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Archive through June 28, 2005
- Thread starter bmoore
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I works on all of them.......70 thru 782....that use the rear "fork" style subframe. Deck style/width is not a factor either.
BTW, the manual wouldn't have told you that trick anyway
(Message edited by sblunier on June 29, 2005)
BTW, the manual wouldn't have told you that trick anyway
(Message edited by sblunier on June 29, 2005)
Mower sub frames>
Also check the fork for wear and if needed build it back up. An arc welder works best for this.
Another item to check is the rockshaft for wear, I have found a couple rockshafts worn half way through,(where the fork slips over the rockshaft)again a arc welder works best for building up the worn away metal. Works best with the rockshaft removed from the tractor.
(Message edited by lbuttke on June 29, 2005)
Also check the fork for wear and if needed build it back up. An arc welder works best for this.
Another item to check is the rockshaft for wear, I have found a couple rockshafts worn half way through,(where the fork slips over the rockshaft)again a arc welder works best for building up the worn away metal. Works best with the rockshaft removed from the tractor.
(Message edited by lbuttke on June 29, 2005)
Steve, was this photo (posted fall of 2001) one that you had 'doctored' to illustrate your fix for the nose diving mower decks?
LONNY - I was going to add that info too. I've rebuilt the rockshaft on My #72 twice in the last 20+ yrs. The sissor arm will almost wear it in two. I welded a flat plate about 2" x 3/4" to 1" wide on the lower side of it where it slides under the rockshaft. IHC did this on the later mule drives also. Sure saves the rockshaft.
From the archives:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Originally posted by Steve Blunier April 2001.
48" (any deck actually) adjustments:
I never follow the manual advice for leveling side to side on a used deck, especially the formed sheet metal decks made late 60's thru early 70's. If you measure the "top of the mower housing" on these decks you will not be getting a true reading. These decks, especially the 48", are very easily warped by previous abuse (using them as a step stool, battering ram, mid mount blade, etc.)and often times the deck skin becomes twisted and contorted. (This is one of the flaws of this vintage IH deck, the gauge wheel brackets were not very well supported and the ends of the deck bent rather easily).
ALWAYS measure cutting height from hard surface to blade cutting edge when leveling a deck, NEVER rely on the deck skin measurement. This holds true for both fore/aft and side/side adjustments.
Last 48" deck I leveled for a friend took considerable reshaping of the deck skin just to get the gauge wheels close to the same height (I acutally had to block it up on 2x4's and step on it to get it straightened out).
Other tips, If you run out of height adjustment at point "C", remove the sub frame and bend the arm that slips over the lift rockshaft up in the air another 1/2"-3/4", you will need a torch for this. The extra bend will lift the subframe higher in the air at point "C" and allow you to properly level the mower fore/aft. Seems IH was pretty skimpy with the adjustment range at point "C" and I'll bet many mowers left the dealerships cutting "downhill" from day-one.
I also prefer the adjustable links (between the lift arms and the sub-frame) for side/side adjustment in place of the washer method described in the book. They are avaliable from your CC dealer. You only need one (one side) to level most mowers. I always thought that the washer method put much more stress on the rear mount area than necessary, especially considering that IH decks usually crack at the rear attachment points anyway. In-fact, I have had to reinforce both of my decks at the rear hangers due to washers and skin cracking.
Mower gauge wheels.
If you are hanging the deck:
1) Get deck level
2) Set cutting height and recheck level
3) Set gauge wheels so that they are 1/2" to 3/4" off of the ground. (You may want to fine tune your cutting height to make the 1/2"-3/4" clearance as close to 1/2" as possible)
With the wheels set like this the deck rides in the thatch of the lawn. This takes out alot of the bouncing and rough riding associated with leaving
the deck ride directly on the ground, but also "preloads" the gauge wheels so that they are always ready to lift the deck over a bump or ridge. Keeping them down in the thatch prevents the deck from streaking when the wheels lift it because the difference in cutting height between the slung deck and the wheels is only 1/2" or so. This is where the spring assist trick really makes a deck work...you can ride on the ground with a
featherlight "spring" touch, always ready to float over a bump.
My 44" is set up for a "finger tip" of clearance under the wheels.
