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Archive through June 12, 2012
- Thread starter mgwin
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
A friend of mine has these fenders for his original and we need a picture of the reverse side. The PO cut some off of the bottom of each fender below the connecting pan. I didn't get a pic of that side and they are now cooking in electrolysis.
Kraig...would you have a pic of these fenders from the other side? He wants to get things back as close to OEM as possible.
He also has a creeper he wants to install and since I don't have an original it's kind of a treat working and learning about the model. If there's anything special I need to know about this install please feel free to respond.
Kraig...would you have a pic of these fenders from the other side? He wants to get things back as close to OEM as possible.
He also has a creeper he wants to install and since I don't have an original it's kind of a treat working and learning about the model. If there's anything special I need to know about this install please feel free to respond.
Wayne, be sure to check out the manuals page. Here's a few links to various manuals that might be of interest. There are some good photos of the fenders in the Fender Installation Manual.
Original Fender Installation Manual
Original Creeper Installation Manual
Original Chassis Service Manual
If you need more photos of fenders let me know. I can posts some of my Original. I do have a bunch of photos of the fenders from when I was refurbishing it. Shoot, I'll just post a few anyway. Give me a few minutes to dig some up and resize them...
Original Fender Installation Manual
Original Creeper Installation Manual
Original Chassis Service Manual
If you need more photos of fenders let me know. I can posts some of my Original. I do have a bunch of photos of the fenders from when I was refurbishing it. Shoot, I'll just post a few anyway. Give me a few minutes to dig some up and resize them...
Wayne, here's a few.
Thanks for the complements everyone! I'm doing some adjustments/repairs now. Had a little noise coming from the PTO so I replaced the bearing & collar.
Your probably not going to believe this but the only thing I did to remove the set screws from the clutch is to spray some penetrating solvent (WD-40 Specialist, rust release penetrant spray) in the holes last night. Today I was ready for a battle and they came right out. That is the first time I haven't had to heat and drill and curse while changing a PTO bearing.
Well back to work! I want to mow with it today and I still have to go thru the mule drive to be sure everything is working correctly.
Your probably not going to believe this but the only thing I did to remove the set screws from the clutch is to spray some penetrating solvent (WD-40 Specialist, rust release penetrant spray) in the holes last night. Today I was ready for a battle and they came right out. That is the first time I haven't had to heat and drill and curse while changing a PTO bearing.
Well back to work! I want to mow with it today and I still have to go thru the mule drive to be sure everything is working correctly.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
More progress today for the 1650. Bought myself a 3/4 x 6 inch bolt assembly to tighten-up the front axle carrier.
Also ordered a new head gasket for the engine, roll pin for the input shaft on the tranny and a new roll pin for the front axle when I reassemble it.
Also ordered a new head gasket for the engine, roll pin for the input shaft on the tranny and a new roll pin for the front axle when I reassemble it.
Bernie,
I am expecting to receive A rebuilt(remanufactured) series 2 kt-17 from custom small engine in Ohio. It was a little cheaper than a repower with a modern motor and the install is the same as the take down only the reverse(so they say). I went the old motor route first and as some one stated earlier that would have got expensive real fast.My lesson with picking up old equipment is that people ussualy wait for the motor to die before they try to get rid of it.Even the recently deceased PO of my project burned a few valves guides before his grandson passed it to me. The motor is the weak link in the 782 but my series 1 kt 17 is still runs great cutting 3 acres a week and driveways in the winter. I believe the series 2 is the same as the mag 18 without the electronic points and maybe an oil filter. The problems I have had with the kt17 over the years have been 1. keeping the oil level right
(1.7 quart capacity makes low to over filled a narrow margin)
2. keeping the air cooling system open,Grass clogs the lower intake screens. Mice live and die in the cooling fins and sheet metal.I will post some pictures of my motor swap and deck rebuild when I can. I hope I have positive review of Kustom Small Engine
I am expecting to receive A rebuilt(remanufactured) series 2 kt-17 from custom small engine in Ohio. It was a little cheaper than a repower with a modern motor and the install is the same as the take down only the reverse(so they say). I went the old motor route first and as some one stated earlier that would have got expensive real fast.My lesson with picking up old equipment is that people ussualy wait for the motor to die before they try to get rid of it.Even the recently deceased PO of my project burned a few valves guides before his grandson passed it to me. The motor is the weak link in the 782 but my series 1 kt 17 is still runs great cutting 3 acres a week and driveways in the winter. I believe the series 2 is the same as the mag 18 without the electronic points and maybe an oil filter. The problems I have had with the kt17 over the years have been 1. keeping the oil level right
(1.7 quart capacity makes low to over filled a narrow margin)
2. keeping the air cooling system open,Grass clogs the lower intake screens. Mice live and die in the cooling fins and sheet metal.I will post some pictures of my motor swap and deck rebuild when I can. I hope I have positive review of Kustom Small Engine
Ken
I can't say the solvent is better. I have not used PB blaster much. WD penetrant seems to work well I've used it on other rusty/seized situations and I like the spray nozzle better. You can fold the straw down.
