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Archive through March 02, 2006
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Rick M,
Had it since 1975.
Jerry B,
Had it since 1975.
Jerry B,
LOL! Jerry isn't kidding either the link below is a shot of a turtle I found on the property. Pay no attention to that... Check out the ground around him, half my property looks like that piece of ground.
http://www.bananaskin.com/~rick/land_photos/DSC00022.JPG
I have no problems with traction on the 1200, but try and plow a trench. Oh, and it's hell on a mowing deck too!
http://www.bananaskin.com/~rick/land_photos/DSC00022.JPG
I have no problems with traction on the 1200, but try and plow a trench. Oh, and it's hell on a mowing deck too!
Charlie, at least Jerry didn't say you had rocks in your head......
In a current Granger Industrial Supply Catalog they list Red 12 Ounce cans of Spray Paint in "Red International harvestor" for $2.62/each. Stock Number 6MT47. Thought some red 82 series enthusiast may find that to be a bargain.
I'm installing hydraulic lift on my 169 restoration project to replace the factory installed manual lift. In order to complete the installation, one needs to install a stiffer spring (IH #538 593 R1) in the implement relief check valve port on top of the ported hydro pump and move the lighter stiffness spring (IH 538 591 R1) over to the charge pump relief valve port on the right side which has no spring when the hydraulic ports are capped off. When I went to the local Cub Cadet dealer to get an implement relief valve spring, they told me that is was no longer available, much to my dismay. However, Travis at CC Specialties, one of this forum's fine sponsors, suggested trying a John Deere dealer as their 170 and 300 series lawn tractors used the same Sunstrand pumps that Cub Cadet used for many years. The 170 series had non-ported pumps and the 300 series had ported pumps. Visiting the JD dealer proved fruitful as the spring was still available through them. Their part number is M85504. One could probably get other hydro parts from them as well. Hope others may find this info useful.
dsnyderwine
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2004
- Messages
- 8
- displayname
- David L Snyderwine Jr
I mounted my snow thrower on my 125 and tried to tighten the belt using the piece of hardware on the side of the thrower but it seems to loosen the belt rather than tightening it. I must be misisng something.
Bobby B,
They will interchange but most 1250's have manual lifts, so if your 149 has hydraulic lift you'll be using armstrong from now on.
If your talkin about just the innards of the rearends, Yes to that too.
David S,
The butterfly piece sticking out to adjust the belt has to turn clockwise looking at it to tighten the belt. There's a little clip that is NEVER with throwers when you get them that holds tension. Most guys drill a small hole in the ends of that butterfly and use a small piece of wire to hold tension.
Course you dint mention what thrower you mounted, so the above may not apply. ;-P
I've seen some pretty strange modifications this year on thrower tractor combinations.
They will interchange but most 1250's have manual lifts, so if your 149 has hydraulic lift you'll be using armstrong from now on.
If your talkin about just the innards of the rearends, Yes to that too.
David S,
The butterfly piece sticking out to adjust the belt has to turn clockwise looking at it to tighten the belt. There's a little clip that is NEVER with throwers when you get them that holds tension. Most guys drill a small hole in the ends of that butterfly and use a small piece of wire to hold tension.
Course you dint mention what thrower you mounted, so the above may not apply. ;-P
I've seen some pretty strange modifications this year on thrower tractor combinations.
Bobby,
Have you checked things out underneath?
Check the fluid level in the creeper too.
Dry gears don't like to work right ya know.
Have you checked things out underneath?
Check the fluid level in the creeper too.
Dry gears don't like to work right ya know.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Spent the morning adding some storage to my trailer. I needed a nice, secure, weather-tight way to keep tie straps, jack, tire wrench, bungees, axle straps, etc.
I used 2ea. "20mm" and a .50 cal ammo can(s). Tucked in real nice on the frame of the trailer on angle iron frames. I cut off all of the handles and other junk, then welded chain links to the 20mm cans to allow me to lock them shut with a simple padlock.
I used 2ea. "20mm" and a .50 cal ammo can(s). Tucked in real nice on the frame of the trailer on angle iron frames. I cut off all of the handles and other junk, then welded chain links to the 20mm cans to allow me to lock them shut with a simple padlock.
Steve,
Looks like the height of the box worked out great with the top of the rail on your trailer. From the position of the mounting holes, it looks like you still have room between the box and trailer to drop a strap/hook/whatever. Did you weld nuts on the bottom or tap threads in the brackets to run bolts through the bottom of the box? Do the lids still remove completely, or are they hinged on the front side with only a padlock on the back? I can't tell on the black-on-black "painted/installed" pictures. I guess I need to see the eye doctor again.
If you didn't already do it, it might not be a bad idea to spray some kind of resilient undercoating on the bottom to reduce gravel damage, keep road spray from working into the cracks, rusting, etc.
Looks good, and should give you what you wanted. Nice.
Decals to follow?
Looks like the height of the box worked out great with the top of the rail on your trailer. From the position of the mounting holes, it looks like you still have room between the box and trailer to drop a strap/hook/whatever. Did you weld nuts on the bottom or tap threads in the brackets to run bolts through the bottom of the box? Do the lids still remove completely, or are they hinged on the front side with only a padlock on the back? I can't tell on the black-on-black "painted/installed" pictures. I guess I need to see the eye doctor again.
If you didn't already do it, it might not be a bad idea to spray some kind of resilient undercoating on the bottom to reduce gravel damage, keep road spray from working into the cracks, rusting, etc.
Looks good, and should give you what you wanted. Nice.
Decals to follow?
After seeing Jerry Harvey's roto tiller and looking out at my crappy lawn. I'm thinking about looking for a tiller for my 125 to completely destroy my lawn and starting over.
It's manual lift for the mower deck/snow thrower.
What all would I need to use the tiller? ( besides the tiller and angle drive )
Thanks
Jeff
It's manual lift for the mower deck/snow thrower.
What all would I need to use the tiller? ( besides the tiller and angle drive )
Thanks
Jeff D,
Since you have manual lift, a spring assist will make your life much easier.
Since you have manual lift, a spring assist will make your life much easier.
Jeff D,
Besides the tiller and angle drive, a good working PTO does wonders, you are also going to need an IH 3-point rear lift on the back to lift it. digger said it when he said a spring assist, if you don't have hydro lift you will notice your right arm getting much bigger than your left after lifting that thing a couple times. Also a set of Ag tires or Tire Chains and wheel weights help. I've used a tiller on my 125 and I really liked it, it did a great job and tilled very nicely.
(Message edited by kduffy on March 05, 2006)
Besides the tiller and angle drive, a good working PTO does wonders, you are also going to need an IH 3-point rear lift on the back to lift it. digger said it when he said a spring assist, if you don't have hydro lift you will notice your right arm getting much bigger than your left after lifting that thing a couple times. Also a set of Ag tires or Tire Chains and wheel weights help. I've used a tiller on my 125 and I really liked it, it did a great job and tilled very nicely.
(Message edited by kduffy on March 05, 2006)
Is this the correct brake lever for a 128?
When I attempt to insert the brake linkage rod, the brake lever and the brake peddle bracket are out of alignment by about 1/2". Do I need correct parts, correct assembly, or just a BFH?
(Message edited by tkiste on March 06, 2006)
When I attempt to insert the brake linkage rod, the brake lever and the brake peddle bracket are out of alignment by about 1/2". Do I need correct parts, correct assembly, or just a BFH?
(Message edited by tkiste on March 06, 2006)
Tim, looks like the correct part, are you sure the linkage is the correct one?
