• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through June 07, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

digger

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
IHCC Sponsor
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
16,336
Location
Park Rapids Mn.
displayname
Digger
Brian J.
You really want us to measure these things out?
biggrin.gif

87451.jpg


James S.
All I ever do is check for continuity if it doesn't click when I flip the switch.
I've had more than one PTO switch bad out of the box too.
angry.gif
 
I've been looking around for shanks and teeth for the loader bucket. We went to an auction this morning and I think I have just the ticket to add some meat to do some serious diggin.
87459.jpg

87458.jpg
 
Timothy - I just took the balance gears out of a 14Hp engine. You can get the lower one out easily, but to get the upper one, you either need to disassemble the engine or split the gear with a cold chisel. I used a cold chisel. Try and put the chisel on the gear on the transition from thick to thin, and hit that thing like you are going to drive the chisel to China. It comes out in the least amount of pieces that way.

I haven't finished putting the engine back in the tractor, but I'll be getting a magnetic drain plug, to hopefully catch any metal particles left over.
 
Charlie, neat set of teeth. Looking at how far they can reach down, I hope your digging doesnt get so agressive that the loader boggs down.
 
Charlie, no way!! Just send me an email with a price on those babies!!! Looking for the tube ID and OD only. Thanks!
 
My uncle sent me a link to a hometown newspaper article about Darryl Schmidt and his articulated cub. Some of you might remember his cub at the Montrose plow days last fall. Nice article, he obviously has yellow fever.

http://tinyurl.com/6ol4xd

87482.jpg
 
More progress on my "K4K" Original and my #1 125 refurbs. I finally got around to trying out the sand blasting cabinet that my neighbor gave to me a few years back. I had to do some repairs to it. It needed new gloves and it still needs a new light fixture inside. I picked up some media this past week. I should have got this thing working sooner, it works great!
bouncy.gif
 
Well, well, well, I guess my little problem with the 149 is solved - maybe. I can't really say because I've created a bigger problem.

I added the inline fuel filter, replaced the condenser and added MMO at 2x strength. It seemed to be doing okay, although a couple times the filter wasn't taking gas in on the tank side - so it died. I'd open the tank lid to see how much was left (since during testing I didn't want a full tank to drain again), and after 15-20 seconds I'd see the filter slowly fill back up. I'd start it up again and continue mowing. Thought I was okay except for that strange occurrence.

So, remember my issue with the throttle shaft, how it's worn down and I wanted to sleeve it or add a bushing... well, those 2 brass screws which hold the plate to the shaft are now gone - that's right, gone! Wondered why at some point it started running full throttle and I couldn't make it changed using the control. When I looked in the carb I could see the plate was not attached to the shaft.

So my engine has eaten these little items - I guess they're small and maybe soft enough that it won't do great damage... Didn't know I needed to torq these things on. I guess that's what I get for trying to be a mechanic.

I was feeling fairly good about it all going better until this little surprise (or "gotcha"). Any advice on how to proceed?

Thanks,
Kent
 
Matt,
Unless I'm missing something on the "Great Wheel Weight Debate", the front A/B/C/SA/SC weights are <u>NOT</u> the same at the Farmall/International Cub fronts. I'm pretty sure the A/B/C/SA/SC weight have three mounting holes.
 
Tom H.-

That's what I've been trying to say all along.

Kent W.-

I think you should pull the head and make sure nothing got destroyed. If everything is okay, I'd locktite the new screws to secure the butterfly valve.

Does the filter refill only when you remove the gas cap? If so, the vent hole could be plugged.
 
Russel, Kraig, The starter-gen WILL run one of those atv sprayer setups. Have been using one on my CCO for several years. You do need to run the engine at speed to keep the speed up on thet generator. As a clue, if you run without the generator at charging speed you will run out of power for the coil.I might be able to get pictures. Thought I sent Kraig some?????
 
Matt,

You think I'll actually find the screws once I pull the head? The engine was running for maybe 5 - 10 minutes.

I'll have to locate new screws, and I don't believe the local hardware store will have that size...

Thanks,
Kent
 
Kent W.-

I doubt you'll find them. You need to check for damage to the piston, head, valves, and valve seats. If you can run a compression check, do so before removing the head. You probably didn't ruin the entire engine, but unfortunately, the head and/or piston may have been damaged.
 
Kent...I've had that happen once, found one embedded in the head. It didn't damage anything too bad but a little time with a dremal to clean the bad spots up, ya don't want to leave any sharp edges...they could lead to detonation, and all was well ever since.
 
The shop I took my kohler to here told me they wouldnt rebuild it for me without putting them balance gears back in,oh well.I went ahead and bought them,gears,bearings and the studs.So I hope I wont have any problems with it.They are a pretty reputable shop around here for cubs.When I droped the engine off there were probably bout 20 cubs waiting in line for surgury including a couple of lo boys.I figure the engine made it 37 years with the gears so juzz do it...
 
Kent,
I had to replace those screws once and the local hardware store didn't have brass screws that size, but they had them in stainless. I put them in with loctite and then buggered the exposed end a bit to keep them from working loose. Seems like it cost 8 cents each for the screws.
 
Kent W
That inline filter needs to be one designed for a gravity feed fuel system, not one designed for use with a fuel pump like an automotive filter. If the one you are using is for use with a fuel pump, it can cause the problem you are having. B&S make several different gravity system filters that can be used.
 
Jerry B., Cool, I'll try the ATV rig running off the cub starter/gen... I still need to build the rack for the rear... thought I'd go by a motorcycle salvage yard over in Huntsville, that carries a lot of ATV stuff, and get a rear-rack (guess a front one would be fine too) off of a 4-wheeler, and then build up (with angle steel stock) mounts to go from it to the frame of the cub, just above the transaxle, where the existing holes are... might should have one or two supports run to the hitch some way or another, with 30gal of fluid hanging that far back... hmmm.... would be interesting to have a front and a rear rack on the cub, off of an ATV...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top