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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rbedell

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May 7, 2003
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Location
Michigan
displayname
Roland Bedell
Matt S:

Opps.......Got caught bt the Archive Bug....
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sweet that helps, the other one was confusing, kind of like those little mazes you used to do when you were a kid, lol
 
KENDELL - IH Paint info is constantly talked about on the RedPower forum too. The three versions of white comes up frequently, but the biggest mystery is what shade of gold was used on the 56-series Gold Demonstrators built in 1970. Used to be a forum regular here who's Father was a paint Supervisor at IH East Moline and consulted at FARMALL back about 1970 when they were built, Even He didn't know.

Bought some parts to rebuild the PTO clutch AGAIN for the final time on the 70 yesterday. I wish I could find the old reciept for the last PTO rebuild kit I bought about 5-7 years ago, I swear I only paid about $20-$25 for it!

L. William Rehm - I hope Your old rear tires had inner tubes in them. I'd remove the wheel/tire from the tractor, position the valve stem at the top of the tire, remove the valve core, the metal valve stem cap with the two little extensions works for this, then lay the tire over a large bucket or tub with the valve stem side pointing down. CaCl is good for use as a weed killer, also used on dirt & gravel roads to control dust. I'd look in Your local phone book for an ag. tire dealer and see if They'd be willing to take the CaCl off Your hands. For a small fee they may also be Your best bet to demount & reinstall Your new tires. Make sure You get new inner tubes installed inside Your new tires.
 
Dennis F: About 7 years ago, when I was working for a Cub Cadet dealer Parts Dept, the prices for those rebuild kits were in the $35-37.50 range as I recall.

Myron B
 
MYRON - Now that I think about it a little more.... May have been more like 15 yrs since I bought my last rebuild kit! Time flys when Your having fun Ya' know!

About 20-25 yrs ago MTD must have changed the material the PTO fricton disc was made out of, I broke two discs in about a year, one blowing snow, next one mowing that spring. The discs were really brittle. I don't keep as good of repair records on My CC's as I do on some other things, but the friction disc in the 72 right now is probably the replacement disc from the last disc that broke all those years ago. My 129 used to spit the fiber thrust button out once or twice a summer, but the one in the 72 I would guess is about 10 yrs old.
 
Kendell and Dennis. On the IH Demonstrator Gold paint color. Many years ago I asked a couple of IH dealers about the paint number and anything they knew about it. Both of them said the color was designed to be a very short term advertising only paint. ALL the demonstrators were supposed to be repainted IH red. Of course that never happened since some farmers actually liked the color and insisted on buying the tractor in the demonstrator gold. Needless to say the paint soon faded to a silver shade and a repaint was needed then. I can't remember the model only in the early 1980s saw a very faded demonstrator IH tractor at a dealer for routine mainteneance. Since the farmer and dealer coudln't find any paint numbers or info the tractor simply was ran original colors. The closet I've every come to duplicating the paint color AND characteristics was a Rustoleum INDOOR ONLY gold paint. Sure enough ALL the same characteristics showed up when I used it. Years ago my ex-wife and I had an IH 47 baler painted ALL white and with gold and red demonstrator decals. The gold was the same color as the IH tractor demonstrator gold only it didn't fade. One tip to try in a search for that shade of gold is this; The F Series FARMALL tractors when they went from stencil to decals had two shades of gold around the frame of the decal. I can't remember offhand however one of those may be a close to demonstrator gold color.

Now to keep this on topic. I wonder why no one ever paints their Cub Cadets in IH "demonstrator" gold.
 
My starter works just turns the motor a little slower than I would think it should.
 
I converted my draw bar plug aerator to a sleeve hitch aerator. Works great and it is easier to use the hydraulics to avoid the side walk.
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I put the top piece of steel in there to act as a handle for hitching and it forms a straight line from the top of the hitch to the weight tray. That makes the load bearing characteristics efficient.

We tested lifting it with my brother standing on the aerator, so I could put 180lbs on it. (Although 40 lbs of weight on it makes it work good.)

I left the wheels on it, as for street travel, you can lock the wheels in the down position.

PS I know you are suppose to aerate in the fall but my lawn needed it.
 
I called my grandad earlier because I remembered that he had a set of Cub wheel wieghts on one of his old sears tractor and asked him if he wanted to sell them to me. He said he wouldnt sell them to me but told me I could just take them for nothing! I thanked him about a thousand times over! The reason I'm posting this is because I wanted to know what kind of bolts I should use to bolt them to the other wheel wieghts I have. They are also Cub wieghts so I know they fit together. Do I just use the bolts that come with it or should I use a regular nut and bolt instead?
 
I like that gold and red together,that looks really good,nice rig Mick
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Got any numbers on the gold???
Ive never seen the gold until mentioned here!!!
Jason
 
Mick M. SWEET!!!!!!!!!!
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Quick question... Are the little hood decals that go on the top of the 1x8/9 series Cub Cadets hood still available? I didn't see them in CC Specialties site picture. TIA
 
That tractor was at a pull that some of my club members went to . It's not mine. Just posted it so every body could see one painted up in those colors,but, I;ve seen it run and it will hual the mail!!!!
 
I picked up a 104 parts tractor today and was wondering if the steering shaft assembly would interchange with a 100. I noticed the parts number is different. thanks
Also added a 1650 from an original owner. Seems to run really well, just needs a trunion repair. I'll see if i can remember how to post pics.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice on the Calcium Chlorate filled tires, I ended up taking the insides out of the valve stem connecting a 18" piece of hose with a hose clamp and drained them into a couple of 5 gallon buckets. A little pressure from an air hose helped speed up the process. The rains even came last night and I don't even see any wet spots on the driveway where I spilled a little. Now I just need to get a hold of one of the tractor dealers in the area, we have plenty of them, and see what to do with 10 gallons of the stuff.
 
well, the 3 pt followed me home... woohoo!! Turns out a lurker to this site was selling it, he is fixing up a 147, but did not need the hitch... all painted, too!!
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Scott T.-

I hope he gave you the lift block and the lower bracket that I can't see in the picture...
 

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