Archive through May 03, 2007

[tgallagher]

Brain,

Those PTO clutches can be a lot of fun getting them off. I think it took me longer to get that off than rebuilding the engine.

That bearing on the end of the crankshaft was frozen on mine so bad I had to heat it 6 times to get it off.

 

[dtanner]

that info made my night,new steering and new carb kit,need that fiberwasher repair for the shaft yet
But with your info you made 1 HAPPY CUBBER.
later and again thanks Don tanner

 

[gtatchell]

Kentuck - Wi-i-i-i-de wheels!! Not just yet with our freight prices. Have just uncovered an 'International Harvester Club' here in Oz, see wot I find there. (www.ihcaustralia.com).

 

[kweaver]

Graeme - Not much of a website there. They need a bug in their ear about this place. Maybe you can get in with them and give them some of your knowledge , you've been around here long enough to know the how to's and what ifs.
We need to get some sister sites around the world hooked up and see what's out there and how people are coping with the availabilty (or lack of) parts.

 

[hcole]

Brian,did you get 2 set screws out of EACH hole around the P.T.O. pulley?

 

[gtatchell]

Kentuck, I sent them an email last night, no response so far. I think they might also be the same people I was told about by a friend of a friend of a friend last weekend. So we'll see how we go.
Re Parts, when I saw all you guys talking of parts off your local dealers, I emailed MTD Australia about 2 weeks ago with a short parts list for my clutch. They came back with affirmatives on most bits & referred me to my local Cub Cadet dealer. I went over there, gave him the list, he got on the phone & affirmed, & rang yesterday to give me a progress report. So, for small parts at least, that looks pretty good.

 

[lbuttke]

Brian,
After you get all 6 screws out, recheck each hole to see if there is perchance another set of screws in them holes.
I removed 3 screws per hole on a PTO that was on a 10hp in my old 102.
Aint sure why there where 3 screws in each hole but there was.

 

[ccote]

Got my PTO parts for my 106 yesterday. The wear button is kind of a graphite material, not the fiber material that I've seen in pics. What holds the button into the lever? I didn't have time yesterday to do much, but I checked the fit on the button. It seems like a really snug fit. I'm afraid if I force it, the button will crumble like pencil lead. Any hints on how to get it in there? And what keeps it from falling back out? Thanks!

 

[mdomenic]

C Cote,

You are right, do not force it or it will break. The hole may need to be opened up enough so it will slide in and bottom out. Don't worry about it falling out because after you adjust the linkage (I set mine around 1/16th") clearance from the thrust button it will stay in position.
Be careful not to open the hole up to much.

 

[mbounds]

C Cote: I don't think I would ream out that hole. Its designed to be a friction fit and would likely cause the wear button to spin and thus wear out the stem super quick if inserted loosely in a too-big hole.

By the way, that button is "carbon fiber" which is similar to graphite pencil lead.... I place a thin piece of wood atop the wear button and with some slip-joint pliers, gently force the button stem straight into the hole. The wood piece prevents the pliers teeth from digging in to the button <u>and</u> allows me to cause to pliers to force the button stem straight into the hole and therefore no breakage...It's not hard, just don't get in a hurry...slow & easy & you're done.

Myron B

 

[nfoster]

I hope someone has an answer for this , I have a cub model#147. I recently replaced the spring on the mule drive that keeps the belt tensioned. My current belt # IH-490489-R2 is now too short to fit. I cannot get the rear pins to engage in the carriage...I probably lack an inch or so. Even if i got it to engage it would be too tight. So here is my question for someone who can figure belt length...can I get a belt that is 1 to 2 inches longer that I can succesfully use in this application?. The online cub site calls for this belt # as the mule drive belt so I'm not sure where I've gone wrong. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!!

Neal

 

[ccote]

Myron and Matt,

Thanks for the tips. This forum is great! I'll be putting it all together after work this evening, and I'll try and get pics to post here.

 

[tdangelo]

I have a Cub Cadet Modtl 1650 mfg in April/May 1977. I want to rebuild it entirely. Is powder coating acceptabel if the colors are correct? Can I repower it without causing too much angst with the "purest tractor owners"? Where can I find the "line sheet" specifications for this tractor?

 

[rleo]

Kraig,
Do you have a schematic with the dimensions to a hitch adapter that would fit on a tiller mount. Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't these bigger than the standard adapter?
--R

 

[rleo]

Thomas,
When it comes to paint, it's the wild west. Guys use all kinds and types. I suppose the tint of the color would be more important than the kind of paint if you're looking to please the purists. Bottom line: be hedonistic and please yourself first! It's your tractor. I'm content to use rattle cans b/c it's fast (but I do marvel at some of the better paint jobs that are posted). I can send you some of my paint archives if you wish.

 

[kweaver]

I'd go with powder coat if it's done right and the color is matched. The drawback is if / when it gets chipped it's harder to touch up.

 

[mbounds]

Thomas D': QL specs

Myron B

 

[mbounds]

Ray L: "hitch adaptor" ?

Myron B

 

[rleo]

Myron,
Yep, hitch adapter. I'd like to make one to fit my tiller mount and was seeking dimensions.

 

[lhoover]

What do you think is a fair price for a 1961 Original Cub Cadet? It runs and just needs some paint.