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Archive through March 30, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Brian,
You can have a couple of different things causing the squeal. One is merely a slipping belt, either on the mower deck or the drive belt from the PTO. Another is slippage of the PTO itself, in which case it will need to be taken apart and a rebuild kit installed ($50 or so for parts if you DIY). The bearings in the mule drive, PTO, and the idler are sealed types, the spindles have grease fittings.
Another possibility is a pulley or belt is rubbing against something, like the big PTO pulley against the alternator belt tensioner, perhaps a stick got lodged in somewhere, or whatever.
You can have a couple of different things causing the squeal. One is merely a slipping belt, either on the mower deck or the drive belt from the PTO. Another is slippage of the PTO itself, in which case it will need to be taken apart and a rebuild kit installed ($50 or so for parts if you DIY). The bearings in the mule drive, PTO, and the idler are sealed types, the spindles have grease fittings.
Another possibility is a pulley or belt is rubbing against something, like the big PTO pulley against the alternator belt tensioner, perhaps a stick got lodged in somewhere, or whatever.
Ok, then on to the next question then. When I engage the tractor's PTO after 20-30 sec it starts to make a squeling noise. I'm hoping it's just b/c it has not been run in awhile & the mechanic at the dealer firgot to grease something. What do you guys think? I do have the ability to send video if you really wanna hear it. I'm hoping it isn't the PTO bearings or something like that.
Brian R,
Your 44a deck will fit on your NF. Pull the front pin out of where the hanger bracket attaches to your mule drive. Replace your NF hanger with the hump back hanger. You will have to bend the idler pulley arms so they face the center pulley otherwise the belt will fall off. I used an adjustable wrench. The last issue to overcome is deck height. I am still working on this problem. The deck barely lifts off the ground. I am going to fabricate some new hanger brackets sometime in April before the mowing season starts. Here is a picture of the hanger attached to my 147.
Your 44a deck will fit on your NF. Pull the front pin out of where the hanger bracket attaches to your mule drive. Replace your NF hanger with the hump back hanger. You will have to bend the idler pulley arms so they face the center pulley otherwise the belt will fall off. I used an adjustable wrench. The last issue to overcome is deck height. I am still working on this problem. The deck barely lifts off the ground. I am going to fabricate some new hanger brackets sometime in April before the mowing season starts. Here is a picture of the hanger attached to my 147.
I have a question or two of my own regarding my 129, which had a couple of issues when I "shook down" the mower today.
First issue seems to be a "busy" spring loaded tensioner on my 48" mower deck, it seems to be bouncing back and forth a couple of inches or so. The spindles are in good shape, but some of the pulleys got a little rusty from setting, along with some bends from trying to lever them off, though I made some attempts at the time to bend things back the way they should go. How much is normal? I remember the 42" deck on the 102 used a fixed tensioner.
The second problem is loosening head bolts. I've run the motor about 10 hours or so since I re-ringed it in the fall, and have retorqued the head bolts already. While running around the yard a bit today, I had one come loose, the engine started making tapping noises and losing power which tipped me that something is amiss. I tightened the bolt, which seems to have fixed it for now, but I have a feeling I will be replacing the head gasket in the near future.
One problem with this motor is that it lacks the studs in the block, so I have to remove 2 head bolts to remove the exhaust heat shield. I know it ain't the best thing in the world to do, so I'm actually thinking of installing studs in the block so I don't have to remove the head bolts to remove the heat shield. How hard is it to remove the studs from another block, and do you normally use Loctite or something similar to set them?
First issue seems to be a "busy" spring loaded tensioner on my 48" mower deck, it seems to be bouncing back and forth a couple of inches or so. The spindles are in good shape, but some of the pulleys got a little rusty from setting, along with some bends from trying to lever them off, though I made some attempts at the time to bend things back the way they should go. How much is normal? I remember the 42" deck on the 102 used a fixed tensioner.
The second problem is loosening head bolts. I've run the motor about 10 hours or so since I re-ringed it in the fall, and have retorqued the head bolts already. While running around the yard a bit today, I had one come loose, the engine started making tapping noises and losing power which tipped me that something is amiss. I tightened the bolt, which seems to have fixed it for now, but I have a feeling I will be replacing the head gasket in the near future.
One problem with this motor is that it lacks the studs in the block, so I have to remove 2 head bolts to remove the exhaust heat shield. I know it ain't the best thing in the world to do, so I'm actually thinking of installing studs in the block so I don't have to remove the head bolts to remove the heat shield. How hard is it to remove the studs from another block, and do you normally use Loctite or something similar to set them?
I'm not sure what catagory this falls under, so I'll just post in the open forum. This is a little project I started this winter. I've been a moldmaker for almost 20 years and a Cub lover longer,just finally put the two together.