I can't say the solvent is better. I have not used PB blaster much. WD penetrant seems to work well I've used it on other rusty/seized situations and I like the spray nozzle better. You can fold the straw down.
Don't laugh!
I had to disassemble the mule drive. The rod that the pulley's hang from was badly worn on the side with the spring. So I cut the rod away from the frame repaired the rod and that bracket. Now I can't remember how it goes back together.
Anyone have a picture?
I had to disassemble the mule drive. The rod that the pulley's hang from was badly worn on the side with the spring. So I cut the rod away from the frame repaired the rod and that bracket. Now I can't remember how it goes back together.
Anyone have a picture?
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Bernie Pientka:
John may be on to something. I would be curious to learn how much he had to give to get the unit already re-built. It may have been cheaper than re-building it yourself.
I'm going to e-mail you a search technique which worked for me, but for everyone's benefit, I'm posting what I've learned from living with two (2) re-powers of a spread-frame Cub Cadet.
Understand before you start looking that the single biggest reason small engines fail is lack of oil, period.
First: Make sure to check the condition of the engine by RUNNING it. If it knocks, politely excuse yourself and get out of there as fast as you can; if it smokes at start, I wouldn't worry; if it keeps on smoking, I would worry and start calculating the cost of an immediate rebuild; if it leaks badly (or there is evidence of it leaking badly) be prepared to walk away.
Note: I believe the condition of the BOTTOM end of the engine is more important than the top end.
Second: Make sure you can install it correctly in a Cub Cadet. You're ahead of the game, because you already own a KT-17 so you won't have to buy such things as Exhaust Elbows or "clover-leaf" flywheel-to-drive shaft adapters, etc --if you buy a Kohler. The bolt pattern isn't a big issue, unless you just don't want to drill any more holes in the mounting plate.
<font size="+1">Manufacturer Specific:</font>
For Briggs & Statton Opposed Twin Cylinder 16 HP:
Verify the size of the magnets on the flywheel and the nature of the charging system. I know there were (2) different sizes of magnets installed on this motor, and there may have been three; and at least two (2) different charging systems. The smallest magnets, with a single-lead stator and a half-wave rectifier (a diode) produces 5 amps; the largest magnets with a two-lead HD stator and a full-wave rectifier produces almost 16 amps (I'm working from memory, but I can look it up).
Also, not all engines were made to turn a full 3600 RPM, some of them were designed to power welders and such and turning them faster than designed speed can burn them up. (The engineers at B&S reportedly can tell you what caused the motor to fail and high RPMs is one of the causes.)
For Kohler Opposed Twin Cylinder 18 HP & 20 HP (Magnum Series): Verify whether the engine has a remote oil filter setup, and if it comes with the engine --buying one after-the-fact is relatively expensive.
Please Note: A Magnum can be fitted to a spread-frame without the remote oil filter setup; in fact, it is a lot easier to do, since there really isn't a good place to mount the remote oil filter on a 782 like there is on the earlier MTD tractors on which it was originally installed.
Note: The smallest charging system on the Kohler's equals the biggest on the B&S about 15 amps; the larger, and more common, produces 25 amps and the upsize is dependent entirely on the stator, not the magnets (although you'll pay more for the parts than you do for the B&S).
Honda or other OHV engines: I can't help, I have no experience.
Again, I don't know what John spent for his solution, I paid more than I really wanted to for my motor (I had to buy a working tractor to get the engine, and it was the deck that was worn out, but beggars can't be choosers); but I'll bet I paid less than John. I've been running it for at least 12 months now (edit: 24 months), it doesn't use oil, and just runs better every time I use it. The previous owner reportedly took good care of it and changed the oil regularly. Edit: I never turned a wrench on it except to remove the shrouds (for the first time), lubricate the starter, and glue the magnets back down (after running it for a year with them loose).
I recently came across a Magnum 18 that had come out of a Cub Cadet (the owner upgraded to a diesel) for half what I paid for the tractor; and I don't have to buy all the parts to make it fit a Cub (although I did have to purchase a remote oil filter setup).
Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress.
Just a word of warning though, Donald Tanner can testify that you don't want to post about any "finds" until you have them in your possession.
John may be on to something. I would be curious to learn how much he had to give to get the unit already re-built. It may have been cheaper than re-building it yourself.
I'm going to e-mail you a search technique which worked for me, but for everyone's benefit, I'm posting what I've learned from living with two (2) re-powers of a spread-frame Cub Cadet.
Understand before you start looking that the single biggest reason small engines fail is lack of oil, period.
