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Archive through June 11, 2008
- Thread starter bbrigham
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig - isn't the pin on a hydro driveshaft supposed to be a dowel pin, not a spirol pin? I think we went through this recently, Lonny was having trouble with his 127. The factory dowel pin would fall out, and spirol pins didn't last long. Charlie suggested replacing the coupler and driveshaft, and Greg Edwards suggested using a grade 8 bolt and locking nut...
Christopher, yes you are correct, the engine end does have a dowel pin, the hydro end has a spirol pin. I suppose if you get technical about it the hydro end of the driveshaft is actually welded and the spirol pin goes into the coupler/hydro shaft not the actual driveshaft. Oops.
I have a grade 8 bolt on the engine end of my #1 125 which I put there back in the late 1980's and that did trash the driveshaft/coupler.
jfejedelem
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2008
- Messages
- 22
- displayname
- James Fejedelem
So can I put a grade 8 bolt on the engine side? That is the side that is partually sheard.
Kraig - I wouldn't blame the bolt, it's no worse for the shaft/coupler than the correct dowel pin. I'd blame a poor design! Most of the hydros I've seen in original condition have wallowed out driveshafts and couplers, with either bolts instead of the dowel pin, or a hose clamp around the coupler holding the dowel pin in place. IH corrected the problem with the Quietlines and their flex couplings on both ends of the driveshaft.
James - Go ahead and put a grade 8 bolt in the driveshaft/coupling. Be aware that this isn't a permanent fix. It will probably last a very long time, but not forever. The problem is that the hole in the driveshaft and the slots in the coupler are worn, and will continue to wear, and eventually either the driveshaft or coupler will break. The "right" thing to do is to replace both driveshaft and coupler, but that's big bucks...
James - Go ahead and put a grade 8 bolt in the driveshaft/coupling. Be aware that this isn't a permanent fix. It will probably last a very long time, but not forever. The problem is that the hole in the driveshaft and the slots in the coupler are worn, and will continue to wear, and eventually either the driveshaft or coupler will break. The "right" thing to do is to replace both driveshaft and coupler, but that's big bucks...
James, you can put whatever you wish into the driveshaft.
Is this on a model 1100? If so that's quite a bit different then the driveshaft setup on a narrow frame or wide frame hydro....
Christopher, the dowel pins tend to fit tighter then a bolt does, and thus slop around trashing the driveshaft. If the dowel pin fits tightly in the drivehaft, as it's supposed to, only the coupler gets worn out.
Christopher, the dowel pins tend to fit tighter then a bolt does, and thus slop around trashing the driveshaft. If the dowel pin fits tightly in the drivehaft, as it's supposed to, only the coupler gets worn out.
I got the 44A back together (after rust repair and paint)with new spindles(and Gators)and a speed up pulley. It took about 4hrs.and some choice words to level it up front to back and side to side. BTW... the front to back was at least 3/8"in. out of whack.... but once "Blunier tuned" it was Nice!!! No, I didn't get the support welded in nor did I put the cleanout holes in the cover. All in good time.
Charlie, I like the replacement seat. It's a little higher in the back with more lower back support. Thanks again for all of the parts.
And thanks again to Kraig and Jerry for the info. on how to install the Q.A. springs.
Charlie, I like the replacement seat. It's a little higher in the back with more lower back support. Thanks again for all of the parts.
And thanks again to Kraig and Jerry for the info. on how to install the Q.A. springs.
The problem I was having with the dowel pin in the driveshaft of my 127 is simply this.
The old dowel pin was worn 1/2 through and I wanted to replace it with a new dowel pin.
Orederd a new pin from MTD, and when new pin was inserted into hole in driveshaft it would not stay put.
Old pin needed to be pounded out of driveshaft, new pin could be pushed into hole in driveshaft by hand.
I needed to find a different solution.
SO I ended up useing a pin that looks like this
Now the grooved pin stays put and I can use my 127 again.
The old dowel pin was worn 1/2 through and I wanted to replace it with a new dowel pin.
Orederd a new pin from MTD, and when new pin was inserted into hole in driveshaft it would not stay put.
Old pin needed to be pounded out of driveshaft, new pin could be pushed into hole in driveshaft by hand.
I needed to find a different solution.
SO I ended up useing a pin that looks like this
Now the grooved pin stays put and I can use my 127 again.
Can someone tell me where on my 14HP, K321, (CC147) engine that I removed this set screw & nut from? It's been 3 or 4 months that I started overhauling the engine ( numerious projects in between)and this morning after setting the PTO and prior to installation, this item was in the bag with the PTO set screws.
dreinhardt
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2002
- Messages
- 36
- displayname
- David Reinhardt
James It goes in the locking collar for the PTO bearing . Part # 13 in the parts look up for your 147 PTO.
I know this is not cub cadet related but i do have an int. cub that is yellow and white! =D
But it is the same thing as a farmall cub just made in the 60's and 70's but i had the manuals on a disk and the film lifted off the cd so now i dont have a manual with a tractor that is sitting out side and rain on the way. The head is ready to be put on and i have no torque setting or bolt pattern
if someone could please halp me out that would be fantastic!
Thanks so much,
Anthony C.
But it is the same thing as a farmall cub just made in the 60's and 70's but i had the manuals on a disk and the film lifted off the cd so now i dont have a manual with a tractor that is sitting out side and rain on the way. The head is ready to be put on and i have no torque setting or bolt pattern
if someone could please halp me out that would be fantastic!
Thanks so much,
Anthony C.
Terry B.
I'm already here, and it's freakin COLD up here too. 44 degrees right now.
The wife insisted on bringing the laptop, Grrrrrrr
Anthony C.
So why not POST your question in the Topic set up for such things?
Sheesh, I'm turnin this thing off before I read something else.
I'm already here, and it's freakin COLD up here too. 44 degrees right now.
The wife insisted on bringing the laptop, Grrrrrrr
Anthony C.
So why not POST your question in the Topic set up for such things?
Sheesh, I'm turnin this thing off before I read something else.
Was mowing with my 124 this last weekend and stopped to back it up and then zoom forward in 3rd to knock loose a grass clump from the deck (usually works). Did that and then couldn't get any other gear than 3rd. 3rd is now forward and to the right instead of rearward! Trying to select other gear positions results in binding and stalling the engine. Neutral cannot be found! No odd noises. I know I gotta split it, but any idea what I screwed up!?!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Noah S.-
You either broke or bent a shift fork most likely. If you remove the shifter, you can find out a lot. You might not have to split it to do that, I can't remember on a NF.
You either broke or bent a shift fork most likely. If you remove the shifter, you can find out a lot. You might not have to split it to do that, I can't remember on a NF.
dsacksteder
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 13, 2008
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Dustin Sacksteder
Where can I find info on rebuilding the pto clutch for a 128/149. THanks Dustin
Dustin look up and you ill see .http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
adjordjevich
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 21
- displayname
- Alexander Djordjevich
Cub 122 restore finished. Been driving this thing around for a few hours and the K301 oil pan gasket has some dripping. I assume this is from the initial break-in thermal expansion.
There isn't much clearance down there and I need to snug up the bolts. What is the feasability of removing 4 frame mount bolts and jacking engine up an inch or two? Just enough clearance to get a socket or box wrench in there. Driveshaft would stay connected, but it seems to have enough play.
There isn't much clearance down there and I need to snug up the bolts. What is the feasability of removing 4 frame mount bolts and jacking engine up an inch or two? Just enough clearance to get a socket or box wrench in there. Driveshaft would stay connected, but it seems to have enough play.
