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Archive through May 10, 2017
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mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Calling all NF experts
Does this spacing seem correct to you guys?
Is the bottom edge of the hood supposed to be in line w/the bottom edge of the dash fiberglass?
I can adjust the latches down a bit yet, they did not latch hard but it seems as if the rollers are not fully seated/centered in the lower edge of the hood.
If I pull it down more, the edge of the hood will be bit lower than the edge of the dash.
I have a short piece of hose around the stops at the front edge of the cowl
Does this spacing seem correct to you guys?
Is the bottom edge of the hood supposed to be in line w/the bottom edge of the dash fiberglass?
I can adjust the latches down a bit yet, they did not latch hard but it seems as if the rollers are not fully seated/centered in the lower edge of the hood.
If I pull it down more, the edge of the hood will be bit lower than the edge of the dash.
I have a short piece of hose around the stops at the front edge of the cowl
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David, how thick is the hose you have on the supports? The hose should have about 1/8" thick side walls. Jim's photos were all I could come up with quickly and he did not have the rubber installed for the photos. Somewhere, I think they are on one of my other PCs I have photos of a 125 that was basically NOS that showed up a year or so back. Charlie should also have the photos too. Here's one I found that Charlie had posted of it last year.
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It is too thick I believe
I pulled that off and substituted a short chunk of car door weather strip on each one, front and rear, the kind that is hollow and a lot softer. It pulled down w/the latches so it looks to be like the pictures you posted.
I also added short pieces of black car door edge guards around the cowl sides. It don't show w/the hood shut. Don't tell anyone, OK!!
Plus Hydro Harry chimed in with about the same info.
I hate putting on decals! PITA for sure.
Thanks guys!
I pulled that off and substituted a short chunk of car door weather strip on each one, front and rear, the kind that is hollow and a lot softer. It pulled down w/the latches so it looks to be like the pictures you posted.
I also added short pieces of black car door edge guards around the cowl sides. It don't show w/the hood shut. Don't tell anyone, OK!!
Plus Hydro Harry chimed in with about the same info.
I hate putting on decals! PITA for sure.
Thanks guys!
mgwin
Well-known member
Since this seems to be "tractors in action day."
Finally fired up the 128 and plowed my wheat field/garden.
First run:
Little over half way:
It was still a little wet, but it was getting ready to rain for a couple of days.
Finished:
Finally fired up the 128 and plowed my wheat field/garden.
First run:
Little over half way:
It was still a little wet, but it was getting ready to rain for a couple of days.
Finished:
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jchamberlin
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Nice job Marty.
Rained in Pitt County tonight, nothing in Greene, Lenoir, Wayne, or Duplin counties though.
I must say I find the long straight stack a bit disconcerting, although I can understand why it might be desirable when working the tractor. I'm not a big fan of the Kohler fumes, even less the diesel smoke that some enjoy. Do you find the stack has to be that high in order to keep the air you breathe clear, or do you just like it that tall? Also, was there any "tuning" of the length for optimum exhaust cleansing and/or tonal quality? Just wondering.
I think you do an awesome job refurbishing your tractors and I can't wait to have the time to do some real restoration work to my fleet. Thanks for posting the photos, because, as you know . . .
I must say I find the long straight stack a bit disconcerting, although I can understand why it might be desirable when working the tractor. I'm not a big fan of the Kohler fumes, even less the diesel smoke that some enjoy. Do you find the stack has to be that high in order to keep the air you breathe clear, or do you just like it that tall? Also, was there any "tuning" of the length for optimum exhaust cleansing and/or tonal quality? Just wondering.
I think you do an awesome job refurbishing your tractors and I can't wait to have the time to do some real restoration work to my fleet. Thanks for posting the photos, because, as you know . . .
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Marty, nice plowing! Did you grow the wheat just as a cover crop?
Looking good, Marty!!
Best part of having a garden is getting to plow it in the fall and till it in the spring!!
Best part of having a garden is getting to plow it in the fall and till it in the spring!!
Nate, that's why I like to plow in the fall, and then till in the spring.
The soil works up jus perfect then.
BTW, my tiller now has a complete set of new tines, plus new bearings and chain!!
The soil works up jus perfect then.
BTW, my tiller now has a complete set of new tines, plus new bearings and chain!!
How do mower decks stand up and compare? I know the 44,A,C decks seem to be more popular than the 50 A, C decks. How to they compare to the fab decks of 38, 42, 48? You know the ones with the outer smaller blades and the large center blade.
nbextermueller
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- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
I personally prefer the 44c over the rest. The 44c has better bearings than the 44a. I can't ever seem to get a good even cut with a 50c. But I'll take a 50c any day over the 38, 42, and 48 decks.
They basically got better over time. I love my Haban 60 (OT Super Cubs only...) But am on the look out for a 54GT deck to replace the 50c on my IH782.
In fact I put together a "hybrid" mule drive for my 128 so that I could put my 44c on it and get rid of the 42 cast one that was on it.
The cut it better and time is money. I need the widest deck possible. when cutting nearly 2acres every week.
They basically got better over time. I love my Haban 60 (OT Super Cubs only...) But am on the look out for a 54GT deck to replace the 50c on my IH782.
In fact I put together a "hybrid" mule drive for my 128 so that I could put my 44c on it and get rid of the 42 cast one that was on it.
The cut it better and time is money. I need the widest deck possible. when cutting nearly 2acres every week.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jeremiah,
The stack looks much taller in the pics than it really is.
