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Archive through May 01, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ed Cardinal
A 149 is worth much $$ .they are great tractors and they do have hyd lift. I like my 149 and have a 125 that I will use for a grass cutting tractor. I don`t need hyd lift for that. The hyd lift will lift a plow but will not angle it.you will need to read the FAQ on how to set up a plow. my .02
 
Kendal
Set everything up for spraying then go out into the street and check the pattern and coverage using plain water. Should be able to find a gear and throttle setting that gives good coverage. (Dang gear jammer)
 
KENDAL - I've used what Charlie recommends a couple times. It works great, but like he says, you have to be careful around bushes. I've used Ortho Weed-B-Gone, Spectracide Weed-Stop, and a couple varities of 2-4-D, and I really don't see much difference in the way they work, just depends on what you can buy cheapest. Years ago I think they all worked faster, Dandelions would wilt & die in a couple hours but the roots didn't die, and they came back. Now days it takes a week for them to wilt but in a month they're gone.

The posted speeds in the manual are at 3600 RPM, full load max governed RPM.

It takes a bit of math to figure out how strong to mix the spray and how fast to drive.
I made my own spray boom from ag field sprayer parts. I think you could build one for any 12V sprayer for $20-$30 today. I use four nozzles with the smallest Tee-Jet spray tips rated @ .17 gal/min @ 50 PSI spaced 20 inches apart on an 80 inch boom. So I spray .68 gal/minute, and the recommended rate is a gallon per 1000 square feet. My boom covers 6-2/3 feet, which means I have to drive just over 109 feet per minute when spraying, which works out to about 1900 RPM in first gear on all GD CC's. I vary the speed a little with the throttle, speed up when there's few weeds, slow down when there's lots of weeds.

I have a photo tach that I check the engine RPM when I start spraying, but once I get out in the yard everything is by ear. I haven't got my tachs for all my Cubbies from Dave Kirk yet... But I'll get them someday.

I have the finest mesh stainless screens, think they're 100-mesh, in my nozzles, those small nozzles plug real easy, and before I start spraying I put half a tank of plain water in the tank and spray it on the concrete driveway and make sure the nozzles are all clean, the water evaporates off the concrete all about the same time. I also put a pressure gauge in the pressure line going from the pump to the spray boom, It runs a consistent 45-50 PSI until the tank gets empty. When it drops below 45 I stop and refill. My tank is rated 14 gallon, but normally I add a quart of weed spray to 12-13 gallons of water.

The sprays Charlie & I mention won't hurt your lawn if you follow the directions fairly close. And they kill the thistles, Dandelions, etc. One thing they won't kill is crab grass and clover. Clover will wilt & turn brown, then come back. Crabgrass won't even wilt. You need a herbicide called Dimension for that, it's a pre-emergence herbicide, which means we're a month or more LATE putting it on this year with all the warm weather we had in March.

My sprayer was an ATV spot sprayer, but the pump is big enough to run the four nozzles. Most of the ATV broadcast sprayers only have two larger nozzles, so they don't plug as often. But I wanted something more accurate. My Buddy sprays with his 25 gal ATV sprayer ON his ATV, I know he runs pretty fast with it. I kinda like the idea of going slow and careful. Plus He's pretty brave with his "Tank Mixes", he'll put a weed killer, and an insecticide or two in the tank at the same time. I normally spray one chemical at a time.
 
Kendal, you're smart to ask the question BEFORE you spray, and not to cast dispersions on anyone, but Dennis is correct, you have to work out the math so that both the mix and the application work out for the recommended COVERAGE.

I tried the "spray with water on the driveway" approach, and I mixed conservatively (versus the recommendation I had received) and went with what looked good to me. But when I was all through I had consumed twice as much chemical as recommended for a yard my size. Problem was I had put it on WAY too heavy.

I concluded that what I judged good coverage on asphalt was in fact a severe over application. (Most of my grass is still dead, the weeds are coming back, but the dandelions are gone [except one].) The silly little sprayer is more powerful than all my equipment, even the mower.

I also notice that with my 2-nozzle sprayer, the weeds at the ends of the spray pattern are especially quick to come back. There is method to Denny's madness, by using more heads, and getting closer to the ground, he is able to achieve more even coverage.

I mean to try spraying plain water over my whole yard until I'm sure that I have my speed right. I also picked up some dye to put in the tank so that I know where I have sprayed so I don't miss spots. (My yard looked like it had a bad hair cut a month after I sprayed.)

