Archive through November 20, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
On one of my 125s the center of that float lock button broke out. I've tried a few times to remove the outer part so I can replace it with a new button but it won't budge. Any tips on how to remove one without destroying the lift arm tube?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Don - removing the entire lift arm seems pretty dramatic to me when you just need to install the little lock release button assembly. There must be some type of tool or something that could be wrapped around the handle and used to compress the button into the arm, with something over the grip to protect it.
Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - that little button assembly is only made out of really thin steel, nearly tin like, and it should just peel out with a set of needle nose pliers. Might have to a little bit at a time but you should be able to get it. If that doesn't work then I'd take a small chisel and tap on the edge as if you were cutting the top on the button. If you can get it to partially tear then I think you can peel it out with the needle nose pliers. I would spray it a few times with WD40 or PB Blaster or Kroil or your favorite rust buster.
Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - that little button assembly is only made out of really thin steel, nearly tin like, and it should just peel out with a set of needle nose pliers. Might have to a little bit at a time but you should be able to get it. If that doesn't work then I'd take a small chisel and tap on the edge as if you were cutting the top on the button. If you can get it to partially tear then I think you can peel it out with the needle nose pliers. I would spray it a few times with WD40 or PB Blaster or Kroil or your favorite rust buster.
Tom, I tried that, all it did was break out the thin rim leaving the base in the lift tube.
I've been wondering if a large screw extractor might work to twist it enough to loosen it???
Don, yes I have an air chisel, I may have to try that. Thanks.
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Guys--Very interesting info on that Lock assembly release.
I was just noticing that the one one my sons 125 was missing. While plowing I was bemoaning the fact that the rubber handle kept sliding up and was making it increasingly hard to press the release button down. After closer examination, I realized I was missing that little button assembly on the front of the handle which also helps hold the "sleeve" in place. Thanks for answering that question before I needed to ask it
I did some more plowing with the 125 today and the ground was heavy black dirt that was somewhat damp and it plowed a lot harder than the sandy loam in my garden. I had good weight and traction and the engine power seemed good. However, when I really got into the tough stuff, it would slow right down without spinning the tires and I had to keep pushing the SR lever forward nearly to the full speed spot to just keep the tractor going at I would say about 3mph. I'm not sure if the tires ever did spin. On my Diesel Cub when I'm plowing snow, if I hook the blade on frozen ground it will spin the wheels even with V-bars and weights. What gives? Is there something wrong with the hydro? I'm new to this and just am trying to sort this all out.
I did some more plowing with the 125 today and the ground was heavy black dirt that was somewhat damp and it plowed a lot harder than the sandy loam in my garden. I had good weight and traction and the engine power seemed good. However, when I really got into the tough stuff, it would slow right down without spinning the tires and I had to keep pushing the SR lever forward nearly to the full speed spot to just keep the tractor going at I would say about 3mph. I'm not sure if the tires ever did spin. On my Diesel Cub when I'm plowing snow, if I hook the blade on frozen ground it will spin the wheels even with V-bars and weights. What gives? Is there something wrong with the hydro? I'm new to this and just am trying to sort this all out.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Charlie,
That was from two years ago, I would have gone deeper, if I could pull the plow deeper. Only had turfs on with no chains or weight. It was so wet, i really should not have been plowing, but they were calling for another week of rain, so I figured now or never! Notice in the one picture off to the right, that is water on the lawn in the lower part. YEP, that ground was WAY too wet to plow it properly! I still have to get some ags on the 982 and load them so I can plow the garden properly. I can still get it tilled down about 5 inches or so with the tiller in the Spring on my Uncle's tractor. Can't wait to get it worked up with MY tractor! Put that 2B tiller to work I picked up about 4 years ago that I have yet to try out. Its just sitting in the shed collecting dust. Shame really.
That was from two years ago, I would have gone deeper, if I could pull the plow deeper. Only had turfs on with no chains or weight. It was so wet, i really should not have been plowing, but they were calling for another week of rain, so I figured now or never! Notice in the one picture off to the right, that is water on the lawn in the lower part. YEP, that ground was WAY too wet to plow it properly! I still have to get some ags on the 982 and load them so I can plow the garden properly. I can still get it tilled down about 5 inches or so with the tiller in the Spring on my Uncle's tractor. Can't wait to get it worked up with MY tractor! Put that 2B tiller to work I picked up about 4 years ago that I have yet to try out. Its just sitting in the shed collecting dust. Shame really.
Joshua, that would be caused by wear in the trunion slot on the hydro linkage. There's a bunch of info on it in the FAQ. Here's one of the FAQ entries Note there are links at the bottom of this FAQ page to more info on it, the next page will also have a link at the bottom as will the next and so on for a few pages...
mmiller
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- Michael A. Miller
A couple of years ago I had the chance to measure a pair of CCO headlight brackets and make a drawing of them. Now that I'm ready to fab up a set I can't find the drawing!
Does anyone have the specs on these things handy?
Thanks!
Does anyone have the specs on these things handy?
Thanks!
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
When rebuilding a starter/generator, behind the drive pulley are 2 spacers. One is wider than the other. THE WIDER ONE GOES TO THE FRONT!
When testing said s/g, your good old 10 amp battery charger hasn't the sufficient amperage to turn it for very long and evidently your fancy new microprocessor controlled battery charger isn't really a 12v power source.
Have faith!
When testing said s/g, your good old 10 amp battery charger hasn't the sufficient amperage to turn it for very long and evidently your fancy new microprocessor controlled battery charger isn't really a 12v power source.
Have faith!
Thought I'd beef up the runners on the QA42 and add a little more suface area to the bottom of 'em.
Dave S.
Dave S.
Tom Hoffman
( use a larger "C" clamp to put in the new button. Get it into position and crank it down.)
That is a great idea
I`am thinking of and old socket and put a split in it so I could use my air impact to drive the button in.
( use a larger "C" clamp to put in the new button. Get it into position and crank it down.)
That is a great idea
I`am thinking of and old socket and put a split in it so I could use my air impact to drive the button in.
lpalma
Well-known member
Don T
At $24 a pop I would use the Tom H method.
At $24 a pop I would use the Tom H method.
Lewis Palma
I should explain , The split in the socket would fit over the pin in the C clamp so I could use my air impact to spin the c clamp tight. My old hands don`t have much strength any-more from my two disk gone in my neck. I have used a box-in wrench when I was young to get more torque on that pin on the Cclamp. Now I look to find an easier way lol.
I should explain , The split in the socket would fit over the pin in the C clamp so I could use my air impact to spin the c clamp tight. My old hands don`t have much strength any-more from my two disk gone in my neck. I have used a box-in wrench when I was young to get more torque on that pin on the Cclamp. Now I look to find an easier way lol.
Just don't put the "thumb" button in untill you have the "index"finger button in. You won't have to worry about bottoming out the button. It doesn't take much to push it in there. The splitting the socket thing looks like too much work.
