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Archive through March 31, 2014
- Thread starter lpalma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Yes, Kraig, we really got hammered.
Keith O.,
Thank you. I have never seen (or noticed) that sliding piece, and the bolts, before. Looks like a darn good idea. Now, I need to start looking for the rocklshaft, and I;ll need to pick up a sleeve hitch. I already have the dethatcher.
Keith O.,
Thank you. I have never seen (or noticed) that sliding piece, and the bolts, before. Looks like a darn good idea. Now, I need to start looking for the rocklshaft, and I;ll need to pick up a sleeve hitch. I already have the dethatcher.
JOHN Lazar - What Steve B actually said was the main rotor drive on IH's Axial flow combines are via a BIG Honkin' V-belt, able to bring a 300+ HP diesel to it's knees. No v-belts on the old corn binders, maybe leather belts, but mostly spur gears and cast iron link chains.
I forget who all worked on them, but flexible steel belt continuously variable speed transmissions have been available in small cars & SUV's for several years now, operate on the Salsbury principle like used on snowmobiles, etc. Not a rubber V-belt like the cheap off-topic lawn tractors use.
Had to laugh at Bill "QQ" J.'s comment, reminded me of a comment another person made to me on another forum that the little 7 & 8 HP lawn tractors acted as powerful under really low or no loads as a 16, 17, & 20+ HP tractors. Just another situation where someone with NO experience with tractors or equipment formed an incorrect assumption based off their totally inaccurate "butt dyno". I mean really, in the case of full size ag tractors, if a 30-35 HP tractor could do everything a 70-150 HP tractor could do, why would anyone buy the larger tractor?
I forget who all worked on them, but flexible steel belt continuously variable speed transmissions have been available in small cars & SUV's for several years now, operate on the Salsbury principle like used on snowmobiles, etc. Not a rubber V-belt like the cheap off-topic lawn tractors use.
Had to laugh at Bill "QQ" J.'s comment, reminded me of a comment another person made to me on another forum that the little 7 & 8 HP lawn tractors acted as powerful under really low or no loads as a 16, 17, & 20+ HP tractors. Just another situation where someone with NO experience with tractors or equipment formed an incorrect assumption based off their totally inaccurate "butt dyno". I mean really, in the case of full size ag tractors, if a 30-35 HP tractor could do everything a 70-150 HP tractor could do, why would anyone buy the larger tractor?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dennis - wait a minute here. You just said:
"reminded me of a comment another person made to me on another forum that the little 7 & 8 HP lawn tractors acted as powerful under really low or no loads as a 16, 17, & 20+ HP tractors"
Key words here are "under really low or no loads". Seems to me the little 7-8 hp do seem to act as powerful. You really can't tell the difference until you put a load on (except they do sound different).
"reminded me of a comment another person made to me on another forum that the little 7 & 8 HP lawn tractors acted as powerful under really low or no loads as a 16, 17, & 20+ HP tractors"
Key words here are "under really low or no loads". Seems to me the little 7-8 hp do seem to act as powerful. You really can't tell the difference until you put a load on (except they do sound different).
HARRY - Put a 50 inch deck under a stock CC 70 and try mowing foot tall weeds in 3rd gear.
Point I was trying to make was that a Butt dyno is NO WAY capable of determining relative performance under ANY circumstances.
As in Bill "QQ" J's comment, he didn't have any belt or transmisssion issues because he wasn't pulling heavy draft loads with his O/T tractors.
On the little motors, WAY too easy to over-load them, plus you normally end up running them on the ragged edge which leads to much shorter service lifes. Been there....Done that, have the 4-5 wore-out K161/181's to prove it.
Point I was trying to make was that a Butt dyno is NO WAY capable of determining relative performance under ANY circumstances.
As in Bill "QQ" J's comment, he didn't have any belt or transmisssion issues because he wasn't pulling heavy draft loads with his O/T tractors.
On the little motors, WAY too easy to over-load them, plus you normally end up running them on the ragged edge which leads to much shorter service lifes. Been there....Done that, have the 4-5 wore-out K161/181's to prove it.
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Dennis - I pull the same loads with the IHCC's as I do with the other color tractors - more specifically a Wheelhorse. I pull a 12 inch moldboard, trailers, push snow, I've even stretched woven wire fence with my O/T tractor.
In every case - the belt just doesn't slip, the wheels do. Even on the mowing deck, where there is a belt drive, if I mow the tall grass to fast, the belt will pull tight and kill the motor, Cub or O/T machine.
Not trying to get under your skin (or anyone elses), but that is just the simple fact.
Can we move on to something else?
In every case - the belt just doesn't slip, the wheels do. Even on the mowing deck, where there is a belt drive, if I mow the tall grass to fast, the belt will pull tight and kill the motor, Cub or O/T machine.
Not trying to get under your skin (or anyone elses), but that is just the simple fact.
Can we move on to something else?
hydroharry
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Bill QQ - the off topic's slip because they have keep tires and can't get traction.
Dennis - yes I'm trying to get under your skin. I already said the key words you posted were:
"under really low or no loads".
And I said: "Seems to me the little 7-8 hp do seem to act as powerful.
Everything you are describing like 1 foot tall grass and 50 in deck JUST AIN'T "low or no load".
In other words, if you have no load, no attachment, nothing pulling on the engine EXCEPT the drive wheels, on a 7-8hp tractor, it's gonna act just like a 14 or 16hp tractor. If it's the same tractor. same hydro or same tranny/rear diff, just a bigger engine it ain't gonna act any different if there is NO LOAD.
Dennis - yes I'm trying to get under your skin. I already said the key words you posted were:
"under really low or no loads".
And I said: "Seems to me the little 7-8 hp do seem to act as powerful.
Everything you are describing like 1 foot tall grass and 50 in deck JUST AIN'T "low or no load".
In other words, if you have no load, no attachment, nothing pulling on the engine EXCEPT the drive wheels, on a 7-8hp tractor, it's gonna act just like a 14 or 16hp tractor. If it's the same tractor. same hydro or same tranny/rear diff, just a bigger engine it ain't gonna act any different if there is NO LOAD.
Yella' Mule update.
Runs great, but a couple issues.
Alternator not putting out. Have the shop manual, so some diagnostics are in order.
Front axle pivot pin hole in the frame is wallowed out to the extreme. Engine gonna have to be removed to repair the frame. Ouch!
Runs great, but a couple issues.
Alternator not putting out. Have the shop manual, so some diagnostics are in order.
Front axle pivot pin hole in the frame is wallowed out to the extreme. Engine gonna have to be removed to repair the frame. Ouch!
mfrade
Well-known member
I'll toss in 2 cents on the belt drive advantage/disadvantage topic.
The biggest advantage to an all shaft direct drive system is fewer components. No belt and sheeves or shaft bushing/bearings to wear out.
Just stating the obvious!
The biggest advantage to an all shaft direct drive system is fewer components. No belt and sheeves or shaft bushing/bearings to wear out.
Just stating the obvious!
Steve Noel
The pictures are lost but I know a length of thick flat bar can be welded to the front axle channel and a sleeve bearing and bolt (grade 8) and nut used . On a loader a bolt and nut keeps everything tight with the extra load. My .02
The pictures are lost but I know a length of thick flat bar can be welded to the front axle channel and a sleeve bearing and bolt (grade 8) and nut used . On a loader a bolt and nut keeps everything tight with the extra load. My .02
