-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 12, 2012
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Gerry,
After some thought about my previous comment, with the addition of your last observation, the button isn't working any different than that of a throw out bearing in a manual transmission in a car. (Or the very same throw out bearing on the other side of that mighty Kohler in a gear drive)
When u push the clutch, the bearing pushes a spring that disengages the clutch disk from the drive cup.
The only real difference is we drive around with the PTO disengaged and the actual drive clutch engaged so the tractor/car will move.
After some thought about my previous comment, with the addition of your last observation, the button isn't working any different than that of a throw out bearing in a manual transmission in a car. (Or the very same throw out bearing on the other side of that mighty Kohler in a gear drive)
When u push the clutch, the bearing pushes a spring that disengages the clutch disk from the drive cup.
The only real difference is we drive around with the PTO disengaged and the actual drive clutch engaged so the tractor/car will move.
Ron B.
It might help if you would have told that your messing with the hydro pump.
69186C91 = IH Part Number
90-1074 LH = Sundstrand Part Number
04-SD 13079 = Sundstrand/Sauer Danfoss Serial Number
It might help if you would have told that your messing with the hydro pump.
69186C91 = IH Part Number
90-1074 LH = Sundstrand Part Number
04-SD 13079 = Sundstrand/Sauer Danfoss Serial Number
RONALD - The hydrostatic drive unit used in ALL hydro CC's was/is a Sundstrand # 15U, now known as a Sauer/Danfoss #15U.
There have been people who have added drive shafts to the back stub shaft of the unit to drive other hyd. pumps for running loaders & small backhoes. IH themselves even used that stub shaft to run the rear PTO option available on certain larger model of CC's, mainly the model 982, the other models with the rear PTO were built after IH sold the CC line to MTD. So YES, full engine HP is available from the back of that unit off that shaft, minus any parasitic power loss from the unit and other things like the generator/alternator, etc.
One thing to keep in mind is that any drag induced onto the engine from that point can not easily be shut off while starting the engine if cold weather operation is intended. Most people run extra hyd. pumps off the frt PTO so they can engage/disengage the pump at will because of that and other reasons.
There have been people who have added drive shafts to the back stub shaft of the unit to drive other hyd. pumps for running loaders & small backhoes. IH themselves even used that stub shaft to run the rear PTO option available on certain larger model of CC's, mainly the model 982, the other models with the rear PTO were built after IH sold the CC line to MTD. So YES, full engine HP is available from the back of that unit off that shaft, minus any parasitic power loss from the unit and other things like the generator/alternator, etc.
One thing to keep in mind is that any drag induced onto the engine from that point can not easily be shut off while starting the engine if cold weather operation is intended. Most people run extra hyd. pumps off the frt PTO so they can engage/disengage the pump at will because of that and other reasons.
Ryan, yes, taken this morning at work. Thanks.
Ronald, here's an add on hydro pump done by Craig De Long:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I have just added Aux. Hydraulics to a 147 by connecting a 4 gal. per minute pump to the output shaft of the hydro. Seems to work quite well so far. I replaced the tin cover on the rear housing with a 1/4" plate and mounted the pump on the rear of it. Hyd fluid is drawn out of the rear assy., thru a filter and into the pump. Rear housing is acting as the tank and after going thru pump and valve, fluid is dumped back in the rear thru another fitting in the plate. Its a bolt on unit that fits quite well under the seat but you have to remove some of the tin in the under-seat compartment. If anyone knows any problems this can cause the hydro ....please let me know. I'll try and post a photo if I can figger it out!
C. DeLong
Well thanks guys, had the idea in my head for quite a while now, finally got around to working on it. Pump is from Northern, can get quite a few
differant volumes-pressures, all mount same. Valve is three spool eaton 6 gal. per minute. Filter mount is off 85 Ford 6.9 diesel fuel filter, ports rebored and retapped, fitted with napa 1244 hyd filter (for small size). Pump is coupled with hollow shaft bored 5/8" hydro end and 1/2" with key slot and set screw on pump end. Whole arrangement is quite simple to build.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Ronald, here's an add on hydro pump done by Craig De Long:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I have just added Aux. Hydraulics to a 147 by connecting a 4 gal. per minute pump to the output shaft of the hydro. Seems to work quite well so far. I replaced the tin cover on the rear housing with a 1/4" plate and mounted the pump on the rear of it. Hyd fluid is drawn out of the rear assy., thru a filter and into the pump. Rear housing is acting as the tank and after going thru pump and valve, fluid is dumped back in the rear thru another fitting in the plate. Its a bolt on unit that fits quite well under the seat but you have to remove some of the tin in the under-seat compartment. If anyone knows any problems this can cause the hydro ....please let me know. I'll try and post a photo if I can figger it out!
C. DeLong
Well thanks guys, had the idea in my head for quite a while now, finally got around to working on it. Pump is from Northern, can get quite a few
differant volumes-pressures, all mount same. Valve is three spool eaton 6 gal. per minute. Filter mount is off 85 Ford 6.9 diesel fuel filter, ports rebored and retapped, fitted with napa 1244 hyd filter (for small size). Pump is coupled with hollow shaft bored 5/8" hydro end and 1/2" with key slot and set screw on pump end. Whole arrangement is quite simple to build.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
This is my first time posting here...since I bought my 104 new, I have never had it not start...particulalry as related to electrical as is the current apparent situation...so it's probably something dumb...any ideas? I am starting (no pun intended) by looking for service manuals...Any ideas on where I can find the applicable manual...I didn't see any for 104's, specifically, here?
DOUGLAS - IH did the operators, service, & parts manuals by tractor series, not individual models since so many parts, features, & procedures were the same.
Here's the proper service manual; http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Here's the proper service manual; http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Douglas, WELCOME!
