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Archive through November 06, 2009
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Matt,
I can't get my sorry computer to shrink my photos. The only way I can is when I send an email to someone. Any suggestions?<center><table border=1><tr><td>
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I can't get my sorry computer to shrink my photos. The only way I can is when I send an email to someone. Any suggestions?<center><table border=1><tr><td>
078 (2).url (0.3 k)</td></tr></table></center>
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
OK I'm board and theres no action on here ssooo... in case anyone is interested this was my latest project that i officially finished last week (minus a seat):
I received a call about a tractor that had been sitting in a guy's yard where it had died "years ago" he told me you can have it for the scrap value, so when i arrived later that week i saw a poor ol' 149 sitting in the weeds, the first thing i noticed was the gear box on the rear, i ended up paying the guy $50 for the tractor and another $50 for the barely used 1A tiller which had been sitting in his garage (it tool some persuasion,he didn't want to let it go!) here's a pic of what it looked like when we dragged it up on the truck after breaking a come along in the process.
after we got it home and unloaded i discovered that the motor was locked... so the first thing i did was pull the motor and pressure wash!
here is a before
During
and after! what a difference 2500 PSI makes!
ok hold you breath im gonna put the rest in another post.
I received a call about a tractor that had been sitting in a guy's yard where it had died "years ago" he told me you can have it for the scrap value, so when i arrived later that week i saw a poor ol' 149 sitting in the weeds, the first thing i noticed was the gear box on the rear, i ended up paying the guy $50 for the tractor and another $50 for the barely used 1A tiller which had been sitting in his garage (it tool some persuasion,he didn't want to let it go!) here's a pic of what it looked like when we dragged it up on the truck after breaking a come along in the process.
after we got it home and unloaded i discovered that the motor was locked... so the first thing i did was pull the motor and pressure wash!
here is a before
During
and after! what a difference 2500 PSI makes!
ok hold you breath im gonna put the rest in another post.
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
Motor:
i tore into the motor expecting something bad because the PO had told me he removed the head and saw the piston was cracked...
upon first inspection i saw this!
those rats build em good!
at this point i still had no idea what was inside the motor, however i did know that there was a fare amount of water in the oil when i drained it.
i took the head off and saw this!!!
that PO is nuts if he thought that was a crack!
but anyways i figured that was what was holding the crank from turning so i took the oil pan off to find the top of the piston
i then removed the rod cap bolts thinking that would free the crank...WRONG! i went on to discover that a build up of rat droppings and urine had fallen behind the flywheel and turned rock hard! and i mean rock hard!
that's how it looked after a lot of chipping, but i ended up getting a big puller and pulling the flywheel then cleaning it up. after the flywheel was off it spun fine!
here's a look at whats left of the piston.
and while i was in the motor looking for why it did this i found the root of all evil!! the governor gear!
my best guess is the governor went while it was running and caused an over rev.
after that i slapped a rebuild kit in it and it was brought back to life for the first time in over 8 years... it didn't have a battery for it but i just had to take it for a spin around the block!
it was kinda hard to burn tire, balance on that board, steer operate the hydro and make sure that battery didn't fall!
but that pretty much sums up my last project... hope ya all liked it
i tore into the motor expecting something bad because the PO had told me he removed the head and saw the piston was cracked...
upon first inspection i saw this!
those rats build em good!
at this point i still had no idea what was inside the motor, however i did know that there was a fare amount of water in the oil when i drained it.
i took the head off and saw this!!!
that PO is nuts if he thought that was a crack!
but anyways i figured that was what was holding the crank from turning so i took the oil pan off to find the top of the piston
i then removed the rod cap bolts thinking that would free the crank...WRONG! i went on to discover that a build up of rat droppings and urine had fallen behind the flywheel and turned rock hard! and i mean rock hard!
that's how it looked after a lot of chipping, but i ended up getting a big puller and pulling the flywheel then cleaning it up. after the flywheel was off it spun fine!
here's a look at whats left of the piston.
and while i was in the motor looking for why it did this i found the root of all evil!! the governor gear!
my best guess is the governor went while it was running and caused an over rev.
after that i slapped a rebuild kit in it and it was brought back to life for the first time in over 8 years... it didn't have a battery for it but i just had to take it for a spin around the block!
it was kinda hard to burn tire, balance on that board, steer operate the hydro and make sure that battery didn't fall!
but that pretty much sums up my last project... hope ya all liked it
On the subject of mouse nests... This summer, I brought home a '69 Impala with a 396 that had been sitting in my uncle's barn yard since '78. Mice had gone all the way up the tailpipe, through the muffler, through the exhaust manifold, through the open exhaust valve, and set up housekeeping in the number 4 cylinder. Jerry
To the folks who have built articulating cubs. Has anyone ever used a hydraulic motor to turn the front rear instead of a drive shaft? I'm Thinking of building a cub grader with two hydros in the rear and a Case rear that uses a hydraulic motor for driving the wheels at the front of the grader. I think I can position an engine over top of the back cub hydros and add another pump to help supply the added hydraulic for all the cylinders and the front drive motor. Any thoughts?
