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Archive through June 25, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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sblunier

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,826
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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Wyatt,

Those wheel weights look familiar
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Wheatland parts are looking good!!!
 
Hello all. Im a new member here but a long time visitor. I ran across an interesting machine today, tis a shame I didnt get a chance to find this sooner as maybe someone here would have like to have a chance to look at it.
 
That's a nice hydraulic setup for powering down the blade! I'm looking at this on my phone, but I'm trying to figure out what the valving is behind the dash. If its a flow divider for the lift cylinders, I'm even more impressed.
 
Just my word on vanguard B/S motors and motor swaps with direction problems. The B/s motor uses a plain out put case no bearing. Basically a hole drilled through alum. not even a Babbitt insert. this can work on low load oil presurised locations but this is not what you want here if you want reliability not just a through away motor. As far as correcting rotation problems build your own gear box. I put a Gold wing 84HP motor in my Cushman three wheeler to to replace the wimpy 18 HP one. To align engine out put shaft with Toyota rear end and correct gear ratio I used gears / bearings / shafts from a scrap iron Honda motor used three shafts to keep my rotation correct but if you use two shafts instead rotation is reversed. Or you can simply turn motor around and make a adapter to run off fly wheel end.
 
Kurt... you have serious talent,I checked out your website a few days ago and was amazed of the work you do. Your a luucky man to be able to do that for a living. I would love to have any one of them. Maybe someday,,
 
So I solved my "whats my fluid level" problem...

I got these high temp/pressure sight glass's from a chiller we took out at work.

I drilled a hole and welded in a bung and painted , now theres no question on my fluid level.
The last photo shows them side by side and the angle is decieving but the fluid sits even with the bottom of the originals fill plug.

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Wyatt I like the small ones but these big ones where free and I like free.

I am making another one this weekend

Kraig I do like Aarons also

thanks Jeremiah
 
Last weekend, the Syracuse Nationals Car show was at the fairgrounds... Upon strolling down one of the aisles, I spied this Cub w/ a 351C Ford in it.. It had the cub rear in it. It sounded way cool when he drove it away..

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Scott, Looks more like a 351 Ford with a Cub Cadet attached to it.
 
If you're having trouble picking between a wide and narrow frame, round fender or square, red or yellow paint .... go with as many options as you can:
Wide narrow frame round fenders painted red
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Wyatt,
That might do something gnarly with the space-time continuum or something....
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Got a question about rebuilding a k-241 . Long story short I've got to order some parts. The motor wasnt seized up ,didnt throw a rod so I'm startin with a pretty good block.I did have the crank miced and its good,just needs polished up.The cylindar needs bored 10 over, also needs a valve job. Should I go with a kit from Stens &Rotary or spend the extra money and buy kohler oem parts? I've seen a guy sellin a complete rebuild kit for around $100.00 . Thats for rod,piston & rings,valves,gaskets &seals,points & condensor. I've heard good things and bad things about them kits.I guess it mostly oppinion and quality machine work. What do you guys think.I would like to go with oem but is it worth the extra money.
 
Steering box rebuild; something I've recently found that I thought I'd share.

I've been replacing all my 2-turn steering gears with 3-turn steering gears. The most plentiful and cheapest tractor to scavenge from are the off-topic 200-214 series of tractors. The parts they're built with are built much stronger than the belt drive, so as a result there's plenty of parts out there with some life left to them. What I noticed was the bottom cap, its a different setup than IH used. Instead of having the bearing race machined into the cap, they have a machined steel race and a belleville washer. This allows the cap to be tightened down to preload the bearings. This is a MUCH improved design that is a direct swap.

Here's the parts, from left to right, the stock upper stamped race, two sets of ball bearings, the machined race, belleville washer, and cap to fit the race and washer. To the right is the OEM Cub Cadet cap, you can see it has been worn badly by overtightening.
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Hello all, I'm finally posting some picts of the latest and greatest "little tractor" to come out of my shop. It started out as a Cub Cadet 782D which is a "standard" sized garden tractor with a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel from the factory. I'm sure the Cub Cadet purist may be upset with me that I cut such a rare machine up, but I only do what I'm paid to do...

First I installed a turbo charger off an European Smart Car...
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Next I made all new sheet metal and fenders...
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A little paint...
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And put everything back together...
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This machine was created totally as a show piece and still has the stock hydro tranny in it. It will never pull a sled. The owner is going to build a "Father" Pro Stock tractor this winter though, so you may see my tractor pulling the daddy through the pits.

Kurt

www.TheLittleTractorCo.com
 
Charlie...I wasnt sure where to put my last post, still tryin to figure tha out. thanks
 

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