome wheel covers available as an option? I thought they may be a nice touch.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
 
BRIAN - Yep, chrome wheel covers were an option from early on.... think around the 71/102/122/123 vintage, maybe before, maybe later but for sure on Q/L's.
 
Guys , I love good air tools and extensions. I bought a craftsman set that had all the wrenches and sockets in shallow sockets and deep . throw in a set of gear wenches lol. But you can have a tool box full and not choose the best tool for the job. I have snapped off a few bolts , just use the welder and weld a nut fast .I`am slow and steady
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Dennis-

I think you meant to say 7/16", 1/2". and 9/16". I can only think of one place for the 5/8" and that's the charge pump...I'm sure there're others.

I agree about the gearwrenches and have several sets but I still use a lot my Craftsman I bought in the early 70s while in the service. The only thing I don't really like about the gearwrenches are the "slickness" and the possible glare in bright sunlight (ok, two things). They are the wrench to use for the engine mounting for sure.
 

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