David,
Got a couple thoughts on driving the front with a hydraulic motor... You'll need flow to the front motor to be proportional to the to the rear wheel speed. This means that you either need to drive the pump supplying that motor at a speed proportional to rear wheel speed or you need a way to adjust flow rate to the front motor proportionally to rear wheel speed. The former requires separate pumps for the cylinders and front motor. The latter is expensive unless you get really lucky and mechanically connecting the Case flow control (speed valve) to the hydrostat linkage will match your speeds all the way through the range of travel. I doubt that will happen. If mechanically connecting the flow control to the hydrostat linkage works, the second problem may take care of itself. That is, when you put the hydrostat in reverse, you need to reverse flow to the hydraulic motor. If you're driving the pump using anything from the countershaft to the ring gear, the pump will reverse when the hydrostat reverses. Most pumps won't pump when you reverse them. Some will pump, but flow is in the same direction no matter which way the pump turns. You need a pump that has two outputs and is internally valved to reverse flow when rotation is reversed. Once the flow rate and direction is taken care of, all you have to do is size the hydraulic motor to match the front and rear wheel speeds.
I've been kicking this one around for a month or two. I'd like to build a hydraulic front drive assist that could be sold as a kit for hydrostats and gear drives. Making it affordable from new parts is not easy.
Jerry
Got a couple thoughts on driving the front with a hydraulic motor... You'll need flow to the front motor to be proportional to the to the rear wheel speed. This means that you either need to drive the pump supplying that motor at a speed proportional to rear wheel speed or you need a way to adjust flow rate to the front motor proportionally to rear wheel speed. The former requires separate pumps for the cylinders and front motor. The latter is expensive unless you get really lucky and mechanically connecting the Case flow control (speed valve) to the hydrostat linkage will match your speeds all the way through the range of travel. I doubt that will happen. If mechanically connecting the flow control to the hydrostat linkage works, the second problem may take care of itself. That is, when you put the hydrostat in reverse, you need to reverse flow to the hydraulic motor. If you're driving the pump using anything from the countershaft to the ring gear, the pump will reverse when the hydrostat reverses. Most pumps won't pump when you reverse them. Some will pump, but flow is in the same direction no matter which way the pump turns. You need a pump that has two outputs and is internally valved to reverse flow when rotation is reversed. Once the flow rate and direction is taken care of, all you have to do is size the hydraulic motor to match the front and rear wheel speeds.
I've been kicking this one around for a month or two. I'd like to build a hydraulic front drive assist that could be sold as a kit for hydrostats and gear drives. Making it affordable from new parts is not easy.
Jerry
PAUL D. - Maybe if I ask REAL nice KRAIG can post a pic of my home-made aerator hooked to My 982. I used the 72 yesterday afternoon, the aerator isn't really wide enough for the 982.
Many over at the forum dedicated to those little green tractors say my aerator "doesn't work" because it doesn't pull plugs of dirt out and drop them on the ground. Whatever!?!? I know where I turn on the sides of the yard I really get the ground loosened up which is what I'm trying to do isn't it?
PAUL R. - My aerator has seven wheels, all independent on a 1" dia. shaft, the six spikes on each wheel are about 3 to 3-1/2 inches long welded to a separate hub, and about 6-1/2" apart and about a foot in diameter so I get a hole 3+ inches deep about every six inches. I really need to increase the thing to nine wheels, add another wheel to each end, that would make it about 44-45 inches wide. Just right for the 982 but I could still pull it fine with the 72.
The hitch on the aerator pins to the sleeve hitch so I can raise it clear of the ground. There's a pair of wheels on the back that carry the weight when raised. I'm running it light this year, the ground is damp and soft so I only have about 200-225# on the thing. I have used it with over 350# before when the ground was dry & hard. I used to pull it in 2nd gear with the 72 but I don't think it penetrated as deep so I run in 1st now. I wasn't able to get the aerating done the last two years so I may do it twice. I have a little fertilizer to spread. I haven't fertilized ANY for something like 14-15 yrs. I think my grass is actually in better shape now with aerating in the fall & watching thatch build-up than when We bought this place 17-18 yrs ago. The prior owners had Tru-Green or Chem-Lawn or ??? spray & fertilize 4 times a year.