I'm committed to a three year plan. This was the first year, learned a lot, probably won't get it all right next year either, but it sounds like Denny has invested the time to get his equipment and his application rate down to the science required to be successful.

Good work, Denny, and thanks for sharing.
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Edit: The crab grass seems to be really taking off, though.
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Yep, all's well! I just couldn't help myself! Must be feelin' silly today....

Glad you kept your sense of humor too!

Now I wonder how mush hate mail is in the email addy? ROFL!
 
New here to site. Have a 125 in good shape except for play in the steering column. Thinking about trying to fix it but wondering how difficult it may be. My father in law bought it new. My wife's brother ran into a tree with it years ago and messed up the steering some. Thanks for any advise.
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Ray Leo

Who knows, maybe those desks started life at 180 N. Michigan or the 401 N. Michigan Ave. offices?
 
Hey, guys.. Guess what? I got the cub to ny "base of operations" today.. First time pulling a trailer, and (supposedly) I handled it like a pro. (go figure) I have pics, I'm just not sure how to get them into the 100 kb limit.
 
Finally got the pics to work. I started my own thread on the restorations and refurbs page (posted the pics there), so anyone who wants to follow my progress through the 109 is more than welcome.
 
Samuel (Shartis) - First off, Welcome to the forum.
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For instructions on repairing the loose steering, check out the FAQs at the top of the page (#16). I recommend you spend a little time reading through all the FAQs - there's a ton of information there that will make your Cub time more fun and productive!

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringBox.htm

Any parts you may need are readily available from out sponsors.
 
JEREMIAH - Thanks for the kind words. You're exactly right, if you have a weed problem it takes a couple years to fix it completely.

I had one spot in my front lawn that had a LOT of crabgrass. I spent some time on the Internet and found out about Dimension herbicide for crabgrass. Turned out there was a local distributor for it. It only came as a "wetable powder" in 1 pound water soluable packets. I actually had to "BUILD" a whole new sprayer to spray the stuff!

I started with a 55 gal plastic spray tank and a Hypro 4100 series roller spray pump. I modified my front weight bracket for my #72 to mount the pump and run it with the frt PTO. I "guessed" at the pulley ratio, rebuilt my spray boom to take larger flood type nozzles, and started spraying water on the driveway. I need to slow the pump down a little so I can run faster in 1st gear but the new sprayer combo actually works pretty good. The wetable powder needs more "recirculation" from the pump back into the tank to keep the powder in suspension. My pump makes 7 GPM and I'm recirculating about 3-4 GPM back into the tank. If I had to do it over again I'd use an even larger pump. But bottom line, I got the Dimension on about the right time and after spraying only once 3 yrs ago I almost cured my crabgrass problem. Timing is everything when using pre-emergence herbicides.

Neighbor sprays his farm fields with a 500-600 gal sprayer with a stainless steel tank, has foam markers on the ends of the 60 ft spray booms, but I think he drives by his GPS when spraying. If the GPS signal dome wasn't so big and ugly in relation to a CC I'd get one to use when I spray. I kid the wife I have "sprayer envy", he uses a newer Case/IH Magnum to pull it. Guess I got lucky, the whole neighborhood is full of green farm equipment, but they guy who farms the rest of my back yard is ALL RED. In the 20 yrs I've lived here I've seen everything from an M, 300, 706, 1486, 3588, now Magnums, and I think his combine is a 1660 Axial-Flow.
 
Hey, just a sudden random question- anyone know why IH never seemed to settle on a color for the decal stripe? (on my 126 its blue, on the 109 its green, I've seen some that are red, ect..)
 
CHARLES - On most models IH did only use one color on the hood decal stripes. But during that time they used the color of the stripe to denote the engine HP, but the model number printed onto the same decal also denoted the HP of the engine.
 
I figured that was the meaning of the 10- or 12- prefix, (109 would henceforth be the ninth model of the 10 hp line) but i hadn't thought about them using the color as well.. Thanks!
 
Charles,
In the 1X8/1X9 series, the 8 stands for gear drive, the 9 stands for hydro, not the ninth one in the 10 horse series. The 109 is 10 horse hydro, 108 10 horse gear drive, 129 12 horse hydro, 128 12 horse gear drive, etc.
 

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