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Archive through May 25, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie,

I would guess that it would be Iron/Gard, What is the purpose of the reducer and the hardener? I guess I'm worried about gas or other stuff would ruin the finish or cause the paint to bubble or peal.

BTW, Nice nail! But I pefer red!
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Thanks!

Jim
 
This is my first post ,and I was hoping that someone would be able to help me out. I recently acquired an old model 70 and I am having trouble locating a serial number (or figuring out which number is the serial #). There is a tag on the left side of the transaxle which is mounted upside down with 4 screws in it. It has "8 27 H" stamped on it. On the right side of the transaxle the is a number cast right in to the housing "351 530 - H7", and the tag on the engine has a serial number "658138". The entire tractor has been repainted an ugly green color but I should note that under the original yellow on the transaxle, it was painted red, but only on the transaxle. Also, the grille on this tractor is full length with no cross member, which I thought was only on the model 70 and above. Thanks for any help you can give....

Eric
 
Dave B.

In many cases when I replace the cork gasket I will also find one of the seals leaking too. Now they don't leak large amounts of fluid but I hate to have any drippings on the floor. Before I replace the cork gasket I clean the hydro up good and check each seal, it takes time and sometimes you need to run them awhile and sometimes they leak overnight so you need to spend some time. These are 30 year old tractors so the seals going bad is understandable. More often than not I just tear them down and replace all seals when I replace the cork gasket and then I know I am done for probably my life time.
 
Eric K:

With referencing to your serial number inquiry, please refer to the FAQ section and look at item #10.
 
R.C.

I agree 100%. After replacing my gasket(on a used hydro I purchased) started the tractor ony to find leaks. Take hydro back out---yada-yada-yada. When your in the project that far just go ahead and replace all the seals etc.

Lesson to be learned !!
 
R.Munday

I welded a tail pipe section on my 1250 mostly to keep the paint cleaner, but it also keeps the fumes from blowing back at me.
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Thanks everybody for the photos and drawings of the mower decks. I have two 42" and one 48" deck and the information was especially helpful.
Bill
 
Rick M/Paul D -

Lemme see if I get this right (if not, Hydro Harry will surely wake up and set me straight!)...

It's simply an engineering change. If you look at the parts book, the serial number break should be listed.

IIRC, it had something to do with icing up of the snowthrowers (and probably other things) - the longer pipe directed heat on the chute, causing it to thaw/freeze and locking it in place. Thus the availability of a clamp-on deflector for the "thru the grille" mufflers. Later, they changed to a shorter pipe "behind the grille", which probably dissipated the heat quicker and perhaps even sucked the heat (and exhaust!) thru the cooling ducts.
 
Are aftermarket pre-cut neoprene/nitrile gaskets available from any of our sponsors, or is this a do-it-yourself project?

I've got another 149 that needs a Hy-Tran oil change and would like to try a better-than-cork gasket. Along the same lines, when I got my other 149 and 782 the first thing I did was replace the engine oil and Hy-Tran, but never separated the hydro from the transaxle, figuring if it ain't broke don't fix it. But since all have worn/grooved trunions it looks like a disassembly is required unless I want to live with the slow-up on hills as I mow the lawn.
 
That makes a lot of sense Bryan! I didn't really notice that in the FM but will check it out again.
 
I just saw this mount for sale over on WFM. Kind of made me go HMMM... That sure looks stronger than the sleeve hitch for the Cub.

Might have to play with having something like that made for me. Just thought I'd share it as food for thought...

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Roland B. Thank you. Should have checked FAQ's first I guess. I found the ser# 43811. Thanks Again.
Eric
 
Roy Najecki:
To my knowledge these neoprene hydro seals are a do-it-yourself project. For more info on this topic check out postings (especially Richard Christensen's) over the last couple days.

Richard Christensen:
Now you got me thinking about other leak points. This 1250 I am currently working on has an internal brake. How notorious is the retainer 'O'ring associated with this internal brake for leaking? Can this 'O' ring be replaced externally or must the tranny be disassembled? The manual states that the retainer should be pushed out. Is there a trick to doing this externally?
 
Eric K:

You are Welcome....Plugging your S/N into the chart, your cub was built in Sept of 1962.
 
good news, bad news, and some questions. good news...pretty soon ill be getting a BEAUTIFUL 128 for only $200 from a friend of the family! and i finally got an original
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. bad news...i had to drag it out of a field and really needs some help (i couldnt refuse the price, FREE!)the rear wheels, the end of the axles, the hood, and the seat are completley rusted through (tranny and frame look good though). and now the question...while i was working on it i noticed that the base coat on several parts is red!?!? ive checked the serial number and it checks out as a basic original model, whats up with the red? i didnt think they used that until later on.
 
Charlie >
The part number (C-249)for the spring shank in NLA for the modle CC-600 (sleeve hitch).
In fact I was told parts are still advailable for the CC-600
Also the same part # C-249 for the (3point hitch CC-1000) has been changed to C-352-10
Also told they only had 1 on hand and that they would probly not be stocking them anymore.
Which dont make sence , since they still sell the CC-1000 culitvator.
 
Rick M. -

Food for thought. Which would you rather have "give" due to stress? Your sleeve hitch adapter or your rear end casting?
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Jeffrey:

The red you see is a Red Oxide Primer that was used on the castings IH made. It is a product called Glyptal. Its primary use was to help seal the casting pours. From what I understand, it was only used on casting parts.
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