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Archive through May 12, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well-known member
Apr 16, 2012
Daniel Glinski
If Cub is ran with outside temps over 40 degrees one should use straight 30 wt oil.
Hi guys...I'm hoping for some advice on how to remove a rusty right angle exhaust elbow from a K161. Looks like I'll need replace it...it has a small hole in the top (not sure why... maybe from a screw??) and the threads are bad on the muffler end. We've tried using Liquid Wrench, WD-40, and brute force using a pipe wrench but have been unable to get a good grip without the wrench slipping off, and we're having trouble keeping the engine stable when applying pressure. Also concerned that applying too much pressure could damage the threads on the inside of the engine. Any thoughts?

You should use straight 30W oil until the temps are steady below freezing. Then 10W30.

The rearend will work using 90W gear oil but Hytran is probably the best oil because of added properties.

As far as grinding gears...check the teaser spring and the clutch adjustment.
Schultzie - mine have much more plumbing! I'm wondering if folks lengthen them out later on to get the muffler further out? I like the simple setup you have and as someone else here noted - they're having trouble getting their exhaust out of the block - I am too!! Thanks
Mike S
The transmission does not have syncronizers. If you are trying to shift gears while the tractor is moving like you would in a car or truck, that is why the gears are grinding. Don't do that, the tractor is designed to take off in what ever gear you need for the job at hand. Some people can shift on the go, but it takes some skill and experience and is really not necessary.
MIKE S. - To add to what Paul B. said, the GD CC transmission is the same transmission IH designed and started production of back in 1947 for the FARMALL CUB. Straight cut forged steel spur gears, forged splined top shaft for the sliding gears to engage the lower driven gears, and an even heavier forged splined lower pinion gear shaft on the bottom that drives the differential ring gear. ALL the gears & shafts are carburized, hard on the outside for long L-O-N-G wear life and soft on the inside for shock absorption. All made from 1040/1045 grade carbon steel. The inner ends of the axle shafts engage the splined bores of the side gears of the differental. ALL STEEL DRIVETRAIN!

No synchro's. You can take off in 1st, 2nd, or reverse, but I normally take off in 2nd and quick shift into 3rd gear once I'm rolling, but a 106 with a decent K241 should be able to take-off from a stop in 3rd gear.

The manual says to use either Hy-Tran ULTRA gear & hydraulic oil for the transmission, or 30W engine oil. 90W is probably too heavy of oil for a CC. The internal brake on the front of the lower shaft is a "wet disk brake" and may not work well with 90W gear oil, but your 106 should have dual rear external disk brakes so they operate dry anyhow. But there's a small needle bearing on the back end of the reduction housing input shaft that relies on oil splash for lubrication, and 90W doesn't "Splash" well in cold temps.

The GD oil capacity is 7 pints, or 3-1/2 quarts, so buy a gallon of whatever oil you choose to run.
Terry & Shultzie,

It should look more like this, or maybe not (after looking it up on the parts diagram) this may be an OEM elbow for a 70,100.


I'm sure one of the fine sponsors at the top of this page can get one to you!
As for removing the old one, spray PB blaster on it every day for about a week and then try to remove it. Good luck.
Danged if it ain't!

Parts lookup says:

Cub Cadet KH-230600 (elbow)
Cub Cadet IH-127874 (nipple:1"x1-1/2")
Guess they started making the elbow later.
Someone sneaked an elbow on my O!
Thanks for the info. I'll have to change the oil. I asked about the grinding gears because sometimes I'll come to a stop and when I switch gears they would grind. My brakes don't work so I'll have to fix those and see if it makes a difference. The clutch is definately disengaging because I coast to a stop.
Hydro oil/filter change on a 129

I have a service manual and that one does not show any maintenance. Where can I get a Operators Manual?
Does everyone change the hydro fluid on a regular basis or just the filter?
Marty - I'm still confused (as usual) - so the O doesn't have an elbow? So what exactly is it supposed to be? Gotta be at least one correct pipe out there somewhere.
Made a little more progress with the 126 this evening. First, I went out to my Dad's camp and took a good look-see at the 109's carb, S/G and V/R linkages/connections - and took some pictures of those for reference for the 126.

