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Archive through May 24, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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T-Mo

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Jan 22, 2009
Messages
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Terry Reed
I have nothing but narrow frames here, not counting the two 2000 series I have. I wouldn't mind finding a wide frame, would love to own a 82 series. I wouldn't toss out a QL, but I'm not looking for any either. It seems like when you have the money, you can't find any decent ones. When you don't have the money, deals are popping up all over the place.
 
Paul - You take all the fun out of playin with these yankees !
 
DAVE - no more than $200 - Wow. I've never got anything for <u>less</u> than $700. But all have come with a good deck and a blade or other accessory. So maybe I'm not doing too bad.

Prices do seem to jump when looking for an 82 series. The 682 I bought this spring has a Kohler KT17 Series I engine. In hindsight maybe I should have passed on it because someday the engine is going to blow no matter what I do, and I will be mowing a sloping field with it. The 682 is really a CCC, but since it is an early production CCC most of the bolts are WP marked.

ERIC - you might find what you want through lawnmower/CC repair shops. Some have bulletin boards with private owner used equipment for sale. Also the shop might know of a local guy who stashes Cub Cadets, and might part with one. That's how I found my first 149 sixteen years ago.
 
Tristan: For what it's worth, this is what the straight pulleys look like for the tiller. I got lucky a few years ago and found the complete drive set-up on ebay.
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Roy: I just Googled Semper Ubi Sub Ubi.
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well guys I had a fairly bad cub day yesterday. Got most of the lawn cut then the belt broke. I looked up the size and I think i came up with 3/8x81, but it the next cloumn to the right( cubfaq.com) it says 1/2x 77 for the 42" mower. Its on a 125. I measuring the width the the belt i have/had and its 3/8" wide so i assume its the 3/8x81" belt i need. Can anyone conferm that please?

My parents said they saw a newer cub cadet with a tiller just down the road so o went to look at it and found a CC 1250. It was in pretty rough shape to say the least. the guy came out and offered to start it and let me drive it so i did. I started it it and i couldnt believe how much it shook.Idling or full throttle it was AlOT worse than my 14hp in the 124. Anyway, i started driving it and could tell the trunion was shot right away and when i went to put it back where it was, I pulled the hydro lever to neutral( it was adjusted realy tight or just rusty) but it let go I the front end popped up unintentionally. I got it to stop nevertheless. The guy wanted $625...no attachemnts besides the tiller. he said he payed <font size="+1">$800</font> for the tiller by itself at one point...so that was a waste of time even looking at it.
 
KENtuckyKEN,
Maybe so, but then they don't know if what I told 'em is true or not.......
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Roy, My original came from Tom H, the 1200 from Ted Ill, it was in pieces. It was my plow tractor till I bent the lift handle pulling the plow out of the ground. That engine went in the 149 (hyd. lift is nice) The other 2 QL were 50 and 75, they both needed either ignition switch or PTO to get running. The first 1250 I bought cause the kid wanted one. Honestly I probably don't have 700 in the truck I drive every day, if you don't count oil changes. No it ain't pretty but I drive to work every day and to Dubuque to see my son (2 hours away). You have to be willing to get dirty and make mistakes. I've made some really good mistakes.
 
I have a 70's model 1450 with a Workhorse front end loader which I am in love with. I've had it for about 15 years and have done lots of work with it, probably some I should have never asked it to do, but it keeps on going. Recently the ignition coil went south, so I replaced it with a used one. It only lasted about a week and now it went bad. During that week the ignition switch went bad and I couldn't find another one so I jury rigged an on-off switch with a seperate start switch. Everything was working great till the new (used) coil went bad again. Now I am afraid to replace the coil again for fear the same thing will happen . Has anyone ever had a similiar thing happen, and what was the solution?
 
Melvin, when you replaced the coil did you use an internal resister coil?
 
Hi Dave
Since this is my first time on this forum, not sure of how to reply so hope this gets back to you. Thanks for the reply, and to answer you question, I am not sure about the coil if it had an internal resister or not. How can you tell? I bought it from a guy who has a site on ebay. No numbers, but it was supposed to be from a salvaged Cub. All I could tell is it was a Delco. Now he is sending 2 more coils.
 
BATTERY WON'T CHARGE

Need a little help - battery on my IH 682 wont charge. I need to jump it every time. If I charge the battery overnight, it will start until it runs out of juice - then back to jumping. The meter on the dash shows that it is charging - so I am guessing the alternator is working properly. But somewhere between the gauge and the battery something is wrong. I'm not sure how to test or where to start looking. Any ideas? Thanks!
 
Melvin on my 1200 i have had similer problems ;replaced key switch and coil now recently i replaced another coil after a backfire and then it would not start. I did get it started after finding a grounded out wire from the points to the coil. so I wonder if a wire grounded out could take out the coil?
 
Hi Jeff Baker
I have wondered about the same thing, and I plan to just replace the wire. It checks OK with the ohm meter, but it could be an intermitent proble that only happens when the engine is running. Good idea, I'll change it. Thanks
 
Denny, who me?
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Nope just mentioned that I thought it was Wyatt that had plans to build a T/A...

Paul B.,
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Michael H., I didn't take that photo, just saved it off of this forum many many years ago. You would use the mule drive from the timed deck. That would be the typical rectangular style deck used on an Original.

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Josh

I don't think so. The previous owner told me that he thought it was ready for a new battery as it would not hold a charge. So I purchased a brand new battery - only to find that it won't hold a charge, either. Probably was nothing wrong with the first one!
 

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