Sitting on the tractor, it is pretty much flush with the top of my head.
Kraig and Nate,
I planted the wheat for the deer after my garden played out.
I also planted it in order to put some nitrogen back into the soil.
The reason I plowed it now is so the deer would have something to eat during the winter.
As you can tell, the wheat was beginning to turn brown.
I had to wait until now, because it has been raining a lot lately.
It was now, or loose all the nitrogen potential.
It rained last night, and they are calling for a lot more the next few days.
If it ever dries out, I will disc it up and work it down to plant.
The stack looks much taller in the pics than it really is.
Sitting on the tractor, it is pretty much flush with the top of my head.
Kraig and Nate,
I planted the wheat for the deer after my garden played out.
I also planted it in order to put some nitrogen back into the soil.
The reason I plowed it now is so the deer would have something to eat during the winter.
As you can tell, the wheat was beginning to turn brown.
I had to wait until now, because it has been raining a lot lately.
It was now, or loose all the nitrogen potential.
It rained last night, and they are calling for a lot more the next few days.
If it ever dries out, I will disc it up and work it down to plant.
David S,
You got your tiller back together? Anymore picts you can post of the repair area once repairs were complete and then reassembly?
Rob F,
The 44/50" decks do well on yards that are mowed regularly. Leveling a 50" deck can be a little more challenging from side-to-side. Maintaining equal tire pressure in your rear tires is also important for keeping your deck level with the ground. The 44" decks were more popular since they aren't as wide and can maneuver through tighter spaces. If you have lots of wide open space acreage to cover and 14 HP or greater for the engine, go for the 50" deck. In tall grass/weeds you will have to make at least 2-3 passes to get a cut clean. Some guys like to on put Gator blades them since they handle tall grass better as they create more vacuum to pull tall grass up and cut it off cleaner on the first pass. The speed-up pulley helps some as well. One other advantage the 44/50" decks have is they are lighter and easier to handle/mount then the 48" deck.
I always thought the 38 and 42 inch decks handled taller grass/weeds better since the front leading edge is not as deep as the 44/50 inch decks so it doesn't push tall stuff down as far, plus the deck is wider fore/aft to accommodate the big center blade which gives the bigger blade more opportunity to whack tall stuff off on the first pass. The little blades spin 3-4 times as fast as the center blade to keep up and they do a pretty good job as well.
I don't have experience cutting grass with the 48" deck yet but it is constructed out of heavier gage steel sheet and is heavy compared to the comparable 44/50" deck. The 48 deck blades are all the same size and leading edge is taller on it then the 38/42" decks so I expect it will cut taller stuff similar to the 44/50" decks but I don't have any experience to back that up.
Keeping your blades sharp and your deck well maintained and leveled are key to a nice looking lawn. Also, you should never drop your deck all the way to the ground as you won't get a good cut. The deck should always be supported by the tractor lift rockshaft and deck hanger subframe to keep it level. If its riding on ground with the front roller and rear gauge wheels supporting the deck, it's not level and you will leave streaks in your yard.
I always pull my deck off after each use to scrape off any accumulated grass clipping crud on the bottom of the deck surface with a paint scraper. This prevents the crud from causing corrosion and eating up the deck. This will help ensure long life for your deck. Hope this helps.
You got your tiller back together? Anymore picts you can post of the repair area once repairs were complete and then reassembly?
Rob F,
The 44/50" decks do well on yards that are mowed regularly. Leveling a 50" deck can be a little more challenging from side-to-side. Maintaining equal tire pressure in your rear tires is also important for keeping your deck level with the ground. The 44" decks were more popular since they aren't as wide and can maneuver through tighter spaces. If you have lots of wide open space acreage to cover and 14 HP or greater for the engine, go for the 50" deck. In tall grass/weeds you will have to make at least 2-3 passes to get a cut clean. Some guys like to on put Gator blades them since they handle tall grass better as they create more vacuum to pull tall grass up and cut it off cleaner on the first pass. The speed-up pulley helps some as well. One other advantage the 44/50" decks have is they are lighter and easier to handle/mount then the 48" deck.
I always thought the 38 and 42 inch decks handled taller grass/weeds better since the front leading edge is not as deep as the 44/50 inch decks so it doesn't push tall stuff down as far, plus the deck is wider fore/aft to accommodate the big center blade which gives the bigger blade more opportunity to whack tall stuff off on the first pass. The little blades spin 3-4 times as fast as the center blade to keep up and they do a pretty good job as well.
I don't have experience cutting grass with the 48" deck yet but it is constructed out of heavier gage steel sheet and is heavy compared to the comparable 44/50" deck. The 48 deck blades are all the same size and leading edge is taller on it then the 38/42" decks so I expect it will cut taller stuff similar to the 44/50" decks but I don't have any experience to back that up.
Keeping your blades sharp and your deck well maintained and leveled are key to a nice looking lawn. Also, you should never drop your deck all the way to the ground as you won't get a good cut. The deck should always be supported by the tractor lift rockshaft and deck hanger subframe to keep it level. If its riding on ground with the front roller and rear gauge wheels supporting the deck, it's not level and you will leave streaks in your yard.
I always pull my deck off after each use to scrape off any accumulated grass clipping crud on the bottom of the deck surface with a paint scraper. This prevents the crud from causing corrosion and eating up the deck. This will help ensure long life for your deck. Hope this helps.
