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Archive through May 21, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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cmwkrill

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
213
displayname
Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
Hydro Harry- Yes, the ACR spring is the one i'm goin' after. I hadn't thought about the cam cover Don T mentioned, so I was afraid I was gonna have to pull the pto. It looks to be in relatively good shape, though, so, if I get it running and don't have to pull the pto, then I definitely won't.
 
hey guys, Got my clutch back apart and in the correct order/orientation. was looking at the lever and noticed it is pretty worn. Does anyone know the height of the bump if it is laying flat, measuring from inside the hole? I'm sure I can weld it and get a little longer out of it.
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I did it right this time
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Patrick-

You can determine that from the unworn areas adjacent to the wear you'd like to fix.
 
Opened the hood on my 122 to check the oil and their was glass everywhere, one of my headlights was cooked. I went to napa and got the napa brand replacement and it is brighter than the GE light, it has a clearer lens and shinyer reflector. We had a storm system that moved through last night that produced a really low barometric pressure maybe that got it.
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It is hard to tell the difference but the GE is on the right.
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Patrick,

Buy a new one, get your measurements, fix the old one and keep it for a spare!
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Lucas,

Those lights sure would look good with a decal around them!
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I bet those guys at the top of the page would agree with me.
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*edit* I think I keep reading to much into it. I read the page on adjusting the brakes. I understand the position of the pedal but every thing still seems backwards. Could every thing be worn out so much that the clutch is only engaging when the pedal is fully pressed and the brakes never engaged? This is all kinda odd, it was all working fine until one trip to the back yard and it all just went out.

I see, that makes sense I feel like an idiot.
I am still having problems. Starting to wounder if it was my brakes, But I still am not sure. I drew two lines on the manual that shows the pedal travel. Were in the "clutch zone" does the clutch start to be disengaged? the position of the pedal relative to the clutch being "engaged" keeps throwing me off. I keep wanting to think of it as a auto clutch. And the brake zone is where the brakes are engaged. I noticed that my brakes are not really being sprung back. I haven't tackled them yet but I wounder if they are stuck or a spring broke. I have wrenched on the nut to adjust the clutch lever and Its getting hard, and the clutch still inst being engaged until its almost fully pressed.

something to me still seems not right. seems to me that from the clutch engaged to being pressed I should feel a lot of tension from the main spring but I am not even touching the main spring till its fully pressed almost into the brake zone.
I hope I have made sense, sorry to keep coming back with basically the same problem


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Patrick,

Almost as soon as you press on the pedal, the release lever should be beginning to press against the throwout bearing. This would release the pressure of the clutch plates. About half way down, the brake should begin to engage.
Do you have external brakes?
 
I finally got a rebuilt PTO clutch for my 125. The three clip springs did not come with it; are they necessary
Tom
 
patric i had that same thing happen to me im betting you sheard a roll pin in your drive shaft i know what your thinking it wont move but it with a sheard pin
 
Patrick, your clutch lever is crap! Your using all the travel and not releasing the clutch because of a worn out lever.

Replace the lever with new and start again! You'll be amazed at the results and won't lose any more hair.

My point oh two, fwiw, yada yada yada...
 
Tom: Not really. However, I've got a couple machines here that seem to have a knock and I'm hoping it's coming from the PTO clutch that doesn't have the anti-rattle springs.
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Kraig: My alligator mouth overrode my chickadee butt - but, thanks to your advice I'm confident that I can now post an acceptable pic. JackieO has no front grille
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and Gracie sports a 127 grille. When the Correct Police come I hope they're prepared to haul some parts home with them to help pay my fine.
FWIW I did some checking today and it looks like I've bought one of those high back seats every other year since 2008 (now have 3). The 4 year old one is in every bit as good shape as the newest one. Point is: don't let the initial cost scare ya.
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I don't think I have a lost roll pin broken somewhere, I've had the drive shaft out and apart a few times already. But it still doesn't explain why the lever doesn't make contact with the bearing till almost fully pressed. Must me something I am not noticing/ knowing about.

I have external brakes. Pulled the right tire off (the one that sometimes sticks in the past) and found out one of the pads the whole pad is gone from the plate. And guess what. No springs. On either side, haven't looked at the pads on the other side yet. Not sure if that could be causing my problems but it surely doesn't help. I found ccspecialties had pads... 35 dollars for one pad/plate?? wow! but I guess the plate and pad wouldn't need to be replaced, he has glue on pads for just 40. has anyone used these?

*edit - looked on the parts list and It looks like I have Ausco style brakes, and they don't show a spring used. should there be a nut on each end of the brake arm? I have two nuts I am assuming one is used as a lock nut, but they have a good 1/2 inch space between the two and rusted on the treads.
 
is there a different bracket for a wideframe versus narrowframe snow/dirt plow thanks
 
JJ- I'm not sure I understand the question.. There are plenty of guys much more knowledgable than me on here. I DO know that my dad and I spent an entire day with a welder and an angle grinder to make a wide frame blade fit my narrow frame 126. Even fabbed up a little lift bracket for the lift arm out of some cold rolled flat bar stock and a u-bolt. He jokes that if he'd have known I was gonna end up with a wide frame about 2 or 3 years later, he would have just left it..
 
it seems that the wideframe takes a longer bracket in order to clear the frame if anybody knows let me know thanks [wideframe snow/dirt blade]
 
guess i should have said the bracket that lift rod hooks to on the plow thanks
 

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