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Archive through June 22, 2008
- Thread starter mcaruth
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I was just runnin thru some of the pictures to see if I could find a good shot of how the throtle linkage is installed on a 1450 engine. I have had this thing apart for so long, I forgot how to put it back together. I'm looking for the linkage on the left side of the shroud. I can't seem to find a good picture anywhere.... Help!
James S.
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Michael, it sounds like you have one of two possible things happening.
1 - The solenoid is bad. There are three terminals on the solenoid, two large and one small. Find the one large terminal that is hot. Jump from that larger terminal to the small terminal. If this causes the starter to engage, the solenoid is still good.
2 - If the above does not work, then you should be looking at the starter switch.
There is a safety feature in the electric PTO switch (if it has an electric PTO) that may cause a similar problem. After isolating that the solenoid and starter switch are good, then I would turn my attention to the PTO switch.
Here is s simple diagram of the internals of the solenoid.
http://www.light-sport-aircraft.org/challenger-wiring/starter-solenoid.jpg
1 - The solenoid is bad. There are three terminals on the solenoid, two large and one small. Find the one large terminal that is hot. Jump from that larger terminal to the small terminal. If this causes the starter to engage, the solenoid is still good.
2 - If the above does not work, then you should be looking at the starter switch.
There is a safety feature in the electric PTO switch (if it has an electric PTO) that may cause a similar problem. After isolating that the solenoid and starter switch are good, then I would turn my attention to the PTO switch.
Here is s simple diagram of the internals of the solenoid.
http://www.light-sport-aircraft.org/challenger-wiring/starter-solenoid.jpg
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Has anyone put the fine-spline carrier and all the other guts from a hydro aluminum rear into an iron hydro rear? I seem to remember seeing that someone had done this, but I can't remember. Anyway, anyone have any pointers beyond what the manuals say regarding disassembly and reassembly? I'm ordering all new gaskets and seals for it. Anything else I should do while I'm in there?
Mike Caruth,
A 149 has a manual front PTO clutch unless someone has heavily modified or replaced your original engine with a Quietline series engine, which would also require modifications to the frame.
It sounds like your solenoid is working fine assuming you are following the directions mentioned by John W below. I would next focus on the safety switches. There will be either one or two depending upon when your 149 was built. The first is easy to check by removing the tunnel cover and it is located down by the brake pedal rockshaft. There should be a spring clip on the rockshaft that depresses the switch button. Frequently those spring clips fatigue and break with years of use and then your Cubbie won't start. Also pull the wire connector off and clean the wire terminals on back of the switch with some emery cloth and blow the dirt build up out of the wire connector while your at it. If you have a test light you can check to see if you are getting current down to the lower safety switch.
If your Cubbie serial number is >482000 and your mower PTO clutch has a brake on it, then there is a second switch under that dash that prevents starting the Cubbie with the PTO engaged. It too has a spring clip on the PTO lever shaft that can break. Check it and clean the wire connections as well.
Hope this helps.
A 149 has a manual front PTO clutch unless someone has heavily modified or replaced your original engine with a Quietline series engine, which would also require modifications to the frame.
It sounds like your solenoid is working fine assuming you are following the directions mentioned by John W below. I would next focus on the safety switches. There will be either one or two depending upon when your 149 was built. The first is easy to check by removing the tunnel cover and it is located down by the brake pedal rockshaft. There should be a spring clip on the rockshaft that depresses the switch button. Frequently those spring clips fatigue and break with years of use and then your Cubbie won't start. Also pull the wire connector off and clean the wire terminals on back of the switch with some emery cloth and blow the dirt build up out of the wire connector while your at it. If you have a test light you can check to see if you are getting current down to the lower safety switch.
If your Cubbie serial number is >482000 and your mower PTO clutch has a brake on it, then there is a second switch under that dash that prevents starting the Cubbie with the PTO engaged. It too has a spring clip on the PTO lever shaft that can break. Check it and clean the wire connections as well.
Hope this helps.
