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Archive through March 20, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Johnny P. I have that loader the tabs go under the rear axle with plates above or a u-bolt to lock it in place. The front does bolt up to the side of the frame, just remove your frankinstien bolts and reuse them along with two reg bolts on each side. I'll try to dig up a pic of mounted. Also there is enough spread to mount it on a wide frame pre 82 series, I currently have this loader mount on my 882D but I had to cut the frame and make extensions for the rear mounts.
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Okay, who pasted in the pictures of my thighs where Stan's biceps should be?
Stan,
How did the wheel bearings hold up with the weight of the loader on the 124?
What is behind the caution tape and to the right of your left shoulder in the 124 pic? It looks like a locomotive made from a 55-gallon drum and some sheet metal.
Uncle Grumpy,
I thought your compressor had gone ka-blooey. What ended up being the fix?
 
Just to add a little incentive to come to Plow Day 15.
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Brinly-Hardy is sending us a BRAND SPANKING NEW PLOW .
I have to give a SPECIAL THANKS to Brinly-Hardy and Kristin Cissell for the donation.
 
Great news on the plow, thanks Charlie.

Steering Wheel:

I've even went as far as to put a good quality antiseize on mine and it still doesn't come off worth a crap. Those steering wheels are a bugger to get off.
 
I just sent Johnny Perry a pdf of the RD-2000 loader manual. I also have the RD-300 manual. Digger, would you like me to send these to you to host on your manual page?

If anyone has a scan of the RD-1000 manual, I'd like a copy of it.

Keith
 
Keith L.
WELL YA!
And thank you so much!
I have the RD-300 but it's not the best, yours is prolly better.
But fire'um off and I'll get'um loaded up.
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brendan brigham:....just to add to what ken said about the filter placement....there are hi and low pressure hydrolic filters, so check your pressure rateing on the filter houseing you are useing, the high pressure filters are bulky, due to the houseing they require, for the pressures they have to deal with, and the filters are very pricey to replace....a low pressure filter ahead of the the pump or on the return line will do the trick...
 
Terry B,
They were all ready and willing to go, but we only got 2" of heavy wet stuff, so i didn't even bother going to the garage to wake them up.
Just north of here, they are gettin hammered, they can have it, I'm done playin for the winter, I hope.
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Who asked for this crap, anyway? It's been snowing since very late last night and isn't supposed to let up until after dark. 3-7" total supposedly. I'm home for spring break, but this looks anything like spring at the moment.... Boy, that auction I'm going to tomorrow is gonna be fun. Everything's gonna be under all this snow.
 
Well I might not be so lucky. There callin for 6 to 8 inches today and another 7 tonight. My cub will have to be on alert.
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Thanks to every one who responded to my question about pulling the steering wheel on my CC 147. I now have a new "21st century, super improved, extra added ingredient" tool that looks very much as a nut & bolt.........now why did I won't to pull the steering wheel???
 
Bruce - I used the old compressor. It's about burnt up and I'm thinking of buying a new pump today to put on it 'CAUSE THE KOBALT HASN'T BEEN SERVICED YET BY LOWES OR COLEMAN !!!!
I'm getting fed up with them !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Charlie - I'm wearing a Tee shirt working in the shop today
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Ken, I'd put some pants and shoes on too if you're working in the shop. Could be dangerous...

The wife picked up my fiber PTO button and rear transmission cover gasket today for me. Guess I'll get the Hytran in there this weekend after all.

Now I gotta get me one of them steering wheel pulling tools ya'll been spouting off about. The 100 steering wheel is chalked up and leaves black on bare hands. I want to pull it and paint it. It's got bad cracks in it too. I might try to fill the spots with epoxy before I paint it.

What's the method for using an air hammer to pull a steering wheel?
 
When you get a new/old Cub Cadet, what are the first things you do to get it running? In other words do you have a check list you use to get it up and running?
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Scott W.
I can tellya the first thing I do is check and clean all electrical connections, That seems to me to be most of the problems with new to us cubs.
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Hey Bruce, I replaced the front end on the 124 with one from an 82 series with the 1" axles and it held up fine. The chocho in the backgroung is a play house my nieghbor built for his kids.
Keith any chance you could email that manual to me for the rd 2000 that would be awsome.
[email protected]
thanks
 
Scott W.

You need to order this book:
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Other than that,
* Clean out the gas tank, change fuel filter/clean sediment bowl.
* Empty carb fuel bowl. Maybe rebuild carb, but you can try to start it first and then rebuild.
* Change engine oil.
* Install new spark plug.
* Clean points. Replace if extremely pitted.
* Inspect wires for broken insulation or exposed wiring. Clean ground connections. Sand condensor mounting area to insure good ground.
* Lubricate chassis and steering.
* Check clutch condition if gear drive. And/ or check hydro/ gear fluid level and color.

Maybe not in that order, but it's an idea start with.
Not sure what else. Maybe change head gasket/ de-carbon the head and valves, but I want to hear it run before I do that.
 
Started snowing 10 am est time. 4:00 and about 7 inchs of snow on ground and hasn't let up yet. I guess big Red cub is gonna have to clean up one more time this winter.
 

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