Archive through June 12, 2012

[mhomrighausen]

Dave M. I don't have any sketches however I'm pretty sure that somewhere in the archieves or perhaps Kraig M. has pictures of concrete weights that a member made using those popcorn tins. I believe it was a little over two years ago. Basically put make a bolt that is held onto the tractor rim with some nuts and washers. Get your measurements making sure that the bolts are straight. Drill holes in the tin to correspond with the bolt pattern. If you have a welder then you can weld the metal form together while tieing the bolts as part of the form. If no welder and you have flat iron stock then you could use washers and nuts to hold the steel form together. If using that then I'd be sure and dent the end of the make a bolt threads to distort them so they don't one day come out on you. Or drill a hole through the thread and put a small pin through the threads.

Hopefully Kraig has a picture(s) of the gentleman's homemade concrete weights. I gotta leave for work shortly.

 

[jchamberlin]

John:

My latest Magnum 18 motor cost me $225 to acquire. It came with 1/2 of the remote filter setup; I had to supply the other 1/2. I haven't tried to fit it into the tractor yet, I'm still considering my options.

According to forum member MICHAEL GALLINARO the remote filter setup that MTD used for their M18 installations is not compatible with the 82 Series , he wrote me as follows:

YOU ARE GOING TO FIND THAT THE HOSE ENDS USED ON THE FACTORY ORIGINAL OIL LINES DO NOT LET YOU USE THE 82 SERIES SIDE PANELS WITHOUT CUTTING THEM UP. THE SIDE PANELS ON THE MTD CUB CADET SERIES TRACTORS THAT HAD THE M SERIES KOHLER WERE DIFFERENT AND THE OIL LINE FIT WITHIN THE BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE NEW STYLE COVER.

He recommended running new lines and mounting the oil filter elsewhere.

Forum member Adrian Gitch came up with a way to mount a remote filter to a 782 in a location similar to that used by MTD (we don't see his side panels in the picture):

Personally, I'm thinking about running the lines through the holes used for the front hydraulic lines and mounting the filter to the front of the frame on a plate that is piggy-backed to the front grille-mounting bolts (somehow). I don't have any front-mounting attachments, so as long as the mule drive can clear it, I should be OK.

I'm not sure, but I think a lot of folks would agree that the filter mounted to directly to the block is alot cleaner and easier way to go, but I'm thinking that the remote filter would make it easier to change out.

Regarding your "path" to re-powering, while you may have laid out more money up-front, you know where you stand starting out. After break-in, you should be able to run it for a life-time. I'm always running mine with my fingers crossed; which is why I purchased a "backup" unit.

To each his own, I suppose.

 

[mgonitzke]

That's BS...the side panels are the same. The firewall for the tractors with the oil filter is notched.

The easiest way I have found to mount the filter is to mount it to a stud where the coil bracket goes, so this may only work on an M18 and not a KT-17. It does allow you to use the longer version of the filter, however, which is kind of nice.

 

[dtanner]

chuck durant

usually you will get a leak from the cork gasket at the top of the pump where the pump bolts to the rear end.You say you have a leak from the bottom ? are you sure it is not leaking from the hydro oil supply tube that comes out the bottom of the rear
end ? With the fenders off it would be easier to remove the bolts that hold the pump on ,but I think the pump could be removed working through the tunnel cover , it would be tight quarters to do a cork gasket repair with out just pulling the hole rear end .wipe the area of the leak up and add some baby powder over the area to see just where it is leaking . I used neoprene for my last gasket instead of cork so I will never have to do that leak repair again . Let us know what you find.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke

(((That's BS...the side panels are the same. The firewall for the tractors with the oil filter is notched. ))))


I`am sure some one with all the edamakation you have could find a more acceptable way of expressing one`s self.

 

[cdurant]

yes don the leak is were you say it was were can i get this gasket or do you have a part number thanks

 

[dtanner]

here is one from the boxes above .http://ccspecialties.org/hydroparts_holddowns.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

While I'm searching for the popcorn tin weights have a look at these. This set was made by Pat Irlbeck. Click on the link and the photos are near the top of the page.

Pat's weights

 

[digger]

Chuck D.
Cork gasket to go between hydro and rear end housing PN/ 721-3004 or 921-3004.

 

[dschwandt]

Bill J. You may find that your bolt does not have enough shank to reach completely through the X member so you are not bearing on the threads. I had to go w/a 7" grade 8 and will have to either cut a few more threads or add a couple washers to suck the axle back into position. You will not need the roll pin and you will have to have someone mill aboiut 1/2 the head off the bolt. I also milled a grease relief into the bolt shank to duplicate the original pin.

There is not much room between the head of the bolt and the oil pan when installed, maybe 1/4 or 3/16". Very close and I'm going to keep an even closer eye on it when back in service. These pic's are from my 1450 that I'm working on at present.

Crap, none of the pic's made the trip!!
Why do I have such a problem w/this???

BTW, scored a decent running 1200 the other day. The PO had installed new motor mounts and clutch plate but did not install the clutch disc springss. G'Daughter wants a pink one!! I don't know about that!!