When I got back to the house, I finished the carb linkages and installed the condenser and coil. I've got the belt on the S/G and am ready to wire that. The gas tank is installed and gas line ran to the carb. I've got a fresh battery and a good charge on it. If I have time tomorrow after work, I'll try to finish what remains, roll the 126 outside, give it a crank and see what happens.

On another note, while visiting my 109, I mowed a little grass. This tractor has a 44A deck with speed-up pulley. I mowed a road on the property and part of it hadn't been mowed yet this season. The grass must have been 12 to 18 inches and the little 10 hp engine plowed right through it. Even though this engine suffers from what I think are some worn rings and I get some smoke out the breather, it seems like it has plenty of power. I can only imagine what kind of power this engine would have with a good rebuild. I've got another color tractor with a 20 hp Onan and it is a great motor/tractor combo, all the mowing I did today was with 1/2 (or less if you consider the wear on the engine) the hp and no problems. Somehow I'm thinking that if 10 hp is enough on a hydro, 12 hp on my gear drive 126 will be a sweet combo.
Quick question - looking at the manual for my 126, it looks like it recommends either a Champion H10 or J8 spark plug. Anyone know the difference and why one would use one vs the other?

From what I can gather, the H10 crosses to an Autolite 216 and a 4316 - both of which I've got on my bench.

Under Edit: My bad - J8 is NOT for the 126, but a model 73.
Bill J.
Use the Autolite 216 in everything, Champions are a hit and miss if they work out of the box these days.
Charlie - 10-4 on the 216. I've got another color tractor with a 14 hp Kohler Magnum in it and have used the Autolite 216 plugs in that engine for about 15 yrs with good luck. 216 in the IHCC's Kohlers keeps the spark plug inventory simple. Don't know where or why I bought this 4316 other than I've had it for several years.
Terry / Mike,
I'm pretty sure what I posted is correct, but I'm sure Kraig will be along any second and straighten it out for us.
Brian W. I have installed Kohler 23 & 25HP V-twins in a 682 & 782. The holes in the engine mount plate had to be redrilled and driveshaft length changed. I used small engine mufflers from Carquest on the 682 and made a pair for the 782. I used a relay for the ignition. It was plug and go, no change to the original harness. The only permanent change to the tractor was the new mount holes.
I was hoping to stay out of this...
But if I must be a

Shultzie, the muffler elbow setup that you posted is the correct one for an Original.
MIKE S. - Only time I ever have an issue with clashing gear teeth in a GD CC is when I shift into gear from a stand-still. I went as far as to weld up a "driveshaft/countershaft brake" which was something IH did on industrial versions of standard tread tractors W-A-Y back in 1941, and most semi-truck transmissions have them too. The I-4, I-6, & I-9 Internationals all had counter-shaft brakes.

But once I'm in gear, and moving, and I need to change direction, I always keep the clutch down and the transmssion in whatever gear I'm in till I come to a complete stop, then shift into the gear I want next, then ease the clutch out. As MANY people have found out, there's only so many years those forged carburized gears will withstand grinding before they won't stay engaged under load. MANY old Farmall H's have had the engaging teeth rounded off for 5th gear, road gear, which is 15-16 MPH which requires starting out in 4th, about 5 MPH and shifting on the fly, which most people just "Grind them till they fit". The engaging teeth are less than 1/4" long and after 30-40-50-60-70 years careless operators have worn them out enough they'll pop out of gear. My Super H is 59 yrs old and still holds 5th gear perfectly, has NEVER popped out of gear. But I've been the primary operator of that tractor since 1968 and have NEVER ground the gears in it. So do everything you can to avoid clashing gear teeth. It only takes a second or two longer for the gears to stop turning when you shift into gear to start moving. It's part of being a "Good Operator".

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