- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Nic, see if this is any help till Kraig gets back to you.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/NF%20Spring%20Assist.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/NF%20Spring%20Assist.pdf
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Archive through June 05, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig,
The picture or diagram you have provided is making that much sense to me. I have pictures of the thing and what in talking about. It is the piece that the PTO clutch pulley will screw or lock into it. Well that piece is on the engine already and does not come off with all the screws removed. Also there is one inside the PTO clutch which I want to use because it's is in much better shape.
The picture or diagram you have provided is making that much sense to me. I have pictures of the thing and what in talking about. It is the piece that the PTO clutch pulley will screw or lock into it. Well that piece is on the engine already and does not come off with all the screws removed. Also there is one inside the PTO clutch which I want to use because it's is in much better shape.
Mark S. ,,,,,,,,, I just have to ask, was the engine running before you removed the head?? If a valve can be lifted out of the block I'd venture to say that yes, something is broken. Did you do anything else besides take the head off? Very interesting.
Nic, hopefully Allen's link will answer your questions.
Brandon, to remove the bearing from the crank you have to rotate the locking collar. There should be a hole (not the hole that the set screw was in) in the collar on the back side of the bearing. Place a punch in the hole and tap on it with a hammer to rotate it. If it does not rotate, try to rotate it the other direction. The collar has an eccentric lobe on it that locks it onto the bearing flange and, thus, locks it to the crank. Once you have the collar loosened the bearing will be free, though likely still firmly on the crank. A 3 jaw puller should get it off with not much trouble. If you do not have a 3 jaw puller tapping it off with a hammer should also work though there's not much room for a hammer to swing. Back to the PTO, the bearing will need to be removed from it before you can install the PTO and bearing onto the crank. The drawing I provided has a cutaway view of the PTO that shows how the bearing is held in place with the setscrews. The point of the cone point setscrews should be visible from the backside of the PTO if they are still in place. If they are already removed and the bearing still will not come out you may have to disassemble the PTO so that you can tap on the bearing from the front side. Or, hopefully someone here that has a better techniques to remove the bearing will post that info.
Brandon, to remove the bearing from the crank you have to rotate the locking collar. There should be a hole (not the hole that the set screw was in) in the collar on the back side of the bearing. Place a punch in the hole and tap on it with a hammer to rotate it. If it does not rotate, try to rotate it the other direction. The collar has an eccentric lobe on it that locks it onto the bearing flange and, thus, locks it to the crank. Once you have the collar loosened the bearing will be free, though likely still firmly on the crank. A 3 jaw puller should get it off with not much trouble. If you do not have a 3 jaw puller tapping it off with a hammer should also work though there's not much room for a hammer to swing. Back to the PTO, the bearing will need to be removed from it before you can install the PTO and bearing onto the crank. The drawing I provided has a cutaway view of the PTO that shows how the bearing is held in place with the setscrews. The point of the cone point setscrews should be visible from the backside of the PTO if they are still in place. If they are already removed and the bearing still will not come out you may have to disassemble the PTO so that you can tap on the bearing from the front side. Or, hopefully someone here that has a better techniques to remove the bearing will post that info.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dennis F.-
Yeah, I graduated back in May, so now I'm home for an undetermined length of time. I'm trying to get a couple of straggler CCs that came with other stuff I wanted sold so there's more room here.
Yeah, I graduated back in May, so now I'm home for an undetermined length of time. I'm trying to get a couple of straggler CCs that came with other stuff I wanted sold so there's more room here.
jfejedelem
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2008
- Messages
- 22
- displayname
- James Fejedelem
I know I am a little off on the seasons with this, but I just bought a snow thrower. I believe it is a model H42 off a 582, and would like to know what has to be changed to make it work on a 1450-1650. Thanks Jimmy
Mark J. Schairer
Take the breather off your engine and you should find the keepers that hold the valve in place. If they were properly installed I bet you might find a broken valve spring. I can`t come up with another reason why the valve would just come out. Let us know what you find .
Take the breather off your engine and you should find the keepers that hold the valve in place. If they were properly installed I bet you might find a broken valve spring. I can`t come up with another reason why the valve would just come out. Let us know what you find .
Kraig,
Thank you so much for breaking it down and explaining it in detail. I did notice the hole that you said the punch needs to go in and had wondered if there was supposed to be a set screw in there. Now I know so i will certainly put your instructions and advice to use tomorrow. Thanks if anymore problems arise I'll let you know.
Thank you so much for breaking it down and explaining it in detail. I did notice the hole that you said the punch needs to go in and had wondered if there was supposed to be a set screw in there. Now I know so i will certainly put your instructions and advice to use tomorrow. Thanks if anymore problems arise I'll let you know.
