It's been a life long dream and I mean that very literally as I played on it as a toddler in nearly the same condition as the bottom picture. I've still got the original block and am thinking of welding it and rebuilding it so the H can be numbers matching unit. Pretty sure that the block can be made whole again with some of the new welding rods that are out there so just might give it a go. The best part is seeing my daughter on it and knowing that she is the fourth generation on the same tractor. IH Forever!
Are the gear drive clutch springs all the same OEM?
My 1200 has a red spring and I suspect it is a heavier aftermarket piece as the throw out bearing and clutch has made this unit a bear to drive. I loaned it to my son for a month and he let the neighbor kids use it to pull a cart around with and now the TOB is toast,.....again.
When you replace the throw out bearing make sure to leave enough clearance between the bearing and the lever. I cant tell you what the gap should be but even though it may not be touching it could still be too close which would wipe out your bearing. Our 122 had that problem after I rebuilt the clutch the first time. After fixing my mistake and 10 years later it is just now getting to the point that it needs to be freshened up again. Good luck!
Am hoping for some troubleshooting advice. I was using my cub 123 with snow thrower in creeper gear and all of a sudden it just stopped going forward. it was in gear, engine running and no power to rear wheels. this is a gear drive. I was able to limp back into the garage as it seemed to somewhat engage when I had the clutch pedal in a certain position (slightly depressedO but it would go in/out of working. I thought it was the clutch so I replaced the friction plate and also throwout bearing, put it all back together and same problem. Gear shifter seems to work ok as I can feel it working the gears, same with the creeper shifter. could it be shear pin on driveline to creeper? if so, what is best procedure to get it replaced? or is it something else I should check? any advise will be appreciated. thanks!}
While tring to mount the darn fenders on the O the CORRECT way, I discovered the "C" type clamps that had been used to improperly mount them in a really weird angle, were for the later 100's and such with the 6 sided axle housings.
So, I fired up the Chinese bender the boys got me for Christmas a few years ago and cranked out these.
pretty simple once one figures the damn thing out! Heck, it only took me 3 hrs!!! sigh!!
Im thinkin you sheared the bolt in the rear coupler,
You where able the limp it back to garage by pushing the clutch and that bound up the drive line enough to make it move
The bolt sheared. It’s all still stuck in there
What Mick mentioned could be the problem.
However, it should be a coiled spring pin instead of a bolt that connects the driveshaft coupler to the driveshaft and creeper input shaft.
I hope the end of the creeper input shaft did not "wallow out" and break off.
Peter C - Hey I wanted to add my welcome to the Forum. Your best source for IH Cub Cadet info and repairs.
Now for your problem - Mick and Marty mentioned some good info, but since you already replaced the clutch I think you likely would have seen the broken double roll spring pin (spirol pin). You would have to remove 1 from the rear coupler to get the clutch out.
I'm more suspect of a broken spirol pin "inside" the Creeper itself. You're likely able to get it to bind up a little by feathering the clutch.
If this is actually the problem you have to remove the Creeper and disassemble it to repair it (and it's a sorta pain but do-able generally without recking everything else).
Let us know what you find out and the other guys on here will help you out.
I'm kinda hit and miss anymore. I'm right in the middle of an official and final retirement and possibly moving (which I didn't mention on here before).
I need some info concerning Old Tecumseh engines. My brother has our grandpas sears suburban that I remember when he bought it brand new in 1969. It's the 12 hp with solid state ignition. Is there a newer type of electronic ignition that can be retrofitted or what's the best way to attack this troublesome ignition that's worn out?