Hi just got a 109 fixed head gasket and pto clutch. The problem is with the hydrostatic after running awhile hydro wants to load engine till it almost quits when you shut off the engine the tractor will not roll frontwards or backwards need some expert advice. If I rock the tractor the wheels will unlock and roll agin. I checked the checkvalves they are free. How ever the o-rings were flat is it possible they are bypassing when warm. I you can help please do Thanks Jim Im still trying to learn how to use this computer so bear with me.
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Archive through May 20, 2009
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RICHARD P. - Did the shop do the disassembly & assembly work for that price also? If they did that doesn't sound bad. Only thing I question is replacing the camshaft. There's only a couple things that go wrong with them, sometimes the pushrod for the points wears a groove in that lobe, and the valve lobes can wear, also the ACR spring can break and I'm not sure if it's replaceable as a single part. It's good they replaced the governor too. Sometimes the weights which are plastic swell in the hot engine oil and effect the governor action, and the finger on the shaft that runs the throttle sometimes breaks off which requires complete disassembly to replace.
I didn't expect the prices would be less than what I paid for My K321 parts years ago.
For "Reference" I bought a brand new complete CC-spec. K241 direct from the Kohler sales rep that called on IH LVL back in 1981. Drove up to rural Sheboygan to pick it up in Sept., '81. I supposedly got IH's cost, $300. Guy told Me when We set it in the trunk of My car that before We ever did ANY repair work to tear the engine down before buying parts like piston, rngs, etc. He said it was machined & assembled in their model/prototype shop, Could have had a K301 or K321 piston. I never ran the tractor Dad put that engine in but it ran faultlessly until Dad sold it in 2006. He replaced a tired K241 in a CC 104 with that engine in 1985, the engine it replaced is the K241 I ran for 20+ yrs in the 72 after I rebuilt it, and will go in the 70 after I rebuild it again.
I didn't expect the prices would be less than what I paid for My K321 parts years ago.
For "Reference" I bought a brand new complete CC-spec. K241 direct from the Kohler sales rep that called on IH LVL back in 1981. Drove up to rural Sheboygan to pick it up in Sept., '81. I supposedly got IH's cost, $300. Guy told Me when We set it in the trunk of My car that before We ever did ANY repair work to tear the engine down before buying parts like piston, rngs, etc. He said it was machined & assembled in their model/prototype shop, Could have had a K301 or K321 piston. I never ran the tractor Dad put that engine in but it ran faultlessly until Dad sold it in 2006. He replaced a tired K241 in a CC 104 with that engine in 1985, the engine it replaced is the K241 I ran for 20+ yrs in the 72 after I rebuilt it, and will go in the 70 after I rebuild it again.
Dennis Frisk,
I only took the engine apart to the crank shaft. The pto bearing locking collar nut broke flush with half a turn. All I did was pull the head, crank case breather, bearing plate, front pto, carb and piston and rod. I left in the cam, governor, valves and crank shaft. I think thats all.
The piston will be .030 over, which saved from having to sleeve the engine. The lobes were worn on the cam. I never saw that one coming. The cost of the governor is actually only a little more than the exhaust valve. That was a surprise too. Any way it's looking like hot dogs and macaroni for awhile
. Labor on this is 260.00. So all in all this 129 that only needed a battery and a coil wire has need a little more. BTW these are all Kohler parts, nothing else. The bottom line looks shocking but this engine and hopefully tractor will be running long after I take that big dirt nap. I keep telling myself, quality isn't expensive, it's priceless.
I only took the engine apart to the crank shaft. The pto bearing locking collar nut broke flush with half a turn. All I did was pull the head, crank case breather, bearing plate, front pto, carb and piston and rod. I left in the cam, governor, valves and crank shaft. I think thats all.
The piston will be .030 over, which saved from having to sleeve the engine. The lobes were worn on the cam. I never saw that one coming. The cost of the governor is actually only a little more than the exhaust valve. That was a surprise too. Any way it's looking like hot dogs and macaroni for awhile
RICHARD - The rebuild I put in that K241 back in '85 was a low-buck rebuild. The piston & cylinder were in decent shape so the shop manager suggested We knurl the piston instead of bore O/S & replace. Replaced exh. valve, OEM size rod, and file-fit new rings and the piston. Shop manager said to fit the knurled piston into the bore with a .002" feeler gauge and file the knurling till it fit. No crankshaft work was done, just ground the valves & seats, light hone on the bore, and a BIG cut taken on the head to remove the warpage.
With oil changes every 30-40 hours that engine lasted 1400 hours. Plowed at several PD's, mowed a LOT of grass, blew snow, and ANY other kind of torture I could dream up for 20+ yrs.
You should get similar results from Your rebuild. Divide the cost by the number of years and the total doesn't seem NEAR as bad.
With oil changes every 30-40 hours that engine lasted 1400 hours. Plowed at several PD's, mowed a LOT of grass, blew snow, and ANY other kind of torture I could dream up for 20+ yrs.
You should get similar results from Your rebuild. Divide the cost by the number of years and the total doesn't seem NEAR as bad.
