I know the S/G wont work from that old Allis, but would the internals work, ie. the brushes and poles? I'm going up to "borrow" the parts on Tuesday. My uncle said it was still there and I can have at it. There are a couple of other tractors up there too but I'm unsure at this time what they are. I think one of them is a early 50's wheelhorse. Are there any other S/G's from other companies that will work or are the cubs the only ones that ran them backwards?
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Archive through November 08, 2008
- Thread starter sstanton
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Paul B.
Now throw him for a loop and post a pic of the GREEN one!
Now throw him for a loop and post a pic of the GREEN one!
Charlie,
I can do that
Matthew
409 has more differences from production tractors than the others, but not many. 510 and the other test tractors that are known (505, 515, 516, 518, 522, and a couple more) and 556 are pretty much the same as production models, although there are some minor diferences mainly in the grill castings and dash that are suttle enough that you have to see them side by side to notice them.
I can do that
Matthew
409 has more differences from production tractors than the others, but not many. 510 and the other test tractors that are known (505, 515, 516, 518, 522, and a couple more) and 556 are pretty much the same as production models, although there are some minor diferences mainly in the grill castings and dash that are suttle enough that you have to see them side by side to notice them.
Hi all:
Been gone for a few days. It sounds unanimous, I'll look into rebuilding the engine. Although I like to build things instead of rebuilding things. In the FAQs I think I read that Hytran should go in the transaxle. Is this true? I had to replace an axle seal and there was gear oil in it.
Been gone for a few days. It sounds unanimous, I'll look into rebuilding the engine. Although I like to build things instead of rebuilding things. In the FAQs I think I read that Hytran should go in the transaxle. Is this true? I had to replace an axle seal and there was gear oil in it.
John V.
If your talking about your 124.Since your in the cold like I am, I'd go with the Hytran if you use your machine in the winter.
(1) HyTran Ultra
(2) SAE 30 is another option for gear drives.
http://cubfaq.com/lubricants.html
If your talking about your 124.Since your in the cold like I am, I'd go with the Hytran if you use your machine in the winter.
(1) HyTran Ultra
(2) SAE 30 is another option for gear drives.
http://cubfaq.com/lubricants.html
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- Brian Branstetter
Oow. I stand corrected.
<font size="-2">Keith,Kendall,Kraig,Ken,Kentucky......who was it again?</font>
<font size="-2">Keith,Kendall,Kraig,Ken,Kentucky......who was it again?</font>
Scott S.
Do a search for 409 whole words only and you'll find many post that Paul has posted that gives all the info on it.
Do a search for 409 whole words only and you'll find many post that Paul has posted that gives all the info on it.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Yesterday I was putting a headlight set I had on the shelf in one of my tractors when I noticed that the the wires leading from the switch to the headlights were all cracked and ratty.
I went to Mendards to get some more ring-terminals and found this.
<font size="-2">I didn't know they made it in yellow</font>
At nearly a $1/foot, the stuff isn't cheap, but I'd say it does a pretty good job of replicating the factory lighting wires.
On another note, here's a Public Service Announcement for anyone who's been on this forum for less than a year... <font size="-2">(give or take)</font>
Charlie eluded to this yesterday and for once the old coot is starting to make some sense, so I thought I would say it again, but with some pictures.
I spent most of the weekend tearing down this old 100 I have here.
I took everything out of it. The engine, transmission, steering gear, clutch, etc.
The tractor was complete, and ran fine, but there were some details that just weren't "right" with it. Little things that always seemed to mess with me whenever I wanted to use it, so I decided to fix it and make a good strong worker out of it.
I'm not restoring the tractor, but just going through it to fix all of the little knick-knacks that are "wrong". Some of this will require new parts to fix, and some is just more of a clean up/readjust situation.
The part I think is important to mention (again) is the fact that if you have a tractor which has been giving you nagging problems along the way everytime you use it, you may want to do this very same thing. Tear it down, and get everything back up to snuff so it works right. I've probably owned about 30 of these tractors over the years, and honestly I can count on one hand the number of tractors that didn't need this kind of treatment, so you're not alone in this situation.
My goal is to have a good running tractor (with some added options) that I know I can hop on, turn the key, and use for whatever work I have for it.
I went to Mendards to get some more ring-terminals and found this.
