lpalma
Well-known member
From the day the Nor'easter that hit on Oct.22nd
Archive through November 10, 2011
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I just got back from Williamsburg, Va. where I picked up a nice 149. If it weren't for the price of gas it would have been a great deal. I could sell only the options and pay for the entire 7 hour trip and tractor but that ain't gonna happen. It sports factory headlights, both tail lights with lenses, and 3pt with sleeve hitch. The seat is decent and it even has the battery hold down. It also has a nice exhaust stack directly out of the side and up complete with flap cap. It did not come with a deck, just the tractor. I'll post pics tomorrow because I'm road weary. I could almost take some moonlight pics with the almost full moon (tomorrow).
Greetings guys... I stopped in a few weeks back with parts questions for an IH CC 122 and am quite grateful for the guidance and assistance. Here's the update...
Parts were ordered and about 5 or 6 man-hours later we have a functional tractor.
Installed a new wiring harness, voltage regulator, coil, starter solenoid, fuel hoses and a filter. Went thru the carb, changed the oil (if you want to call it that, more like goop) and had to do quite the clean-out on the fuel tank. It still looks the same... just, now it runs. Quite tickled-pink about this, didn't quite know what to expect when we started but enthralled with our results.
If you'd like to see all the PICs and a VID that was made today...
http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/18521778_KknLbW
Cheers and thanks again for the help,
Chris & Ernie
ps: again, working on this tractor for another party, so don't know if/when I'll see another of these, or be back with more questions, but this forum will be at the top of my list.
Parts were ordered and about 5 or 6 man-hours later we have a functional tractor.
Installed a new wiring harness, voltage regulator, coil, starter solenoid, fuel hoses and a filter. Went thru the carb, changed the oil (if you want to call it that, more like goop) and had to do quite the clean-out on the fuel tank. It still looks the same... just, now it runs. Quite tickled-pink about this, didn't quite know what to expect when we started but enthralled with our results.
If you'd like to see all the PICs and a VID that was made today...
http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/18521778_KknLbW
Cheers and thanks again for the help,
Chris & Ernie
ps: again, working on this tractor for another party, so don't know if/when I'll see another of these, or be back with more questions, but this forum will be at the top of my list.
Hiliary T.
7.5" long 1" wide.
1/2" hole 9/16" from the end and the cotter pin hole is 3/16", 4 5/8" from the end.
7.5" long 1" wide.
1/2" hole 9/16" from the end and the cotter pin hole is 3/16", 4 5/8" from the end.
Hiliary, well, someone used to, but the forum (IHRegistry) that they had for it went away a while back. Not sure what ever happened to all the S/N info they had collected...
Here are some pics of the 149 I got yesterday. It's amazing how dusk can make things look a little better than they actually are. It's still a good deal. It's gonna take a little more "tinkering" than anticipated but that's ok. The muffler is stock with the tip cut off then made into a stack. It's also toast. The oil is very clean which means absolutely nothing. The draw bar has been heavily welded and the sleeve hitch is warped like a PO tried to lift a house. I think I can fix that ok; I have several BFHs. I do like those old Firestones. I've always liked their aggressive tread design for a turf tire and all four do hold air. I took the sleeve hitch off at a restaurant last night (theft paranoia) and took it in the house when we got back. I think it's a little sacreligious but it also sports a green oriented steering wheel spinner. It will be removed today.
Hopefully it won't be too hard to get running. I'm in the crossed finger stage at the moment over the condition of the engine. I can see where it had wheel weights but I missed out there.
Hopefully it won't be too hard to get running. I'm in the crossed finger stage at the moment over the condition of the engine. I can see where it had wheel weights but I missed out there.
lpalma
Well-known member
Wayne,
Looks to be in good shape,tin is not to bad,I've owned three of these and wished I had kept one,the hydro lift comes in handy when lifting heavy implements...
Looks to be in good shape,tin is not to bad,I've owned three of these and wished I had kept one,the hydro lift comes in handy when lifting heavy implements...
Probably not a bad thing to pull the sleeve hitch off. I picked up 2 mowers early summer and stopped for a quick break to stretch my legs and grab a snack to go. Get back to the trailer 5 mins later to find one guy walking around it and the other driving beside it. They took off when they saw me walking back fast. Who knows what they would have taken had I been gone longer.
That 149 looks pretty fixable. Even if you have to get a whole muffler and exhaust elbow, the tractor looks well worth fixing up. Yes Lew, you gotta love hydro lift with a double-gang disc, tiller, or snowthrower
That 149 looks pretty fixable. Even if you have to get a whole muffler and exhaust elbow, the tractor looks well worth fixing up. Yes Lew, you gotta love hydro lift with a double-gang disc, tiller, or snowthrower
Thanks Lewis and Kevin-
Hydraulics are very nice compared to the alternative (other than electric lift). This 149 apparently has strong hydraulics at that. This sleeve hitch is about the worst I have ever seen without welds breaking.
The third pic shows a little PO ignorance.
Got any ideas as to how to straighten something like this? I'll probably have to cut and reweld it because I can't see how to jig it up in a press.
Hydraulics are very nice compared to the alternative (other than electric lift). This 149 apparently has strong hydraulics at that. This sleeve hitch is about the worst I have ever seen without welds breaking.
The third pic shows a little PO ignorance.
Got any ideas as to how to straighten something like this? I'll probably have to cut and reweld it because I can't see how to jig it up in a press.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
Torch and a BFH and you'll be back in business in minutes...
Torch and a BFH and you'll be back in business in minutes...
WAYNE - To bend that sleeve hitch adapter like that the PO probably bounced the rear of the tractor with something heavy hanging off the hitch in the raised position. I don't think even hyd lift has enough force to distort that adapter like that.