Actually you have two puns in your post. Here's the other:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
...particulalry as related to electrical as is the current apparent situation...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Here's a LINK to the area where we have electrical schematics. Once you get to the page, scroll down until you see this text: <font size="+2">72, 1x4/5 Series.</font> The schematic for the 104 is just above the text.</font>
Actually you have two puns in your post. Here's the other:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
...particulalry as related to electrical as is the current apparent situation...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Here's a LINK to the area where we have electrical schematics. Once you get to the page, scroll down until you see this text: <font size="+2">72, 1x4/5 Series.</font> The schematic for the 104 is just above the text.</font>
proessler
Well-known member
Denny, is it snow flurring over your way? I need to get mower/vac & #4 IH cart put away and mount the QA42A & the windbrake. Temps aren't comin' up much!
Kraig's weather is coming our way.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Douglas - are you saying you bought you 104 brand spanking new????? If so was that '68 or '69??? And you've never had it fail to start in over 40+ years??? That's amazing. I have to assume you've changed the points/points pushrod/condensor/spark plug over that time. Fill us in on some details as you proceed to diagnose and solve your problem.
proessler
Well-known member
Douglas, does the starter turn over? Does the engine fire/spark @ plug? (Are there any safety switches?If applicable) Is the battery fully charged? Do Ground wire have good clean grounds?
PAUL - Yes, I took the dog outside about 2 hrs ago and luckily she didn't like those snow flakes hitting her in her face any more than I did so she got right to business and we came back inside!
Glad I mowed & mulched leaves Thursday & Friday and aerated on Saturday. I didn't quite get done and could have finished and then some yesteday but it was supposed to rain "Anytime", which turned out to be about 1 PM. I'll go over everything one more time later this week when it warms up some. I figure I've only poked about a Million holes 3-1/2 inches deep in the yard so far. Two million would be just about right!
Glad I mowed & mulched leaves Thursday & Friday and aerated on Saturday. I didn't quite get done and could have finished and then some yesteday but it was supposed to rain "Anytime", which turned out to be about 1 PM. I'll go over everything one more time later this week when it warms up some. I figure I've only poked about a Million holes 3-1/2 inches deep in the yard so far. Two million would be just about right!
A while back I mentioned I was having trouble keeping the batt. charged.Somone mentioned to check the volt reg,yesterday I was looking at it and I noticed the po had soldered the ground,long story short the wires has only 2 or 3 strands that is still connected. IOts very loose,you can spin the ground wire almost all the way around,I did switch it out with another used volt reg,I hit the key a lil biut ago and it was about dead,I've got the charger on it now,so I'm hoping I didnt have a good charge b4 I swapped them out. I've been wanting to ask you guys this, I did bypass the saftey switch on the 104,I jumped it in the switch,could this be my problem? I'm still somwhat new with all this,but I'm usually good at figuring stuff out.Any advise.
All,
I am really looking forward to sharing experiences with you all here, and I really appreciate the welcoming/help so far...I haven't figured out how to respond to posts yet, if you can directly, so please bear with me. I wanted to reiterate that yes, I bought my 104 new...when I was 10 in '68 as I recall. It has never not started without the most minor adjustments, parts, etc. I must say, however, that my Dad was the one that kept it going, even overhauling it (for almost no reason) once I think. When he died, he left me a second 104 he also overhauled...I have it in storage with some other vintage cars I want to fix up someday. Just before my Dad died he told me to hang onto his 104 at least for the creeper gear in it...he said I would like it. Neither tractor is ever for sale. Anyway, this is the first time that my 1-owner 104 hasn't been started in more than a year...but it looks good! Please know that your tips offered so far have not been wasted...I'm going through them now.
I am really looking forward to sharing experiences with you all here, and I really appreciate the welcoming/help so far...I haven't figured out how to respond to posts yet, if you can directly, so please bear with me. I wanted to reiterate that yes, I bought my 104 new...when I was 10 in '68 as I recall. It has never not started without the most minor adjustments, parts, etc. I must say, however, that my Dad was the one that kept it going, even overhauling it (for almost no reason) once I think. When he died, he left me a second 104 he also overhauled...I have it in storage with some other vintage cars I want to fix up someday. Just before my Dad died he told me to hang onto his 104 at least for the creeper gear in it...he said I would like it. Neither tractor is ever for sale. Anyway, this is the first time that my 1-owner 104 hasn't been started in more than a year...but it looks good! Please know that your tips offered so far have not been wasted...I'm going through them now.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Manual PTO Adjustments:
Sometimes the "match book" gap needs to be much greater, maybe an 1/8". Some tractors with very tight linkages will actually bottom the clutch puck and spring center on the end of the crank when adjusted too tight, causing the same effect as too loose...a free wheeling PTO that won't shut off the implement.
The test for this problem is to adjust correctly, and if it still spins, pull the lever back slowly to see if there is a disengaged spot in the "middle" before it re-engages....if so, more clearance is required.
This has been an issue on several tractors I have owned or worked on.
Sometimes the "match book" gap needs to be much greater, maybe an 1/8". Some tractors with very tight linkages will actually bottom the clutch puck and spring center on the end of the crank when adjusted too tight, causing the same effect as too loose...a free wheeling PTO that won't shut off the implement.
The test for this problem is to adjust correctly, and if it still spins, pull the lever back slowly to see if there is a disengaged spot in the "middle" before it re-engages....if so, more clearance is required.
This has been an issue on several tractors I have owned or worked on.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Dr. Doug: You just figured out how to reply to posts here! Personal messages thru email are done by going to member's email by clicking on their posting name which takes you to their profile. If you want to post pics (which we all love) they can be emailed to most any member for posting (until you've got your feet under you enough to do it yourself).