BTW, the front gauge wheel will always ride high at "normal" cutting heights. It's purpose is to save the lawn/blade on those big scalps, not to
control deck height.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Originally posted by Steve Blunier April 2001.
48" (any deck actually) adjustments:
I never follow the manual advice for leveling side to side on a used deck, especially the formed sheet metal decks made late 60's thru early 70's. If you measure the "top of the mower housing" on these decks you will not be getting a true reading. These decks, especially the 48", are very easily warped by previous abuse (using them as a step stool, battering ram, mid mount blade, etc.)and often times the deck skin becomes twisted and contorted. (This is one of the flaws of this vintage IH deck, the gauge wheel brackets were not very well supported and the ends of the deck bent rather easily).
ALWAYS measure cutting height from hard surface to blade cutting edge when leveling a deck, NEVER rely on the deck skin measurement. This holds true for both fore/aft and side/side adjustments.
Last 48" deck I leveled for a friend took considerable reshaping of the deck skin just to get the gauge wheels close to the same height (I acutally had to block it up on 2x4's and step on it to get it straightened out).
Other tips, If you run out of height adjustment at point "C", remove the sub frame and bend the arm that slips over the lift rockshaft up in the air another 1/2"-3/4", you will need a torch for this. The extra bend will lift the subframe higher in the air at point "C" and allow you to properly level the mower fore/aft. Seems IH was pretty skimpy with the adjustment range at point "C" and I'll bet many mowers left the dealerships cutting "downhill" from day-one.
I also prefer the adjustable links (between the lift arms and the sub-frame) for side/side adjustment in place of the washer method described in the book. They are avaliable from your CC dealer. You only need one (one side) to level most mowers. I always thought that the washer method put much more stress on the rear mount area than necessary, especially considering that IH decks usually crack at the rear attachment points anyway. In-fact, I have had to reinforce both of my decks at the rear hangers due to washers and skin cracking.
Mower gauge wheels.
If you are hanging the deck:
1) Get deck level
2) Set cutting height and recheck level
3) Set gauge wheels so that they are 1/2" to 3/4" off of the ground. (You may want to fine tune your cutting height to make the 1/2"-3/4" clearance as close to 1/2" as possible)
With the wheels set like this the deck rides in the thatch of the lawn. This takes out alot of the bouncing and rough riding associated with leaving
the deck ride directly on the ground, but also "preloads" the gauge wheels so that they are always ready to lift the deck over a bump or ridge. Keeping them down in the thatch prevents the deck from streaking when the wheels lift it because the difference in cutting height between the slung deck and the wheels is only 1/2" or so. This is where the spring assist trick really makes a deck work...you can ride on the ground with a
featherlight "spring" touch, always ready to float over a bump.
My 44" is set up for a "finger tip" of clearance under the wheels.
BTW, the front gauge wheel will always ride high at "normal" cutting heights. It's purpose is to save the lawn/blade on those big scalps, not to
control deck height.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
More from the archives:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
This was added by Steve Blunier on July 5th, 2001:
I will add the following:
Check your tire pressures before trying to level a deck..1-2 psi can make a big difference in cutting height.
Level the mower side to side and fore and aft so that all of the blades are cutting the exact same height (measure from blade tip). Measure each
blade both "inline" with the tractor and perpendicular to the tractor.
I like my decks to be dead level (same measurement front and back), some will say run the front of the blade 1/4"-1/2" lower than the rear....1/4"
nose down. I think that this promotes scalping, but do what you think is best.
Check for washers/no washers under the blades, this will cause spindle to spindle cutting height changes.
Check level with the belt on and tensioned...sometimes (especially on 38" and 42" decks with the big center blades) the belt tension will "tweak" the
center blade adjustment.
If the skin is not square/true use any and all means at your disposal to fix it....shims, washers, hammer, BFH, whatever it takes to get everything in the same cutting plane.
While you are overhauling your deck check for wear on the rockshaft fork, front eyes, and rear hangers. Also check for cracks near the rear hanger mounts, gauge wheels, and center spindle. Fix all problems as necessary...weak areas like those mentioned above make leveling a deck harder to do right and also result in a deck that won't "hold it's level" for very long.