Refresh Update on the 129
Last week I pulled the engine on the 129 to refresh it, after 5 hard years of use since I patched it together in 2006. I was having misfire issues after it got warm, and the problem was getting worse, though making running adjustments would relieve the problem temporarily. As I suspected, the points lobe on the camshaft was badly worn.
While this seems to solve the main issue with the engine, I see troubling problems coming up in the future. When I installed the engine originally, it had been bored .030 over already, and looked to be a fairly fresh rebuild, but had been junked for a bad points lobe on the camshaft, but the piston and rod assembly were good, and the crankshaft was less than .001 under, and looked clean and polished. I installed the best used cam I had in my collection at the time, and it served me for 5 years.
Measurements on this latest disassembly showed that the cylinder had worn .003 over, not a real big deal, but the crank was .005 under top to bottom, and nominal to the sides, a troubling find. I'm not sure it is worth investing another $125 or so into a crank regrind and undersize rod, since the engine is on its last rebuild anyway, so I got a new exhaust valve and had the local machine shop grind and seat the valves. I haven't put the motor back together yet, I plan to do so this weekend and reinstall it, so I can run the snowblower.
In the spring, one option is to pull the motor back out and swap it into the 125 and use it as a backup mower, and rebuild the 125 motor, which is still on its first set of rings, but is having some valve problems, and put it into the 129. Even better would be to find a K321 or K341 to rebuild, but they are as scare as hen's teeth in these parts.
Anyway here are a couple of pics comparing the old cam to the new.
Old camshaft points lobe detail
Replacement camshaft points lobe detail
While I had the engine out I powerwashed everything and decided to try my hand at tightening up the front axle. It was less trouble than I thought it would be, and I squeezed an 18 gauge machine bushing between the axle and the crossmember, which took most of the slack out. I also installed a new front drive pin on the front axle, and tightened up and greased the steering box as well. The old drive pin literally fell apart when I removed the drive cup.
Last week I pulled the engine on the 129 to refresh it, after 5 hard years of use since I patched it together in 2006. I was having misfire issues after it got warm, and the problem was getting worse, though making running adjustments would relieve the problem temporarily. As I suspected, the points lobe on the camshaft was badly worn.
While this seems to solve the main issue with the engine, I see troubling problems coming up in the future. When I installed the engine originally, it had been bored .030 over already, and looked to be a fairly fresh rebuild, but had been junked for a bad points lobe on the camshaft, but the piston and rod assembly were good, and the crankshaft was less than .001 under, and looked clean and polished. I installed the best used cam I had in my collection at the time, and it served me for 5 years.
Measurements on this latest disassembly showed that the cylinder had worn .003 over, not a real big deal, but the crank was .005 under top to bottom, and nominal to the sides, a troubling find. I'm not sure it is worth investing another $125 or so into a crank regrind and undersize rod, since the engine is on its last rebuild anyway, so I got a new exhaust valve and had the local machine shop grind and seat the valves. I haven't put the motor back together yet, I plan to do so this weekend and reinstall it, so I can run the snowblower.
In the spring, one option is to pull the motor back out and swap it into the 125 and use it as a backup mower, and rebuild the 125 motor, which is still on its first set of rings, but is having some valve problems, and put it into the 129. Even better would be to find a K321 or K341 to rebuild, but they are as scare as hen's teeth in these parts.
Anyway here are a couple of pics comparing the old cam to the new.
Old camshaft points lobe detail
Replacement camshaft points lobe detail
While I had the engine out I powerwashed everything and decided to try my hand at tightening up the front axle. It was less trouble than I thought it would be, and I squeezed an 18 gauge machine bushing between the axle and the crossmember, which took most of the slack out. I also installed a new front drive pin on the front axle, and tightened up and greased the steering box as well. The old drive pin literally fell apart when I removed the drive cup.
Matt-
That's the first thing that always comes to mind but this piece of steel goes under such a strain I was concerned with messing up the tempering. Am I too far out there with that thinking? I have plenty of heat and BFHs.
That's the first thing that always comes to mind but this piece of steel goes under such a strain I was concerned with messing up the tempering. Am I too far out there with that thinking? I have plenty of heat and BFHs.
WAYNE - The only "Heat-treatment" those adapters get is from the heat of welding. There's no "Tempering" or anything like that done to them.
They're probably just "A-36" steel, stands for "annealed 36,000# tensile strength, standard mild steel. Heating it with a torch may soften it some but won't weaken it.
I think the way to fix it is to try to take the twist out of the "U" shaped bar. You could try using a press, or a sturdy table or bench, and a long cheater bar on a big cresant wrench.
They're probably just "A-36" steel, stands for "annealed 36,000# tensile strength, standard mild steel. Heating it with a torch may soften it some but won't weaken it.
I think the way to fix it is to try to take the twist out of the "U" shaped bar. You could try using a press, or a sturdy table or bench, and a long cheater bar on a big cresant wrench.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
The original owner of the Keepsake 1950 had removed the nuts on the U shaped piece and replaced the bolt setup with a couple of washers and a pin and small plate on the left side. They left the right side to swing free. I tried to reweld new nuts back in place with my trusty old 50 amp welder. (Hey... it had done other mild steel welding.) The weld took to the nuts only didn't hardly phase the U shape bracket. When Pat Zeroth had the local machine shop make the U Shape Brinly piece for his Allis Chalmers 414 the machine shop owner recommended using a stronger steel. He had seen other homemade hitches made from mild steel and they soon bent and warped. Then the people brought them into him to try and repair or straighten them.
Gary, main difference is the 124 has Quick Attach front mounting points where the 122 has the old bolt on style front mounting points. Other differences would be the dash, steering wheel, grill casting, hood and decals.
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