Archive through June 11, 2008
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Richard T., I'll second what Jerry said, very nice job on your 129.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Alexander D.-
This should go without saying, but did you thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces on both the block and pan, and use a NEW gasket with NO RTV/gasket sealer? Did you torque the bolts to the spec in the manual?
Thermal expansion is not your problem. New gaskets installed correctly will not leak. If the engine has the original cast iron oil pan, it'll expand at the same rate as the engine block, which won't loosen up the fit of the oil pan.
If you have enough play in your driveshaft such that you can raise the engine two inches...I think you need to replace some things in your driveshaft. It's just as easy to slide the motor forward to disengage it from the clutch, and then you can lift it all the way out. The hard part is removing the bolts that hold the engine in.
This should go without saying, but did you thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces on both the block and pan, and use a NEW gasket with NO RTV/gasket sealer? Did you torque the bolts to the spec in the manual?
Thermal expansion is not your problem. New gaskets installed correctly will not leak. If the engine has the original cast iron oil pan, it'll expand at the same rate as the engine block, which won't loosen up the fit of the oil pan.
If you have enough play in your driveshaft such that you can raise the engine two inches...I think you need to replace some things in your driveshaft. It's just as easy to slide the motor forward to disengage it from the clutch, and then you can lift it all the way out. The hard part is removing the bolts that hold the engine in.
nqueensland
Well-known member
Todd- There have been a couple different yellows and several different whites. Here's the link to the paint chart for the correct colors:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/Paint.htm
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/Paint.htm
adjordjevich
Member
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- Alexander Djordjevich
Matt,
Original cast pan with no RTV. I didn't torque the heck out them, but they need tightening. I rebuilt the whole engine so everything was clean.
Now I'll have to disconnect the harness, clutch guard, etc. What a pain.
Original cast pan with no RTV. I didn't torque the heck out them, but they need tightening. I rebuilt the whole engine so everything was clean.
Now I'll have to disconnect the harness, clutch guard, etc. What a pain.
Ahh found one reason to keep hydro tractor. was filling low spots/holes in park this a.m. & hard to see behind trailer to stop right where I want. So I hop off tractor push lever Fwd slow & just walk beside it while I judge when to stop right over low spots. neat if I can just teach it how to shovel trailer load of dirt I could sit in shade while it worked.
Alexander
Removing the motor from a 122 should only take 30 minutes from the time you loosen the first bolt.
Heres how I do it.
Remove the 2 bolts holdiing the hood on.
Disconect the posative wire from the battery.
Remove 2 bolts holding voltage reg into place, place voltage reg on foot pad.
Remove 2 nuts holding wires to starter.
Remove wire from coil.
Un hook choke wire.
Un hook throttle wire.
Disconect pto engagement rod.
Remove 4 bolts holding grill casting, set casting aside.
Remove 2 rearward engine bolts.
Place floor jack under left side axle, lift axle up until tire is off ground, remove right side front engine bolt.
Repeat, only move floor jack to other side.
Engine should now be ready to slide out.
With engine out remove clutch gard to help ease lineing up clutch during reinstall.
Before reinstalling engine, pump some axle grease into steering collum worm gear area, there should be a grease fitting there if it has not fallen out or been broken off.
Removing the motor from a 122 should only take 30 minutes from the time you loosen the first bolt.
Heres how I do it.
Remove the 2 bolts holdiing the hood on.
Disconect the posative wire from the battery.
Remove 2 bolts holding voltage reg into place, place voltage reg on foot pad.
Remove 2 nuts holding wires to starter.
Remove wire from coil.
Un hook choke wire.
Un hook throttle wire.
Disconect pto engagement rod.
Remove 4 bolts holding grill casting, set casting aside.
Remove 2 rearward engine bolts.
Place floor jack under left side axle, lift axle up until tire is off ground, remove right side front engine bolt.
Repeat, only move floor jack to other side.
Engine should now be ready to slide out.
With engine out remove clutch gard to help ease lineing up clutch during reinstall.
Before reinstalling engine, pump some axle grease into steering collum worm gear area, there should be a grease fitting there if it has not fallen out or been broken off.
Thanks on the compliments on the 129 Guys. Remember it is the "rattle can" restro. It's an 8 footer for sure on paint but at least the rust is taken care of. It's a worker but I'm proud to show it off too!
Before:
After
Before:
After
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Richard T. Nice job congratulations! Love the before and after photos.
evening all...posted this concern a few weeks ago about the head gasket blowing on a k161. asked if the points being out of adjustment would cause this and got several of you in a good little debate.
anyway, i asked charlie what the correct length of the pushrod for the points should be and he told me 1 9/16" long. ok, i ordered the correct rod and installed it tonite, now my points will not close.
the rod that i pulled out was about 1/4" shorter than what was listed in the parts lookup above and the catalogs that i have access to at NAPA.
Brad C.
The push rod I gave you a measurement of was a KH-41-411-04.According to the Parts lookup Button above, one for a 7 horse engine is PN/KH-41-411-01. Which may be a different length,
Hopefully someone will tell us both if there is indeed a difference in lengths. Since I don't have one close to me right now, I can't go measure it, sorry.
The push rod I gave you a measurement of was a KH-41-411-04.According to the Parts lookup Button above, one for a 7 horse engine is PN/KH-41-411-01. Which may be a different length,
Hopefully someone will tell us both if there is indeed a difference in lengths. Since I don't have one close to me right now, I can't go measure it, sorry.
Brad C., something doesn't add up. There is no way you have the correct new points rod... or you don't have the engine ya think you do. I am taking a shot in the dark here. I am sure there are some diff's in the length of the points rod, but if I saw a 1/4 inch diff then something is wrong!
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Brad-
Is there a chance that this engine was formerly a recoil engine?
I thought I'd heard that recoil cubs used a different cam. That could explain the points rod not being correct...
Is there a chance that this engine was formerly a recoil engine?
I thought I'd heard that recoil cubs used a different cam. That could explain the points rod not being correct...