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Matt-
I've done it before.. (perhaps Kraig will post some pictures as I don't have them here.)
I pulled the old pinion shaft out and replaced it with the "new" one from the aluminum tranny.
That requires a new frost or "welch" plug at the front of the transmission.
Other than that it was just remove and reinstall the components.
I've done it before.. (perhaps Kraig will post some pictures as I don't have them here.)
I pulled the old pinion shaft out and replaced it with the "new" one from the aluminum tranny.
That requires a new frost or "welch" plug at the front of the transmission.
Other than that it was just remove and reinstall the components.
Matt G,
I have done at least 3. You may want to get some different thicknesses of shims for the carrier bearings. I never seemed to be able to get the right combination from the shims that were there in both rearends. You shouldn't have to worry about shimming the pinion if you don't remove it. You need to use the ring gear from the CI rear unless you want to use the pinion from the AL rear. I used 5/16" grade 8 fine thread bolts to put the ring gear on the new carrier.
To clarify that a little; keep the original pinion in the CI rear and use the ring gear from the CI rear on the carrier from the AL rear. Changing the ring gear is a LOT easier than having to mess with setting the pinion depth.
I have done at least 3. You may want to get some different thicknesses of shims for the carrier bearings. I never seemed to be able to get the right combination from the shims that were there in both rearends. You shouldn't have to worry about shimming the pinion if you don't remove it. You need to use the ring gear from the CI rear unless you want to use the pinion from the AL rear. I used 5/16" grade 8 fine thread bolts to put the ring gear on the new carrier.
To clarify that a little; keep the original pinion in the CI rear and use the ring gear from the CI rear on the carrier from the AL rear. Changing the ring gear is a LOT easier than having to mess with setting the pinion depth.
Mowed Saturday with the 982....took it off dump cart duty for the day. I have to watch how much more I run it.....hour meter is showing 199+ hours.....I think it had something like 30-32 hours when I bought it back in the fall of '99.
I am new out here so please have grace on me and let me know if I do something wrong...
I have a Cub Cadet 1650 bought back in 1977, and it has a hydraulic lift and electric PTO. Recently I had the engine overhauled, and after I reinstalled the engine I haven't been able to mow for more than 20 minutes without blowing the fuse for pto clutch. One item I did notice was the Amp meter spikes towards the Charge a few minutes before the fuse blows. My first thought was there is a short that only starts shorting out after 20 minutes of run time. Before the meter spikes everything looks normal, afterwards the meter never returns back to zero. So as a test I ran the mower for 20 minutes or until the meter spiked, then I shut it off. My thought was if it was a short maybe I would get another 20 minutes of mowing time before the meter would spike again. No luck, as soon as I started the tractor the meter continued to lean toward the charge blowing the fuse a few minutes afterwards.
I did take all the wiring out yesterday looking for indications of chafing, but I didn’t see anything obvious. When I reinstalled the newly rebuilt engine I didn’t install the positive wire from the battery to the ignition coil correctly. I didn't have it in the wiring harness correctly causing a short, but I found that several weeks ago by following the sparks. Fixed that, and everything works fine but I can’t use the mower.
Have you had this happen to you before? Any thoughts on other things I can look for?
Thank You,
Bob
I have a Cub Cadet 1650 bought back in 1977, and it has a hydraulic lift and electric PTO. Recently I had the engine overhauled, and after I reinstalled the engine I haven't been able to mow for more than 20 minutes without blowing the fuse for pto clutch. One item I did notice was the Amp meter spikes towards the Charge a few minutes before the fuse blows. My first thought was there is a short that only starts shorting out after 20 minutes of run time. Before the meter spikes everything looks normal, afterwards the meter never returns back to zero. So as a test I ran the mower for 20 minutes or until the meter spiked, then I shut it off. My thought was if it was a short maybe I would get another 20 minutes of mowing time before the meter would spike again. No luck, as soon as I started the tractor the meter continued to lean toward the charge blowing the fuse a few minutes afterwards.