First: Make sure to check the condition of the engine by RUNNING it. If it knocks, politely excuse yourself and get out of there as fast as you can; if it smokes at start, I wouldn't worry; if it keeps on smoking, I would worry and start calculating the cost of an immediate rebuild; if it leaks badly (or there is evidence of it leaking badly) be prepared to walk away.
Note: I believe the condition of the BOTTOM end of the engine is more important than the top end.
Second: Make sure you can install it correctly in a Cub Cadet. You're ahead of the game, because you already own a KT-17 so you won't have to buy such things as Exhaust Elbows or "clover-leaf" flywheel-to-drive shaft adapters, etc --if you buy a Kohler. The bolt pattern isn't a big issue, unless you just don't want to drill any more holes in the mounting plate.
<font size="+1">Manufacturer Specific:</font>
For Briggs & Statton Opposed Twin Cylinder 16 HP:
Verify the size of the magnets on the flywheel and the nature of the charging system. I know there were (2) different sizes of magnets installed on this motor, and there may have been three; and at least two (2) different charging systems. The smallest magnets, with a single-lead stator and a half-wave rectifier (a diode) produces 5 amps; the largest magnets with a two-lead HD stator and a full-wave rectifier produces almost 16 amps (I'm working from memory, but I can look it up).
Also, not all engines were made to turn a full 3600 RPM, some of them were designed to power welders and such and turning them faster than designed speed can burn them up. (The engineers at B&S reportedly can tell you what caused the motor to fail and high RPMs is one of the causes.)
For Kohler Opposed Twin Cylinder 18 HP & 20 HP (Magnum Series): Verify whether the engine has a remote oil filter setup, and if it comes with the engine --buying one after-the-fact is relatively expensive.
Please Note: A Magnum can be fitted to a spread-frame without the remote oil filter setup; in fact, it is a lot easier to do, since there really isn't a good place to mount the remote oil filter on a 782 like there is on the earlier MTD tractors on which it was originally installed.
Note: The smallest charging system on the Kohler's equals the biggest on the B&S about 15 amps; the larger, and more common, produces 25 amps and the upsize is dependent entirely on the stator, not the magnets (although you'll pay more for the parts than you do for the B&S).
Honda or other OHV engines: I can't help, I have no experience.
Again, I don't know what John spent for his solution, I paid more than I really wanted to for my motor (I had to buy a working tractor to get the engine, and it was the deck that was worn out, but beggars can't be choosers); but I'll bet I paid less than John. I've been running it for at least 12 months now (edit: 24 months), it doesn't use oil, and just runs better every time I use it. The previous owner reportedly took good care of it and changed the oil regularly. Edit: I never turned a wrench on it except to remove the shrouds (for the first time), lubricate the starter, and glue the magnets back down (after running it for a year with them loose).
I recently came across a Magnum 18 that had come out of a Cub Cadet (the owner upgraded to a diesel) for half what I paid for the tractor; and I don't have to buy all the parts to make it fit a Cub (although I did have to purchase a remote oil filter setup).
Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress.
Just a word of warning though, Donald Tanner can testify that you don't want to post about any "finds" until you have them in your possession.
129 hydro question is it possible to split the transmission from the rear end with out pulling rear end the reason i ask i have a hydro leak at the bottom of unit were it goes into the rear end and do i need to open trans to install the seal or gasket on the parts look up number 23 is a gasket thanks
oh yea guys the starter on this 129 did go bad i took it and had it tested and it bearly turned on the the bench test probably was going bad i didnt notice i cant explain it tho so seeing how it it is down i might as well fix a few things LOL
Jeremiah,
The kt17 series 2 is a long block rebuild 90 day warranty. bearings pistons rings rods bore oil pump gov.
new fuel pump. I add carb manifold exhaust flywheel sheetmetal points ect . no core 1470.00 shipped. they seem very experienced with the kt-17 and the magnum series with 30 years experience,but per your warning, I ordered it the end of April and I should see it Friday. Around here to buy the parts and have the machining done was close to the same price but then I would need to assemble and guarantee it myself.. uhh I'll keep you posted and get the camera out when things get moving. I am interested in the remote filter kit was it on the magnum or did you add it. where did you mount it? Thanks John
The kt17 series 2 is a long block rebuild 90 day warranty. bearings pistons rings rods bore oil pump gov.
new fuel pump. I add carb manifold exhaust flywheel sheetmetal points ect . no core 1470.00 shipped. they seem very experienced with the kt-17 and the magnum series with 30 years experience,but per your warning, I ordered it the end of April and I should see it Friday. Around here to buy the parts and have the machining done was close to the same price but then I would need to assemble and guarantee it myself.. uhh I'll keep you posted and get the camera out when things get moving. I am interested in the remote filter kit was it on the magnum or did you add it. where did you mount it? Thanks John