Dennis Frisk,
I know you are right (that's why I'm doing this). I'm suppose to be getting new sidewalks (200ft). So maybe I'll get a thrower for the 129 and save the blade on a gear drive for my driveway and alley. And one of these days I'll show up at a plow day event. But as I'm looking at it, I'll want to bring a gear drive and this wide frame if for no other reason that to work this engine. Isn't that how it works, spend money and dream of spending more? - Peace -
I know you are right (that's why I'm doing this). I'm suppose to be getting new sidewalks (200ft). So maybe I'll get a thrower for the 129 and save the blade on a gear drive for my driveway and alley. And one of these days I'll show up at a plow day event. But as I'm looking at it, I'll want to bring a gear drive and this wide frame if for no other reason that to work this engine. Isn't that how it works, spend money and dream of spending more? - Peace -
Richard - I'm biased, except for the one PD down in Roanoak, IL that both SON & I went to and He ran the 982 almost all day I've always taken a GD to plow with. I built My sleeve hitch and "Borrowed" Dad's plow probably in about 1984 or '85, WAY before PD's became popular. I'd fall plow My Dad's and Sister-in-law's gardens every fall.
129 & snowblower would make short work of that new 200 ft sidewalk.
And yes, SPEND $$$$$, Stimulate this tired old Economy.... It's the American Way!
129 & snowblower would make short work of that new 200 ft sidewalk.
And yes, SPEND $$$$$, Stimulate this tired old Economy.... It's the American Way!
Kendell, good question.
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- Allen Schumacher
Kendell, your the IT Mgr, research it! I expect a report in the morning why we cant blame you this time! LOL
kide
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- Gerry Ide
I'm working up a cost estimate on that... keep in mind this should be a traffic revenue driven site. WE NEED MORE QUESTIONS!!!!! (Answers - who's got <u>them</u>???)
That rebuild estimate has me kickin' the tires on the (smoking) 149.. I keep thinking that a pump and plumbing transplant onto the 129 would be a good solution to MY biggest complaint to the PO - that he didn't get a juice lift on it when he bought it new...beside, it's cork gasket time on the 129 ( concrete in the new barn is covered with "accidents")
That rebuild estimate has me kickin' the tires on the (smoking) 149.. I keep thinking that a pump and plumbing transplant onto the 129 would be a good solution to MY biggest complaint to the PO - that he didn't get a juice lift on it when he bought it new...beside, it's cork gasket time on the 129 ( concrete in the new barn is covered with "accidents")
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- Allen Schumacher
Kendell, I thought this site was traffic driven...You drive to Charlies an buy something and he donates to server maint. Being the great guy he is he donates his time to monitor(poof)and maintain this site to rigorious high standards.
Ronald, best bet would be to place a want add in the classifieds here and keep your eyes open and look on various other online for sale websites as they do show up now and again. Or you could build one. These are basically your only options as they are no longer being built new.
I've driven to Charlies' place before... but not since he moved north. I do need to make a trip to see his new place in person, ummm, that is, if I ever get invited...
new clutch problem on a 128.
just replaced everything, shaft, springs, throw out bearing. pressure, driving and locating disks.
clutch dont work.
at first, the pressure and driving discs would not separate. thinking they were just stuck for some reason, i worked a putty knife in between them and pushed the pressure plate back, now it wont come forward.
i thought the roll pin had snagged the pressure plate somehow. i drove out the pin while it was still on the tractor, and the pressure plate still will not move.
it appears the pressure plate is jammed on the shaft. i will take the whole thing apart tomorrow.
i tried adjusting the clutch.
my questions are, the pressure plate is supposed to move forward and back, correct? it rides on the roll pin, correct?
is it normal for a new pressure plate to jam on the shaft? should i ream the pressure plate?
when i assembled it, i noticed the pressure plate was a little tight, i had to tap it onto the shaft, should it have a lot of play?
just replaced everything, shaft, springs, throw out bearing. pressure, driving and locating disks.
clutch dont work.
at first, the pressure and driving discs would not separate. thinking they were just stuck for some reason, i worked a putty knife in between them and pushed the pressure plate back, now it wont come forward.
i thought the roll pin had snagged the pressure plate somehow. i drove out the pin while it was still on the tractor, and the pressure plate still will not move.
it appears the pressure plate is jammed on the shaft. i will take the whole thing apart tomorrow.
i tried adjusting the clutch.
my questions are, the pressure plate is supposed to move forward and back, correct? it rides on the roll pin, correct?
is it normal for a new pressure plate to jam on the shaft? should i ream the pressure plate?
when i assembled it, i noticed the pressure plate was a little tight, i had to tap it onto the shaft, should it have a lot of play?
Frank,
The pressure plate should slide freely on the drive shaft. Make sure the shaft has no paint or scaly rust in this area. Also sometimes if the roll pin is not indexed so the "smooth" sides are out they can drag as well. A very small amount of grease or lithium assembly lube will help until things get fully broken in.
The pressure plate should slide freely on the drive shaft. Make sure the shaft has no paint or scaly rust in this area. Also sometimes if the roll pin is not indexed so the "smooth" sides are out they can drag as well. A very small amount of grease or lithium assembly lube will help until things get fully broken in.
Kraig,
I posted an invitation to EVERYONE quite a while ago. It ain't like I don't have the room.
I posted an invitation to EVERYONE quite a while ago. It ain't like I don't have the room.