Correctly leveling a deck might take 4-5 hours worth of carefull measuring and adjusting (at least the first time), but the results will be well worth it. Those of us here that have spent time on our decks are rewarded with "showcase quality" cuts on our lawns.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
This was added by Steve Blunier on July 5th, 2001:
I will add the following:
Check your tire pressures before trying to level a deck..1-2 psi can make a big difference in cutting height.
Level the mower side to side and fore and aft so that all of the blades are cutting the exact same height (measure from blade tip). Measure each
blade both "inline" with the tractor and perpendicular to the tractor.
I like my decks to be dead level (same measurement front and back), some will say run the front of the blade 1/4"-1/2" lower than the rear....1/4"
nose down. I think that this promotes scalping, but do what you think is best.
Check for washers/no washers under the blades, this will cause spindle to spindle cutting height changes.
Check level with the belt on and tensioned...sometimes (especially on 38" and 42" decks with the big center blades) the belt tension will "tweak" the
center blade adjustment.
If the skin is not square/true use any and all means at your disposal to fix it....shims, washers, hammer, BFH, whatever it takes to get everything in the same cutting plane.
While you are overhauling your deck check for wear on the rockshaft fork, front eyes, and rear hangers. Also check for cracks near the rear hanger mounts, gauge wheels, and center spindle. Fix all problems as necessary...weak areas like those mentioned above make leveling a deck harder to do right and also result in a deck that won't "hold it's level" for very long.
Correctly leveling a deck might take 4-5 hours worth of carefull measuring and adjusting (at least the first time), but the results will be well worth it. Those of us here that have spent time on our decks are rewarded with "showcase quality" cuts on our lawns.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
S
svtritle
Guest
Charlie and Steve B. Thanks a lot for the help. I played a bit last night while moving a trailer around. Your info will help quite a bit.
Now, I will order a shop manual......
Now, I will order a shop manual......
Jim Bailey, if you read this please email me I need to verify your mailing address for your Plow Day 9 video and Photo Collection CDs.
Got a line on +/- 45 acres near the intersection of Rt.12 and 120 just north of Volo, Illinois from a tip from Rick "M". Haven't talked to the owner yet, but the field has been planted with corn. What is the consensus on plowing in corn stubble??
Tom >
About the only good corn stubble field to plow under with our size tractors & plows would be a corn field that was chopped for silage and then rolled, to prevent cutting of the sidewalls of our beloved ag tires.
I personaly have plowed in a old hay field and found it to be a good challange. (depth control/speed to lay over the furrow)
About the only good corn stubble field to plow under with our size tractors & plows would be a corn field that was chopped for silage and then rolled, to prevent cutting of the sidewalls of our beloved ag tires.
I personaly have plowed in a old hay field and found it to be a good challange. (depth control/speed to lay over the furrow)
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I have plowed chiseled corn stalks with my modified 12" plow, but is was a challenge (and that was for a plow that never plugged once at Travis's this spring, with the coulter).
Corn Stalks + Brinly Plow = BIG MESS (IMHO)
...Tom, by alll means, keep up the efforts though, somebody needs to come thru with some property to turn black this fall!!!!
Thanks!!!
Corn Stalks + Brinly Plow = BIG MESS (IMHO)
...Tom, by alll means, keep up the efforts though, somebody needs to come thru with some property to turn black this fall!!!!
Would you guys be receptive to something in Minnesota if I could find a nice little 80???? Let me know PDQ so that I may check with the land owner. I realize that we where just in Iowa this spring. But we do need to decide ASAP on a fall Play Day place and time.
and it would be in bean stubble but we may have to park on corn stubble.
(Message edited by hsimon on July 01, 2005)
and it would be in bean stubble but we may have to park on corn stubble.
(Message edited by hsimon on July 01, 2005)
Minnesota works for me too!
I offered up 80 acres last year with a paved parking lot 20 feet from the field with a eatin place 200 yards away and got shot down, so I guess corn stubble parking is more suited to plow days.
I offered up 80 acres last year with a paved parking lot 20 feet from the field with a eatin place 200 yards away and got shot down, so I guess corn stubble parking is more suited to plow days.
till
Well-known member
Hi Dave!!!
Minnesota works for me. How many hours......
Minnesota works for me. How many hours......