<font size="-2">I didn't know they made it in yellow</font>
At nearly a $1/foot, the stuff isn't cheap, but I'd say it does a pretty good job of replicating the factory lighting wires.
On another note, here's a Public Service Announcement for anyone who's been on this forum for less than a year... <font size="-2">(give or take)</font>
Charlie eluded to this yesterday and for once the old coot is starting to make some sense, so I thought I would say it again, but with some pictures.
I spent most of the weekend tearing down this old 100 I have here.
I took everything out of it. The engine, transmission, steering gear, clutch, etc.
The tractor was complete, and ran fine, but there were some details that just weren't "right" with it. Little things that always seemed to mess with me whenever I wanted to use it, so I decided to fix it and make a good strong worker out of it.
I'm not restoring the tractor, but just going through it to fix all of the little knick-knacks that are "wrong". Some of this will require new parts to fix, and some is just more of a clean up/readjust situation.
The part I think is important to mention (again) is the fact that if you have a tractor which has been giving you nagging problems along the way everytime you use it, you may want to do this very same thing. Tear it down, and get everything back up to snuff so it works right. I've probably owned about 30 of these tractors over the years, and honestly I can count on one hand the number of tractors that didn't need this kind of treatment, so you're not alone in this situation.
My goal is to have a good running tractor (with some added options) that I know I can hop on, turn the key, and use for whatever work I have for it.
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Speaking of options...
Hey Paul. Do you remember that creeper you sold me about 2-3 years ago?
Hey Paul. Do you remember that creeper you sold me about 2-3 years ago?
rvanmersbergen
Well-known member
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- Ray Van Mersbergen
Hey All,can any of you correct police out there tell me if fenders was an option on an "O" with serial #1864? Just kidding about correct police thing I ment to say knowledgeable individuals. Thanks in advance!
Ray, fenders were never standard on any Original, only available as an option.
Art, nice find on the heat shrink! Would you consider selling me a foot or two of that?
What if I say "Please!"
BTW, Fleet Farm sells wire that is a dead ringer shade of yellow for wiring Cub Cadet lights, but I bet you already knew that.
Art, nice find on the heat shrink! Would you consider selling me a foot or two of that?
Eureka!!!! After clawing through all the wiring, checking the S/G, "checking" the coil (thats for Charlie!)
. It all boiled down to a voltage regulator. At least that didnt get me like the coil!!!! Would it be better to adjust the darn thing or better off to put a new one on?
On the early models of the Cub Cadet, everything other than the basic tractor was an option, including electric start on the Original, 70, 71, 72.
Art,
I remember selling you a creeper, even had a part or two (knob and shifter extension) shipped from Madson's directly to you, to make it complete, IIRC,........ however if there is something wrong with it, I don't know anything about it, never saw it, don't know what you are talking about, and what is a creeper anyway?
Art,
I remember selling you a creeper, even had a part or two (knob and shifter extension) shipped from Madson's directly to you, to make it complete, IIRC,........ however if there is something wrong with it, I don't know anything about it, never saw it, don't know what you are talking about, and what is a creeper anyway?
ART - Really nice looking 100. Wish My 70 looked that good. I normally keep a supply of heat shrink around the shop. Local Harbor Freight store has bags of assorted sizes about a foot long in different colors for each size, the normal black, red, white, but no yellow. Place I worked about 10 yrs ago used to buy it in 50 & 100 ft rolls. I always had plenty then when Son & I were R/C racing.
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Paul-
I'll let you know after I get everything back together if it goes "boing" when I first use it. If it does, I'll expect a full-refund as I've kept my receipt.
Kraig-
Yep, I forgot to mention that I picked up a spool of #12 wire from FLEET FARM as well.
Tell ya what, I'll GIVE you a section of that shrink tube the next time we go grouse hunting or target shooting at your place.
I'll let you know after I get everything back together if it goes "boing" when I first use it. If it does, I'll expect a full-refund as I've kept my receipt.
Kraig-
Yep, I forgot to mention that I picked up a spool of #12 wire from FLEET FARM as well.
Tell ya what, I'll GIVE you a section of that shrink tube the next time we go grouse hunting or target shooting at your place.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
On the Voltage Regulator subject, over the weekend I found how easy it is to burn a little wire off one of the contacts. The contact on the right, as you're looking at it, has the wire burned off -- I'm not smart enough to draw a little circle around it. Also, the V/R has to have a good ground.