These pictures are of the mold in a "ruff" state prior to heat treat.There will be considerable finish work and polish before its done
I'm looking for a molder for this if anyone has a contact, I'd love to hear from you. I probably won't be done for another six months, but they will be first class reproductions.
Here's my other project, I'll be at Rockford PD with mold and Original 4x4 (not running)
These pictures are of the mold in a "ruff" state prior to heat treat.There will be considerable finish work and polish before its done
I'm looking for a molder for this if anyone has a contact, I'd love to hear from you. I probably won't be done for another six months, but they will be first class reproductions.
Here's my other project, I'll be at Rockford PD with mold and Original 4x4 (not running)
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Rick B. -
You're trying to mold reflectors? There's already a company that makes them for the bicycle restoration community. I've had a sample on my desk for some time.
If Kraig's around, hopefully he'll repost the picture and the info...
You're trying to mold reflectors? There's already a company that makes them for the bicycle restoration community. I've had a sample on my desk for some time.
If Kraig's around, hopefully he'll repost the picture and the info...
Thanks all for yor responses to my anti rattle
spring question. I'm presently working on my
128, bringing it back. I bought it as a parts
tractor because it had a good motor and tranny.
Call me crazy but I just couldn't part it out.
It,s now about 75%. I thought about putting a
Tiller on it but I guess I'd have to add a
creeper.
spring question. I'm presently working on my
128, bringing it back. I bought it as a parts
tractor because it had a good motor and tranny.
Call me crazy but I just couldn't part it out.
It,s now about 75%. I thought about putting a
Tiller on it but I guess I'd have to add a
creeper.
Mornin' Fellas,
What do ya make of this ol' girl?
It looks to me like an Original model Cub, but then someone painted it red & white,,, or what is your guess???
Check it out at EBAY Item number: 110107332392
Ryan W
What do ya make of this ol' girl?
Check it out at EBAY Item number: 110107332392
Ryan W
Bryan, I'd love to see that sample for comparison or whatever.I researched what I could but never found another source. Anyway,way too late to stop now,what's America without competition?
I'd like to see the quality and price of those repops.My investment to date is just my time, I will have total of $350 bucks invested once I put the pictured inserts in a mold base.
With my LOW mold cost, and of course super-mega-awesome-ultimate High Quality work , mine will be hard to beat.
How about an LED version? Blue "dot" version?
I'd like to see the quality and price of those repops.My investment to date is just my time, I will have total of $350 bucks invested once I put the pictured inserts in a mold base.
With my LOW mold cost, and of course super-mega-awesome-ultimate High Quality work , mine will be hard to beat.
How about an LED version? Blue "dot" version?
Glen C.,
I'll take a stab at a guess....
I'll say it's called a "mud paddle". You have those for when you are going to be traveling across mud and will not function until the tires sink down some, then they come into contact with the mud/ground and help 'paddle' yourself outta there!
Ryan W
I'll take a stab at a guess....
I'll say it's called a "mud paddle". You have those for when you are going to be traveling across mud and will not function until the tires sink down some, then they come into contact with the mud/ground and help 'paddle' yourself outta there!
Ryan W
I found this blade on greedbay. I hope whoever buys it doesnt cut it up to put it on an ATV. Its a front blade for an original. I would imagine its rare. Maybe an original owner will buy it and use it for what it was intended to be used for.
THIS IS IN GOOD SHAPE MAY BE ABLE TO BE PUT ON AN ATV OR OTHER LAWN TRACTOR.
http://tinyurl.com/ytbbks
THIS IS IN GOOD SHAPE MAY BE ABLE TO BE PUT ON AN ATV OR OTHER LAWN TRACTOR.
http://tinyurl.com/ytbbks
dgallagher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
I stopped my 129 yesterday and it would not restart. In checking, I discovered the points had welded shut. I broke them apert, reset, and it started right up. Is there a cause for this? Something I did wrong? Thanks
Dave T.
I assume your talking about a rear plow?
If so, let it float. If you have it adjusted right, there's no need for down pressure unless the ground is super hard.
I assume your talking about a rear plow?
If so, let it float. If you have it adjusted right, there's no need for down pressure unless the ground is super hard.
rbedell
Well-known member
David G:
I would suggest that you replace the condenser.
If you have a DVM, the primary Ignition Coil Windings should be between 4 to 8 ohms. (The primary circuit is across the [+] and [-] terminals.) If you are lower than 4 ohms, replace the Ignition Coil.
I would suggest that you replace the condenser.
If you have a DVM, the primary Ignition Coil Windings should be between 4 to 8 ohms. (The primary circuit is across the [+] and [-] terminals.) If you are lower than 4 ohms, replace the Ignition Coil.
