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Archive through March 02, 2006
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John, part# 2 can only be positioned where it is, note the ears on the transmission. I was thinking that part# 11 might be offset somehow. Perhaps the roll pin through part# 11 was installed in the wrong hole on the brake/shaft part# 9. Or the drawing is wrong and part# 11 is 180° off.
Kraig
I am certain the linkage is correct. I recieved it from another member parting out a 128. I'm not sure about the brake lever. It was missing on my 128 when I found it. I got the replacement brake levers through epay. I have the diagram you posted at home and also another drafted reference that appears to show the brake lever offset to one side. I am not sure if that is the case or if it just appears that way. The brake peddle bracket was never removed during tear down and it agrees with all the diagrams I have found so I think it is correct. Reversing the current brake lever would not help since it centered on the axis hub. The diagrams appear to show the lever as a piece of tube with flat stock welded onto it. The one I have installed is cast
(Message edited by tkiste on March 06, 2006)
I am certain the linkage is correct. I recieved it from another member parting out a 128. I'm not sure about the brake lever. It was missing on my 128 when I found it. I got the replacement brake levers through epay. I have the diagram you posted at home and also another drafted reference that appears to show the brake lever offset to one side. I am not sure if that is the case or if it just appears that way. The brake peddle bracket was never removed during tear down and it agrees with all the diagrams I have found so I think it is correct. Reversing the current brake lever would not help since it centered on the axis hub. The diagrams appear to show the lever as a piece of tube with flat stock welded onto it. The one I have installed is cast
(Message edited by tkiste on March 06, 2006)
Tim, in looking through various manuals and such it appears that the cast brake lever as mounted on the transmission housing in your photo was used on the 1x6 and a stamped/welded version as shown in the drawing I posted was used on the 1x8. Perhaps they are different in dimension as well as material.
Tim, I see we are thinking the same thing, you were editting while I was posting......
Tim,
Above is a 1x6 brake setup.
Above is a 1x8 brake setup.
Above is a 1x6 brake setup.
Above is a 1x8 brake setup.
Does anyone have the length of the brake lever as it is shown in the 2nd photo in kraig's post.
If the length of the two levers are the same I think it would be easier to fabricate a new linkage with one end longer to fit the offset than removing the current "painted in" brake lever. I'm guessing it would take a good bit of difference to affect the travel distance of the brake rods.
If the length of the two levers are the same I think it would be easier to fabricate a new linkage with one end longer to fit the offset than removing the current "painted in" brake lever. I'm guessing it would take a good bit of difference to affect the travel distance of the brake rods.
Wes, good point but the 126 parts drawing also shows a cast part# 2 for external brakes.
ok guys can someone assist me, this is my first post so if I do somehting wrong let me know. I am not currently home or I could find out for my self. I am deployed overseas with the military and will return soon, and Have a lot of work cut out for my Cub. My Question is can you change up the motor size in a Cub or is it limited to the series that has the same characteristics. I want to go up to a 14hp ( K321) but dont know If all the linkage will be the same?? I have swaped a 10hp and a 12hp but can i go up 14hp with the same tractor. thanks guys
Paul,
It depends upon what model you are trying to put it in. You list a 107, 127, and 129 in your profile. The 129 would be a simple swap without any changes. The 2 narrow frames will be a little more work. You would either have to notch the frame for the larger flywheel or put the smaller flywheel and end plate of the old engine. Seeing as how you are from Texas, I would not put the smaller flywheel on if I was going to work it hard for lack of proper cooling.
It depends upon what model you are trying to put it in. You list a 107, 127, and 129 in your profile. The 129 would be a simple swap without any changes. The 2 narrow frames will be a little more work. You would either have to notch the frame for the larger flywheel or put the smaller flywheel and end plate of the old engine. Seeing as how you are from Texas, I would not put the smaller flywheel on if I was going to work it hard for lack of proper cooling.
After raking leaves all winter long and still not having won the battle, I am seriously looking for a bagger system. Given where I live and the size of my lot, a trailer type system is serious overkill. Has anyone adapted a readily available bagger to their cub? I'm considering finding a bagger that has a blower that mounts to the chute on the deck to blow the grass to the bagger. But this requires a double pulley to be mounted in place of the pulley on the right hand deck blade. Is there an appropriate double pulley available? Has anyone performed such "surgery"?
Chuck J,
Your talkin about a power flow setup, I've never seen one on a Cub, but the green guys run'um all the time. Should work on a Cub though. And yes you can get the pulleys.
I did my first bagger setup on my 100 this way.
And my 123 has a Peco bagger that will suck the grass up if your not careful, LOL
http://www.cubfaq.com/123bagger.mpg
Your talkin about a power flow setup, I've never seen one on a Cub, but the green guys run'um all the time. Should work on a Cub though. And yes you can get the pulleys.
I did my first bagger setup on my 100 this way.
And my 123 has a Peco bagger that will suck the grass up if your not careful, LOL
http://www.cubfaq.com/123bagger.mpg
Paul S,
If your talkin about uping the engine size in a narrow frame tractor, yes you can put a 14 in anything, but you'll have to use the fly wheel & sheetmetal off the 10 or 12 on the 14 to get it to fit or cut gussets in the frame.
Or get a 147 frame with the gussets already in it.
Sorry Wes,
I dint see your post, I think it's bedtime! LOL
(Message edited by cproctor on March 06, 2006)
If your talkin about uping the engine size in a narrow frame tractor, yes you can put a 14 in anything, but you'll have to use the fly wheel & sheetmetal off the 10 or 12 on the 14 to get it to fit or cut gussets in the frame.
Or get a 147 frame with the gussets already in it.
Sorry Wes,
I dint see your post, I think it's bedtime! LOL
(Message edited by cproctor on March 06, 2006)
Chuck,
It's a crapsman bagger setup and it works great. I modified some hi-lift gator blades that push the clippings and leaves quite well.
I heated up the deck chute to form fit it to the deck as to not have any air leaks.
I've not used it since I got the Peco put on the 123.
It's a crapsman bagger setup and it works great. I modified some hi-lift gator blades that push the clippings and leaves quite well.
I heated up the deck chute to form fit it to the deck as to not have any air leaks.
I've not used it since I got the Peco put on the 123.
Paul S., welcome to the forum and thanks for your service!!!!!
Steve B., nice mods to the trailer! I think you should sell that trailer to me for little or no $$$ and then you should buy a bigger trailer to go with your new truck.
Steve B., nice mods to the trailer! I think you should sell that trailer to me for little or no $$$ and then you should buy a bigger trailer to go with your new truck.
Charlie, have you had to charge the battery in that 123 yet?
