-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 10, 2005
- Thread starter rbedell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Looks like I may need to invest in a different type of wheel puller. The one I am using is from when my granddad ran a shop in the 50's and 60's. I got the nut off pretty easy but the fly wheel is a different story. I am trying to salvage as much off of these motors as possible without damaging anything. That's one reason I am not using "heat" on it yet. Thanks for the input. Tim H
Larry,
Well if your trying to replace the pins at the ends of the lift arms, that can be done on the tractor. The pins have a mild penitration weld on the back side. Drill out weld with a 1/2" drill and knock out the pin with a punch. Weld in new pins. The roll pins are out so you should be able to stagger the lift arms for drill access.
Amonnia and molasses? Heard of amonnia disolving rust, but I am young feller so mollasses is a new one. I have some molasses, but use it for BBQ.
I have always had luck with keeping a shaft very cold and the collar hot (red hot).
There might so much rust and paint that the increase in gap from heat vs cold might not be enough. Getting the parts down to bare metal is only going to help. Dissolving the rust and stripping the paint with acids, chemicals, etc.
Did you try Navel Jelly? Slather is on good and cover with platic wrap over night.
Can you post any photos?
jim
Well if your trying to replace the pins at the ends of the lift arms, that can be done on the tractor. The pins have a mild penitration weld on the back side. Drill out weld with a 1/2" drill and knock out the pin with a punch. Weld in new pins. The roll pins are out so you should be able to stagger the lift arms for drill access.
Amonnia and molasses? Heard of amonnia disolving rust, but I am young feller so mollasses is a new one. I have some molasses, but use it for BBQ.
I have always had luck with keeping a shaft very cold and the collar hot (red hot).
There might so much rust and paint that the increase in gap from heat vs cold might not be enough. Getting the parts down to bare metal is only going to help. Dissolving the rust and stripping the paint with acids, chemicals, etc.
Did you try Navel Jelly? Slather is on good and cover with platic wrap over night.
Can you post any photos?
jim
Gotta love it whe you find NOS parts with the original metal PN tag attached.
lelder
Active member
JIM:
The rock shaft arms are welded to a tube between them, the lift bracket is a "J" shape arm between the outside rock shaft arm and frame is movable that yokes over an arm that operates rock shaft , pins go through the lift bracket to move it. The only exposed part of the center shaft is on the ends so paint build up is not an issue, it would appear that the center shaft is rusted to the inside of tube which prevents much PBB penetration, heating really don’t have much of a chance without also heating the center. I’m sure this is confusing without seeing it. I think I will just replace pins as you suggest just thought I could free up the parts too. Thanks for your replies
The rock shaft arms are welded to a tube between them, the lift bracket is a "J" shape arm between the outside rock shaft arm and frame is movable that yokes over an arm that operates rock shaft , pins go through the lift bracket to move it. The only exposed part of the center shaft is on the ends so paint build up is not an issue, it would appear that the center shaft is rusted to the inside of tube which prevents much PBB penetration, heating really don’t have much of a chance without also heating the center. I’m sure this is confusing without seeing it. I think I will just replace pins as you suggest just thought I could free up the parts too. Thanks for your replies
Bruce,
Bruce M,
I think we all do!
But once and a while you get one that looks goofy but works great too!
I think we all do!
But once and a while you get one that looks goofy but works great too!
B
bnemec
Guest
Help My Cub 149 will not start. Battery ok No spark. Should I get a spark trying to grd coil wire? I do not get a spark when grounding plug. Can anyone give me a step by step isolating what can be wrong. Was running fine a few weeks ago. Points move in and out so they are not frozen. No spark when they close. When I was grinding away I did notice the coil got extremely hot?
Bob, if there is no spark at the points, you might have a bad coil. If you have a known good coil put that on there, one other thing is your points might be out of adjustment. Last time I lost spark, I measured the points gap and it was way off so I adjusted them and it worked like a charm. I'm sure someone else will chime in with how to test a coil with a multimeter, It has just slipped my mind right now.
B
bnemec
Guest
ok! Not getting 12v at coil. Put on a jumper from battery to coil and started. Now what?
Bob --
I have experienced that many times. Once it was the switch and the rest of the time is was that the wire had corroded inside its insulation and broken apart. Once I fixed it by running a separate wire back to the switch but others got new harnesses. Heck once just to get the mowing finished I mashed a couple of alligator clips onto the ends of a piece of wire and clipped one end to the battery clamp's bolt head and the other to the coil. Had to unclip it to kill the engine.
I have experienced that many times. Once it was the switch and the rest of the time is was that the wire had corroded inside its insulation and broken apart. Once I fixed it by running a separate wire back to the switch but others got new harnesses. Heck once just to get the mowing finished I mashed a couple of alligator clips onto the ends of a piece of wire and clipped one end to the battery clamp's bolt head and the other to the coil. Had to unclip it to kill the engine.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
This is almost funny. I just this afternoon did a search here for 129 wiring diagram and came up with and printed last post before it bacame last post. I'm playing with a 128 that strayed into my possession in a package deal and decided today to see if it would start. I've stripped it down to pretty much frame and engine. To make a long story short, unless the solenoid is grounded it just don't work! I knew that, just had to be reminded, I guess. A weak spark, an overflowing carb, and the old beast started. Can nothing short of a rod coming out through the block kill these old Kohlers??? While I'm here, I might's well mention that I have both Hank's and Kenneth's books and feel they're a must for the enthusiast. The internet is great, but a book can be forever.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
#$^%^%#$@# Bendix starters.......6 months ago the spiral gear was 100% clean (brushed with brass wire brush, brake cleaner, etc. and lubed with a DRY film lubricant).......over the last month the 782 has missed a start or two, and gotten progressivly worse. Today I went out to pull it in to address the starting issue and guess what????.......nothing but "whrrrrrrr....whrrrrrr......whrrrr"!!!!! Battery is full strength and constantly on a trickle charger, still, no dice!!!!!! Looks like I get to pull some sheetmetal from the confines of the shed to get it going again.
At least with a S/G you could roll them over by hand to help them along........can't hardly even get a screw driver in there to push the bendix out on an 82 series.
At least with a S/G you could roll them over by hand to help them along........can't hardly even get a screw driver in there to push the bendix out on an 82 series.
Steve,
I'll loan you my BFH if ya need it!
BTW, is this what they call a 2 stage snow thrower?
(Message edited by cproctor on November 12, 2005)
I'll loan you my BFH if ya need it!
BTW, is this what they call a 2 stage snow thrower?
(Message edited by cproctor on November 12, 2005)
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Steve B.
My 782 did that when I got it in 2003, I don't know what you used but I sprayed it with TDL (Teflon dry lubricant). I have never had any more trouble with it. I have used TDL on door locks and it works great. They also make a garage door lubricant.
My 782 did that when I got it in 2003, I don't know what you used but I sprayed it with TDL (Teflon dry lubricant). I have never had any more trouble with it. I have used TDL on door locks and it works great. They also make a garage door lubricant.
