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Archive through May 08, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kweaver

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KENtuckyKEN
Mick - There should be 6 screws (2 per hole) but someone may have had it off before you. Some screws may get cracked so the Allen wrench doesn't work and then it's time to just rip the sucker off.

Some guys wrap a chain around the belt groove and hank it real hard , others like Matt have fashioned a slide hammer puller of sorts to do it. Matt posted the drawing that he and his dad made up just a month or so ago. Search the archive if you want to see it.
 
M Chessor,
There are three more pointed set screws in the PTO, under the flat-ended ones you removed.
Okay, so Uncle Grumpy beat me by a minute. He lives closer to the sun than I do.
 
Hi all you to Ken. the post of the 129 repair was a joke. I wanted to pull the front cross member back together and tighten up the steering on my 129 so we installed the bolt and welded a plate on for the pin. now i will drill out and pin each side of the pin and remove the extra material that will be in contact with the 12 hp when its installed after paint.i hope that the two pins will help the cross member from spreading in the future . Have a great Day. later Don T
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Mick-

If you can't find my post in the archives, click on the link in my signature line, click the "Tools" button, and scroll down to see the picture. You can also click on "Downloads" and download a PDF drawing of the puller.
 
woohoo, just sold my snapper today. learned a lesson a 2x4 isn't strong enough to hold a tractor. all we had to load from the bank to his truck were 2x4's. pretty shaky but we got it up there. that being said i think i'm going to look around for another cubby to fill the gap in my garage.

i do have a question here though. i went to my local dealer here in town. he handles simplicity, cub, stihl etc. and inquired about the tool someone referrer ed to for the snap rings or dowel pins. its a tap that has a solid center and outer, but a gap so the pins aren't spread out as their tapped in with a hammer. i explained this to the guy at the desk and he looked at me like i had 4 heads. said it would be a neat little tap, but it was probably produced by someone with access to machinary to make one. said he's been in the business for many many years and never seen what i'm talking about. said it would be useful but then told me "if i bought every tool for my shop that made their lives easier i would be broke and out of business".

anyone know of this tool, where to find it, does it exist?

theo

to clarify its going to be used for the snap pin that goes in the shaft connectors on my 127 only. i'm sure i'll find other uses but primarily for the 127.

2nd question now that i think about it. I took old matting (rubber truck lining)and cut 2 rectangles out and put them in the storage box of my 127. how much heat is produced by the hydrostatic pump under the seat/storage area? it shouldn't melt the mat that keeps the spare tools etc from rattling around the box? I also took a small rectangle and double it up because the rubber rests that the seat lays on when sitting were shot. i just ran that across the back and put 2 machine screws.

is this babble or does any of it make sense?

theo
 
Theodore,

Are you talking about a punch? I think what you want is called a roll pin punch.
 
I asked my dealer about the roll pin punch and he'd never used one before either. His family has owned the dealership since the early 70's and he's been working on Cubs since he was a kid. He said they always just used a regular punch.

My Sears was out of stock of the 6pc extra long punch set so I had to order it. I got them yesterday and they left out the 3/16" punch and sent an extra 7/32" punch. What a pain in the arse. It also came in clam shell packaging and didn't include the vinyl case it was supposed to.

I wish it would stop raining for a while...
 
i ordered a 6 pc set from sears. should be here on the 13th. $20 for the set $25.10 for the complete order with shipping.

theo
 
hey fellas --- quick question-

parts breakdown shows shear pin for #1 tiller to be p/n 362-840-R1

anybody have any specs on size of said pin is so i can get a replacement? doesnt seem to be a valid p/n any longer ?


thanks!
 
On the plus side, that gold plated punch is for an air hammer/chisel and if you can get at the roll pin with an air hammer, life's a lot easier.
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unloaded the new2me 107 from van. need to adjust brake linkage cause didnt close pads tight enuff to hold on the rollback while tilted. started right up & went forward & back nice. Now come the ???'s:
1. is there a way with engine off to put a hydro into a neutral position so I can push it or does it have to move under power only?
2. is there a gas tank cap that fits my orig. tank w/gauge/float gizmo like on newer tanks?
3. can any WPA/EOH/WV cubbers suggest a dealer in tri-state area for parts?
4. which is most useful-sleeve hitch setup or a cat 0 setup, in terms of finding implements that hook to either?
TIA for any answers to these. was fun to drive just around lot real quik,cant wait to start "using" it.
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Art, I will most likely get an actual roll pin punch someday, but I also needed a set of standard punches too.

I thought I read that the 1/4" spirol pin holes where actually drilled slightly undersized and the 1/4" spirol pins are slightly over sized. So to punch a 1/4" spirol pin out would you actually need the 7/32" pin punch? Or are 1/4" pin punches slightly undersized already?

Keith
 
Harry - There's a good CC Dealer right there in PA. that I used for my MTD Cub parts. (partsmorris (at) wpia.net)

On moving your 107 without the engine there should be a lever on the right side above your heel that'll release the unloader valves. Most times the sheet metal flap is broke off though. What it does is push down the buttons on the unloader valve so that it can be rolled not towed.

I made a little shaft to use in my cordless drill to put in place of the driveshaft and use it to power the pump.
 
Ken- nope that is missing on mine-looks like my first parts search, theres nothing there,no rod,metal flap, nooothing so probaly need whole gizmo. I'll get me a manual to start, least it runs doesnt even smoke(course I've only owned it 2 days)
only bitch about this is now I got to clean out middle garage so I have room to store it. I even dried it off after unloading out of van.
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but its gonna tow its first escort engine in about 2 hours. weeee
 
Here is what you need. this is a new installed today on my 129 loader.later Don T
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