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Archive through October 07, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks Charlie. I guess I heard a little bit about it this past spring now that you put it that way.
 
Wiring issue
I went home last night and followed the below wiring diagram for the regulator on my tractor. I had the wires from top to bottom, Gray, Blue and Yellow. It appears from the picture that the Yellow should be on the top and the gray on the bottom, when I did this and then connected the negative to the battery the tractor started to turn over with the key off...

When I turned the key on, the charge indicator spiked all the way to the "C" side or right side of the gauge and made a clicking sound.

Any ideas as to what is wrong or wired incorrectly.

I wired the tractor back up the way I had it (Gray on top and yellow on the bottom and of course the blue in the middle) and she fired up, however it will eventually drain the battery is my assumption.

Please Help...
 
Kevin; The regulator should be marked as to where the wires go. Bat Gen Fld ect. Get the correct wiring diagram and ohm the wires and put them acording to the diagtram. The regulator could have been changed and the Gen Bat Fld ect. could be in a different location as to bottom middle top. After you get it right then take a amp meter and find out what is pulling current.
Go to number 21 in the faq page then on to 60 in the next faq page and it will explain all that.
 
Thanks Luther, I will read the FAQ's and hope that helps...
 
Having a problem putting my Cat0 three on my 682. Anyone have the install instructions, pictures or tell me where the lift bar hooks to.
thanks..Joe
 
Kevin, a PO most likely replaced your regulator as the wiring layout drawing from the Owner's Manual that I posted perfectly matches my #2 125. What's odd is that my #1 125, the 125 that my parents bought new, has cloth wrapped wires and the colors don't match the Owner's Manual that came with it or any wiring diagram I've seen. I know the harness is original to the tractor.
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Here's my #2 125. (sorry about the dust and dirt)

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Here's my #1 125.

95040.jpg
 
Keith:
I'd forgotten about the wayback machine and how the forum's appearance has changed... Some cool stuff- also lots of the same people are still around - I wonder what ever happened to that Bryan guy that posted all those little hints on using the forum ??
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Kraig - how much more disk storage you need than back then?
And - Dennis Frisk - you still feel the same way about Duramax's ??
 
Kraig:
I wouldn't flex the wires on 'ol number one...it'll be raining insulation. Number two looks to have a safe extra coating on it, though..
 
Kraig,
I was the one who replaced all the wiring, and all the other parts... When I looked at the diagram, i read it wrong and wired it with gray on top and yellow on bottom. and it ran, so I thought it was correct... So if it runs but drains the battery, what wire do I have swopped somwhere else, would it be the d/c gauge or maybe the magnetic switch by chance?

Would the s/g be drawing on the battery at a very slow rate? Like I said, it ran really well for about 3 days, I even brought it in the woods to hall wood, I was so excited and now this...
 
Kendell, "ol number one" already has a new replacement wiring harness waiting to be installed next year when the refurb process resumes. You may recall that I started the refurb on #1 but set it aside to concentrate on K4K. #1 is in pieces taking up way too much space in the shed. That regulator photo was in my "before" files.
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My boot drive back then was 4.3GB my current Cub Cadet related files take up around 30GB.
 
Can anyone identify the make of the wheel weights in the picture? Scored them on Epay recently, they were on an old sears tractor. Weigh about 50 lbs each
95047.jpg
 
Hi, I use to post here and lost my password, so now we have a new one, Question , I have a freinds 1450, new motor mounts, rag joints, rebuilt motor, new bushing in the carb, the problem is it shakes at low rpm and high rpm. I dont know if it has balance gears in it. I have tryed about everything to get rid of this problem, does anyone have a idea? I have never seen a cub shake like this. help!!!!
 
KENDELL - I didn't snoop around to see what I said about Duramax's but I can only imagine. I "semi-retired" My '96 F-250 with the Powerstoke in it about three years ago with 290,000 miles on it, has just shy of 296,000 on it now. It now gets an oil change once a year whether it needs one or not...Only gets driven to pickup Cub Cadet gas, an occasional trip to recycle alum. cans or go to Home Depot, and goes to work on the REALLY bad days in winter when We get over 4-6 inches of snow. The last couple years I've driven it less than 3000 miles/year compared to 32,000-33,000/yr before retirement. At this rate it'll last Me at least another 10-12 yrs. So I'm not in the market for a new truck. But if somebody, Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota, even Honda ever makes a REAL 1/2 ton 4WD diesel pickup with a manual transmission I could be convinced to part with it.
The Duramax has been out long enough now in great enough numbers to have proven itself a good engine. A lot of guys with the Cummins in their trucks need to realize that Yes, the Cummins is a good engine, but It's not "Ten Times the engine as the 7.3 PSD" like I saw posted yesterday on another IH forum. I've walked home after being stranded by Cummins engines more than ANY other brand made. Both cases were catastrophic failures where the single instance for IH, Chevy, & Ford were simple electrical problems.

ROB N. - Not sure who made those wheel weights....but I wouldn't be surprised they were sold thru Sears years ago.
 
Here taking a break from the winter wood and installed a rebuilt starter generator on the 147. still no charge went looking and found a bad wire on the regulater. Repaired the wire and she charges full off the scale.??? now i know the starten gen was tested at 13.8 so will this pin the neddle at wot? Now i might as well repair the steering slop.I do have a new wire set here for the 147 and new heaver ground(batery cable link on a big truck)that must be done but just wanted to have the battery up all the time.I want to do all my small repairs in the 147 before the wires. So all new rubber new carb steering battery near completed.Kraiq
is there some information around on my O shifter.Does the shiffing plate have to be removed to get this apart? Thanks Don T
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Don, you'll have to remove the 8 screws holding the shift lever assembly onto the transmission then lift the shift lever assembly off of the transmission. Then you'll have to take the shift lever assembly apart to determine what the exact problem is. It could be as simple as a sheared roll pin or the cup could be broken. A quick search of the forum yielded these and more.

Shift Lever Info 1

Shift Lever Info 2

Shift Lever Info 3
 
Hey, Don ... If your battery was pretty well discharged, I wouldn't worry about the meter needle unless it stays over there for a long time. Don't forget, you've got a 73 trans there to play with.
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