I did take all the wiring out yesterday looking for indications of chafing, but I didn’t see anything obvious. When I reinstalled the newly rebuilt engine I didn’t install the positive wire from the battery to the ignition coil correctly. I didn't have it in the wiring harness correctly causing a short, but I found that several weeks ago by following the sparks. Fixed that, and everything works fine but I can’t use the mower.
Have you had this happen to you before? Any thoughts on other things I can look for?
Thank You,
Bob
Hey Ron: Just ordered a new spring clip you are talking about (yes from sponsor above). First 1 I have ever had broken in 40 plus years!!!
Keep testing Mike, a you will gain a wealth of knowledge as many of us have learned.
Bob: Did you ground the motor when you re-installed the rebuilt motor. Just a thought.
Pops----
Keep testing Mike, a you will gain a wealth of knowledge as many of us have learned.
Bob: Did you ground the motor when you re-installed the rebuilt motor. Just a thought.
Pops----
Bob, here's a schematic for the 1650. Keep in mind that the 1650 has a rubber ISO mounted engine, might not get a good ground through just the engine mounting bolts. I believe there should be a ground wire to the starter.
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Matt-
I would agree with Todd's comment:
"Changing the ring gear is a LOT easier than having to mess with setting the pinion depth."
I've heard rumors that the SGT hydro pumps were slightly different than those in a regular GT, so I changed out the pinion rather than swapping ring gears so I could bring the SGT pump along in the swap.
<font size="-2">I probably won't attempt that again though, because it wasn't very fun!</font>
I would agree with Todd's comment:
"Changing the ring gear is a LOT easier than having to mess with setting the pinion depth."
I've heard rumors that the SGT hydro pumps were slightly different than those in a regular GT, so I changed out the pinion rather than swapping ring gears so I could bring the SGT pump along in the swap.
<font size="-2">I probably won't attempt that again though, because it wasn't very fun!</font>
I just thought i would pass this along. Placed the order and recieved in two days.
http://mgrassroots.com/lawn_garden.html
Carlisle Super Lug
SIZE PLY RATING COST
Tubeless except *
4.10-6 NHS 2 14.19
13x5.00-6 NHS 2 16.11
14x4.50-6 NHS 2 17.44
4.80-8 NHS 2 22.40
16x6.50-8 NHS 4 28.20
18x9.50-8 NHS 2 39.77
20x10.00-8 NHS 4 40.40
*6-12 NHS (Tube Type)
2 36.10
23x8.50-12 NHS 2 44.28
23x10.50-12 NHS 4 62.30
26x12.00-12 NHS 4 69.60
Enjoy
Mark
http://mgrassroots.com/lawn_garden.html
Carlisle Super Lug
SIZE PLY RATING COST
Tubeless except *
4.10-6 NHS 2 14.19
13x5.00-6 NHS 2 16.11
14x4.50-6 NHS 2 17.44
4.80-8 NHS 2 22.40
16x6.50-8 NHS 4 28.20
18x9.50-8 NHS 2 39.77
20x10.00-8 NHS 4 40.40
*6-12 NHS (Tube Type)
2 36.10
23x8.50-12 NHS 2 44.28
23x10.50-12 NHS 4 62.30
26x12.00-12 NHS 4 69.60
Enjoy
Mark
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Not to be a troll, but...
Why would a lack of ground blow fuses?? As a matter of fact, the clutch wouldn't work at all if it was grounded to the block and the block to frame ground were missing. I'm guessing a bad coil in the clutch- IIRC, that's not all that uncommon on those electric PTOs and the symptoms ( shorting to ground and then blowing the fuse after the coil has heated up) would fit that..
Why would a lack of ground blow fuses?? As a matter of fact, the clutch wouldn't work at all if it was grounded to the block and the block to frame ground were missing. I'm guessing a bad coil in the clutch- IIRC, that's not all that uncommon on those electric PTOs and the symptoms ( shorting to ground and then blowing the fuse after the coil has heated up) would fit that..
