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Archive through October 01, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Heres how I attached the "new" metal to the skids,
66042.jpg

to get the correct length.
66043.jpg

Alind along one edge
66044.jpg

Weld into place except the ends
66045.jpg

Next tool you will need is one of these,
66046.jpg

Heat up metal on the ends
66047.jpg

66048.jpg

Hammer them to follow the bend
66049.jpg

Quench the skid after heating both ends and forming them to the correct bend
66050.jpg

Then weld the ends
66051.jpg

When cooled off enough reinstall on snow thrower.
 
Thanks for the info and reminder of the FAQ's.
Darn CRS kicks in and I cant rember where to look for my answers.
 
129 rattle can refurb. The mechanically restored 44A deck under the first coat of rattle can color application. (after a bit of epoxy weld, alot of heavy build up primer and many different grits of sanding paper with a few beers thrown in).
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The new decals I have coming from CC Specialties will definately put the finising touches on my refurb. of this tractor and deck after a couple more coats of paint. Roland, Richard C. the blow out holes are not forgotten.




66055.jpg


66056.jpg


Richard.
 
Hello there; I checked the FAQ above for paint codes but still have a question. I am trying to find a cross match in PPG or Valspar for cub cadet red,specifically a 782. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Someone say Quiet Kit?

66058.jpg


AFAIK, both the mufflers and the kit are NLA.
 
Lonny - Who taught you to adjust a torch flame ? Some TV movie ?? Turn the O2 down , you're gonna burn all the carbon out of it ! Quenching red hot metal is a sure way to crystallize it ...
 
Kraig -

I see you still pay attention to the ALT= tags
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Pat K.
Tractor Supply has the Valspar it'll say "IH Red" right on the can. Can't remember the number.
 
Recently acquired a 782 and the hydro is strong but usually when I first make a forward or reverse input to the transmission it shudders just a little bit and then it's fine. Haven't changed the trans fluid/filter yet but I stuck my finger in the fill plug and the fluid seems clean and smells okay. I'm still going to change the fluid/filter and clean out the rear end while i've got the cover off. I've manually turned the driveshaft and didn't notice a sheared spirol pin. Any suggestions as to what could be causing it?
 
KenTucky

I did not have the flame that high when I was heating the metal,that was only for the photo shot, and rest asured the metal was not red hot when I quenched it.
I allways cool down any metal I have heated red hot befor I weld it.
It keeps it from melting away during the welding
 
Adrian - It could still be a sheared pin spinning then catching causing that or it might be a rag joint. Since it's easy to do I'd pull the body and look.
 
henri c. and Tom H.

Not exactly the picture you were look for but...

Dad (jnicklas) uses this cubbie:
66061.jpg


to move this boat:
66062.jpg


around in the yard and in the garage for storage....

P. S. The boat weighs 5000 lbs.....
 
Scott, OUTSTANDING !!, I for one NEVER underestimate these POWERHOUSE little machines they are a testament to the superiority of good ol' made in the U.S.A. products, it's just too bad those days are long gone
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Caught the question on Spot. Tedd confirmed a couple plowdays ago that the original battery terminals were eyelets meant for the small battery, and not the big battery lead clamps like all early 100's were fitted with. That, and paint scratch evidence revealing a 7hp oil pan imprint on the frame point to Spot's original identity as (the first production?) 70. sn 65459.
 
TOM H. - I must say that in ALL My days being around equip. I've spent more time on IH's hooked to the Front end of a chain/cable hooked to a JD than the other way around. Only time I remember things being "reversed" was one really wet spring Dad figured He needed to "Stir-up" a wet spot in a 40 acre field close to the road instead of planting around it...so We hooked His '51 M & loader to the 4010-D with every chain & cable We had and I towed Him thru the mud. Some of the ruts were over 2 feet deep! In about two days the wet spot dried out and I disced thru it so We could plant corn.
The old D looks like a pretty good candidate for a restoration. A former co-worker resurrected one about 12-15 yrs ago. It got to be a Money Pit before He was done but it should last for MANY more decades being a Parade Queen now.
 
I'm in the early stages of the 102 restoration and was trying to remove the mule drive bracket. The two rear cap screws have a screw driver head and were near impossible to remove. I suppose being there for 40 years had something to do with it.

Does anyone know why IH would have used the screw driver head for the rear and a hex head for the front cap screw?
Terry,
 
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