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Archive through May 08, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Interesting to note on the roll pin punches that:
a: Sears's don't have any protrusion in the center, they call them roll pin punches, but I think they're just a regular pin punch..
b: SK's do have the center protrusion, but the text says that it's to keep the punch centered, when in truth it's to cause the coiled pin to contract slightly as it's being driven. (As Myron originally described).
c: The SnapOn also has a protruding center, but much greater length, hmmmm.
d: Grump could probably build better....
 
"d: Grump could probably build better...."

Think about how many (and easily!) a guy with a lathe could make those out of a piece of drill-rod! <font size="-2">(Hint, hint, hint...)</font>

Somebody needs to get crack-a-lackin' on this......PRONTO!
 
McMaster-Carr sells "roll pin punches" and they have a rounded tip. A 6 punch set is in the $31 range.
 
Harry M.

I doubt the sheet metal flap is still available from Cub Cadet, at least the one for wide frame models isn't available anymore as they want to sell you the new style dump valves that don't need the flap release. However, you can check with some of the fine sponsors listed at the top of the page and I bet they can fix you up with the parts you need.

PS: The picture Don T. posted is for a wide frame model. The narrow frame model is flat instead of humped.
 
I went to my local Fastenall and got their dowel pins. I picked up several in each size and length. Convenient and only cost me $10. Already got one installed on my snow thrower drive shaft. That sucker aint going anywhere soon!
 
Harry - I don't understand
dunno.gif

If those parts are missing then what's making the PTO turn red hot ?
I thought that the lever/button was pushing into the PTO causing it. If that's gone , then you mean the PTO is getting red without anything touching it ??
We/I need a pic !!

Kendell - I'm not allowed around any power tools , or didn't you read the letter I got from the pain clinic today ?

Art - Those aren't what I need to be making
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<font size="+1">THANK YOU </font>
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If anyone has not yet had the pleasure of dealing with Digger, AKA, Charlie from CCSpecialties, you don't know what you are missing and what a great guy he his.
 
<font size="+2">SAY WHAT ?</font>

Must be the boy's first online transaction (I need a Muttley laugh here !)

He makes his wife do all the work while he watches tv.
 
Ken - no the tractor runs forward/reverse fine so far. I havent even engaged pto yet cause I need new belts to deck & deck itself. I just couldnt put it into Neutral or coast w engine off cause that valve pressure release lever/flap is missing on mine. I looked at some pix of other hydros & see what it looks like & where it goes. I just wanted to be able to push it if have to move it back & forth in garage w/o starting it. I will try to find a set up from one of site sponsors.
while I'm here, I CL'd for plow/snow & dirt/other attachments wanted & got couple responses. are these prices decent?
1.sleeve hich assy. $100
2. bottom plow complete/needs paint $75
3. snow blade complete $75
4. cultivator missimg a shank $40

I actually dont plan to cut much with it,more dirt scraping,raking,snow moving & of course car engine mover.
 
Harry, prices for Cubs and parts is kind of a taboo subject around here. Basically, they are worth whatever somebody is willing to pay. Look around a bit more and see what stuff goes for in your area, as the price seems to vary from one location to another.
 
Chris - i know about the whats my tractor worth thing on here- didnt know about attachments. On my city/area Cl I dont see attachments for these early cubs, for JD's, WH's & craftsmen,etc I do. I hope to see them in person tomorrow or sat & check em out- since this is new to me I just need input on what might be good or if I'm getting hosed. prices seem ok if they are decent shape-cause not like I can make a snow plow myself for same money. least one that works.
 
Harry & Chris,
It's really not that they are Taboo, it's the fact that if you/we tell someone what something is worth and they find out it's worth half that or twice that, then it makes everyone wonder what their motives are in telling them a price.
Price depends on what,where,when and how much money they want to spend and or pay.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
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I am not sure how long they will last removing roll pins but I have a cheap set of transfer punches that I have used for that purpose a couple times. There are under sizes in the set so there should be one to fit every job. I have had them awhile but I think at the time I bought them it was under $10.00 for the set.
 
Rick A.

My 1450 does the same thing. I did the "neutral" adjust and it did nothing. Still bucks, jumps, and "neutral" is usually into "reverse". Welcome to my world of frustration with hydros. The more I use my 1450 the more I like my gear drive.
 
No. I actually went back in the vault to try to find that post but couldn't come up with it. Can you link?

In all honesty I know the hydros are nice. I have the 1450 and a 1650 that I would like to build a loader for. I plan to use hydros. HOWEVER, you have to admit that there is something nice about not having to adjust for "neutral", surging, etc. on my 126. Put it in gear and it just goes. I think IH should have built a CC "166" or maybe a "1600"- 16 hp w/ gear drive. That would be the ultimate GT.
 
Snagged another one today.

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83781.jpg


It runs great, but won't move. It's got a busted 3 pin drive plate
 
Jim T.-

I've been on my feet for 9 hours today machining a clutch driver adapter to put a Kohler Command 18 in my 582, and I'm too exhausted to try to look it up again.

In short...Either get a package of 5/8" ID x .010" thick shims or a 5/8" shim washer. Add shims (or grind the shim washer) and place under the snap ring that hold the trunion cam bracket onto the trans trunion shaft. This takes up the wobble in the cam plate and can correct problems there if all else fails.
 
Trying to adjust the voltage regulator on my 104. How many volts shold there be at the battery at wide open throttle? I'm using a digital volt meter at the battery. Currently it's at 13.2 volts. Drops to 12.6 with the lights on. Does that sound about right?
Thanks!
 
Big trouble in little China... I have too busy to put the mower deck on the 1250 until a few days ago. I flip the electric PTO switch and the blades turn normally. I start mowing and about 20ft. I get a belt squeeking sound and the blades slow down or stop turning. Moments later, the squeeking stops and the blades start turning. What could be wrong. Here's my theories, the PTO looses electric because a bad supply or ground or the PTO is going bad and startes dragging causing the belt to squeek. So, what a poor Cub owner to do?
 
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