Been a few times years ago I aerated thru about 3-4 inches of snow, I still had the 6-12 GY turf's on the 72 and traction was marginal at best. 9 yrs ago I was using the 982 to pull the aerator late one night and it started snowing so hard I could barely see the house from the far corners of the yard.
Many over at the forum dedicated to those little green tractors say my aerator "doesn't work" because it doesn't pull plugs of dirt out and drop them on the ground. Whatever!?!? I know where I turn on the sides of the yard I really get the ground loosened up which is what I'm trying to do isn't it?
PAUL R. - My aerator has seven wheels, all independent on a 1" dia. shaft, the six spikes on each wheel are about 3 to 3-1/2 inches long welded to a separate hub, and about 6-1/2" apart and about a foot in diameter so I get a hole 3+ inches deep about every six inches. I really need to increase the thing to nine wheels, add another wheel to each end, that would make it about 44-45 inches wide. Just right for the 982 but I could still pull it fine with the 72.
The hitch on the aerator pins to the sleeve hitch so I can raise it clear of the ground. There's a pair of wheels on the back that carry the weight when raised. I'm running it light this year, the ground is damp and soft so I only have about 200-225# on the thing. I have used it with over 350# before when the ground was dry & hard. I used to pull it in 2nd gear with the 72 but I don't think it penetrated as deep so I run in 1st now. I wasn't able to get the aerating done the last two years so I may do it twice. I have a little fertilizer to spread. I haven't fertilized ANY for something like 14-15 yrs. I think my grass is actually in better shape now with aerating in the fall & watching thatch build-up than when We bought this place 17-18 yrs ago. The prior owners had Tru-Green or Chem-Lawn or ??? spray & fertilize 4 times a year.
Been a few times years ago I aerated thru about 3-4 inches of snow, I still had the 6-12 GY turf's on the 72 and traction was marginal at best. 9 yrs ago I was using the 982 to pull the aerator late one night and it started snowing so hard I could barely see the house from the far corners of the yard.
David, Jerry, Back in the 60's Oliver, mabey others but thats the one I remember. Came out with a hydraulic front wheel assist. My dad ran one. They didn't get it right. It bounced all the way across the field and about every 20 minutes he'd have to stop cause it got so hot it would quit. Soured him on FWA for the rest of his life. I drove a 7120 for a few seasons and didn't expirience any bad habits. One more reason that gear drives are better,
morning, have a nice day.
DAVE R. - JD must have copied the hyd. FWA they offered on the late 4020/4430's from Oliver. It was WAY too hard to pick up power from the JD rearend so hyd. was the only way they could go. They are a "Race and Collectable tractor" now but worthless for real work. Elwood Mfg. who made IH's FWA on the 86-series made a couple units for 4020'a, the cab if so equipped had to be raised, operator's platform raised 4-6 inches, and roller chains used to come UP out of the transmission, across to the side of the tractor, then down before the driveshaft went forward to the frt axle.
Oliver did make a mechanical FWA didn't they? Like for the 1850/1950/1855/1955's? I know they were one of the first companies to push it in advertising.
Oliver did make a mechanical FWA didn't they? Like for the 1850/1950/1855/1955's? I know they were one of the first companies to push it in advertising.
Dennis:
The core aereator that I will convert to sleeve hitch is a Agri-fab 38 or 42". With 200 lbs. of lime on it sinks it 3-3 1/2". I figure the sleeve/hydraulic lift should lift it okay as long as it's fabricated as to not hang to far.
The core aereator that I will convert to sleeve hitch is a Agri-fab 38 or 42". With 200 lbs. of lime on it sinks it 3-3 1/2". I figure the sleeve/hydraulic lift should lift it okay as long as it's fabricated as to not hang to far.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Front wheel bearings:
I got a pleasant surprise today. The narrow front wheels that came in yesterday had good bearings in them. I can't guess how old they are, but they're nearly good as new. They're a HEIM RF12-22-14AP and Motion Industries carries them for $8.10. These are old enough to have been Made in USA. Suppose they still are?
I got a pleasant surprise today. The narrow front wheels that came in yesterday had good bearings in them. I can't guess how old they are, but they're nearly good as new. They're a HEIM RF12-22-14AP and Motion Industries carries them for $8.10. These are old enough to have been Made in USA. Suppose they still are?
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