BILL J. - I'm going with the hunch that you somehow meter the Bon Ami or Comet into the engine by way of the carb while it's running.
In effect what you'd be doing is "Dusting" the engine. Which on diesel engines normally causes low compression, hard starting, oil burning, and other problems. I'd expect the same results on a Kohler.
It's 100% certain that some of the abrasive will end up in the crankcase and in the oil which also lubes your rod bearing. Since the rod bearing has more force on it than the rings & piston impose on the cyl. walls and is also made from softer metal, the rod bore will wear more than the cylinder & rings. Sounds like a good way to throw a rod to me.
If the intent is to manually "scrub" the cyl walls by hand, then engine disassembly is required, in which case you may as well do the job right with a hone.
Smokey Yunick always said the only difference between a professionally built blue-printed Big Block engine and a worn-out engine was a few GRAMS of metal. When you try to wear away more of the metal on purpose, you have to replace something to take up the space that metal occupied.
Another thought, my Best buddy all through HS & College had a '70 240-6 powered Mustang.... One night while out driving around the country the "TEMP" light came on, and shortly afterwards the engine started knocking and stopped... or more correctly seized. The engine had been rebuilt about a year before, new rings & a valve grind, but had always used oil after that. Luckily a friend of ours went by and gave us a ride to my car and I took my buddy home.
Next morning my buddy comes over and picks me up in his Dad's pickup along with ten gal of water, some Stop-Leak, couple quarts of oil. Car started right up and as we expected the water ran out of the hole in the radiator as fast as we could pour it in. Took a few minutes for the Stop-Leak to slow the leak and then we took off for his place 20 miles away. The engine actually sounded different. Week later my Buddy told me the oil burning had almost totally stopped. Now I'm not recommending you over-heat your Kohler to the point of seizure, but there are other ways of removing cyl wall glaze.
In effect what you'd be doing is "Dusting" the engine. Which on diesel engines normally causes low compression, hard starting, oil burning, and other problems. I'd expect the same results on a Kohler.
It's 100% certain that some of the abrasive will end up in the crankcase and in the oil which also lubes your rod bearing. Since the rod bearing has more force on it than the rings & piston impose on the cyl. walls and is also made from softer metal, the rod bore will wear more than the cylinder & rings. Sounds like a good way to throw a rod to me.
If the intent is to manually "scrub" the cyl walls by hand, then engine disassembly is required, in which case you may as well do the job right with a hone.
Smokey Yunick always said the only difference between a professionally built blue-printed Big Block engine and a worn-out engine was a few GRAMS of metal. When you try to wear away more of the metal on purpose, you have to replace something to take up the space that metal occupied.
Another thought, my Best buddy all through HS & College had a '70 240-6 powered Mustang.... One night while out driving around the country the "TEMP" light came on, and shortly afterwards the engine started knocking and stopped... or more correctly seized. The engine had been rebuilt about a year before, new rings & a valve grind, but had always used oil after that. Luckily a friend of ours went by and gave us a ride to my car and I took my buddy home.
Next morning my buddy comes over and picks me up in his Dad's pickup along with ten gal of water, some Stop-Leak, couple quarts of oil. Car started right up and as we expected the water ran out of the hole in the radiator as fast as we could pour it in. Took a few minutes for the Stop-Leak to slow the leak and then we took off for his place 20 miles away. The engine actually sounded different. Week later my Buddy told me the oil burning had almost totally stopped. Now I'm not recommending you over-heat your Kohler to the point of seizure, but there are other ways of removing cyl wall glaze.
